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Blueline Mikado nochuff in DC mode

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  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: Oreland PA
  • 986 posts
Blueline Mikado nochuff in DC mode
Posted by UncBob on Monday, March 23, 2009 5:36 PM

 Boiught a Blueline Mikado with sound that supposedly works in DC mode

 

Does the normal prelim start upsounds OK and the brake sound works but the chuff doesn't 

I think it may have worked for the first trip around my oval but hasn't since 

 

Any ideas of what may be the problem

51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )

ME&O

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Posted by locoi1sa on Monday, March 23, 2009 6:37 PM

 BLI Blueline use a reed sensor to pick up a signal from a magnet on the flywheel. There have been issues with the sensors and wireing. My M1b had no chuff and it was the sensor was not clipped on its bracket. That was an easy fix. Check the harness from loco to tender first. Make sure there are no bent pins or pulled out wires. If thats ok then remove the boiler and check the sensor and wireing. If they check out bad an Email to BLI service will have parts coming to you quickly. Matthew has been very good in the service department there.

   Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: Oreland PA
  • 986 posts
Posted by UncBob on Monday, March 23, 2009 7:28 PM

locoi1sa

 BLI Blueline use a reed sensor to pick up a signal from a magnet on the flywheel. There have been issues with the sensors and wireing. My M1b had no chuff and it was the sensor was not clipped on its bracket. That was an easy fix. Check the harness from loco to tender first. Make sure there are no bent pins or pulled out wires. If thats ok then remove the boiler and check the sensor and wireing. If they check out bad an Email to BLI service will have parts coming to you quickly. Matthew has been very good in the service department there.

   Pete

 

 

Many thanks 

 

How much of a problem is it to remove the boiler  ?

51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )

ME&O

  • Member since
    July 2006
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Posted by locoi1sa on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 3:41 PM

 I do not have a Mikado but the J1 has a screw under the smokebox and 2 under the cab and it kind of slid off at a tilt. Call BLI service and they can talk you through the steps. They are great guys and always willing to help out a modeler.

     Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: Oreland PA
  • 986 posts
Posted by UncBob on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 10:01 PM
locoi1sa

 I do not have a Mikado but the J1 has a screw under the smokebox and 2 under the cab and it kind of slid off at a tilt. Call BLI service and they can talk you through the steps. They are great guys and always willing to help out a modeler.

     Pete

locoi1sa

 I do not have a Mikado but the J1 has a screw under the smokebox and 2 under the cab and it kind of slid off at a tilt. Call BLI service and they can talk you through the steps. They are great guys and always willing to help out a modeler.

     Pete

 

 

Got the boiler off like you stated 

There is a green printed circuit board with I assume the sensor mounted on it 

I checked the wire continuity from the board to the plug and it read ok 

Do you happen to have their number and a person to contact

51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )

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Posted by cudaken on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 7:42 AM

 Bob, there number is 386-673-8900 an they are very helpful as stated. Repair line open at 12:00 PM Eastern time and closes at 5:00 PM.

 Bob, have you tried pushing function 8 just one time? F8 changes the volume, push 2 times fast and it will raise or lower the volume. If you push it 1 time it will kill the engine sound only, but you can still sound the horn, bell, brakes etc. I don't have any of there steam, but my BL GE AC 6000's and SDR-15 F8 work this way.

            Cuda Ken

I hate Rust

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: Oreland PA
  • 986 posts
Posted by UncBob on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 2:37 PM

cudaken

 Bob, there number is 386-673-8900 an they are very helpful as stated. Repair line open at 12:00 PM Eastern time and closes at 5:00 PM.

 Bob, have you tried pushing function 8 just one time? F8 changes the volume, push 2 times fast and it will raise or lower the volume. If you push it 1 time it will kill the engine sound only, but you can still sound the horn, bell, brakes etc. I don't have any of there steam, but my BL GE AC 6000's and SDR-15 F8 work this way.

            Cuda Ken

 

Hi Ken I am operating in DC --don't have DCC 

 

However I called that number and Larry at Blueline  told me  to measure the relay resistance with the mag flywheel insert lined up and off line to check for a shorted relay--Mine was the opposite it read  open lined up and off line --But as I pressed harder on the probe leads with the mag lined up I saw the resisitence drop way down So I put it on the track and it worked OK

 

I guess the solder joint was defective so I hit it with my soldering  iron  --put the boiler back on and it has been chugging like the Wabash Cannon ball ever since

 

Many thanks to you and Pete  for your help

Nice to have friendly Internet HO modeler contacts  

51% share holder in the ME&O ( Wife owns the other 49% )

ME&O

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    July 2006
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Posted by locoi1sa on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 3:03 PM

 Bob

 Glad to help. Thats what this forum is suposed to do. Thank you for getting back with results and the fix. Maybe it will help another modeler.

     Pete

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Maryville IL
  • 9,577 posts
Posted by cudaken on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:50 PM

 Glad to help.

 

               Cuda Ken

I hate Rust

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