I know what a plug-and-play decoder is, but exactly what is a 'drop in' decoder. Any soldering/wire cutting, etc. involved? I assume no body modifications necessary for those advertised as for a specific manf. and loco type.
To me both are exactly the same just different name.
Jack W.
"Drop in" is slang for "plug and play".
In N scale, we prefer the term "Plug and Pray"
Thanks, all, esp. David and TA462. That is what I thought. I have several Athearn and Atlas GP7's in need of decoders, so I know what to be looking for now.
mreagant Thanks, all, esp. David and TA462. That is what I thought. I have several Athearn and Atlas GP7's in need of decoders, so I know what to be looking for now.
I will echo that, we are never too old to learn something new.
TA462Plug and play decoders are just that, you plug them into the locomotives original board and your good to go. A drop in decoder is a decoder that replaces the locomotives original board in the original location using the factory clips to hold it in place.
While I personally would agree with this explanation, and it does make sense to me, I don't think that the manufacturers exactly agree. Looking at the Digitrax website, http://www.digitrax.com/menu_mobiledecoders.php, they show decoders with the 8 or 9 pin connector as well as the drop in boards. They are all listed either under the general catagory of plug and play, or have plug and play in the decoder description. I looked at the NCE website, and it appears to me that they have a similar description of their decoders.
I think it's probably best to look at each manufacturer's site to determine exactly what the board and/or installation looks like.
For the locomotives you mentioned the drop in decoders are probably the Digitrax DH165A0, NCE DA-SR or TCS A6X or A4X. The only caution I would add is about the lights. Most of not all of the locos probably used 12v bulbs. That is OK since the light outputs on these decoders is approximately 12v. However, using DCC they will be full on all the time the decoder is set that way, even when the locomotive is stopped/parked. I would be concerned with heat build-up around the bulb, so much that it might melt the plastic. I would suggest replacing the bulbs with LED's, adding resistors in series with each LED. Alternatively you could use 1.5v conventional bulbs so long as, like the LED's, you add resistors. Or you could use the TCS A6X connection the light bulbs to the 1.5v pad.
skagitrailbird For the locomotives you mentioned the drop in decoders are probably the Digitrax DH165A0, NCE DA-SR or TCS A6X or A4X. The only caution I would add is about the lights. Most of not all of the locos probably used 12v bulbs. That is OK since the light outputs on these decoders is approximately 12v. However, using DCC they will be full on all the time the decoder is set that way, even when the locomotive is stopped/parked. I would be concerned with heat build-up around the bulb, so much that it might melt the plastic. I would suggest replacing the bulbs with LED's, adding resistors in series with each LED. Alternatively you could use 1.5v conventional bulbs so long as, like the LED's, you add resistors. Or you could use the TCS A6X connection the light bulbs to the 1.5v pad.
The terms "hardwire", "plug and play" and "drop-in" decoders are all terms model railroaders use that aren't really clearly defined anywhere in definite, 'chiseled in stone' version...kinda like a manufacturer may call an engine "DCC ready" meaning anything from it having an eight or nine pin receptacle for a decoder, to just having enough room inside the engine to fit a decoder.
But in general use, what David B said is exactly right:
""Plug and Play" is a term for a decoder that plugs into an existing light board. Requires no soldering."Drop in" is a term for a decoder that replaces the existing light board. May require soldering."
I would just add that with a drop-in decoder on say an Atlas engine, I like to use the plastic tab gizmos that Atlas uses on the lightboard to hold the wires in place when I first install the decoder, so I can test it out and make sure that the wiring is OK; but then once I'm sure it's right I go back and solder the wires in place You don't have to do that, but once I get the engine reassembled I want to be sure I won't have to go back into it later to reconnect something that's come loose.