Suitcase Connectors..Trustworthy? Decoderpro?

[DANSGRANDPAPA]

Hey Gang,

Getting ready to move, and start the new DCC layout! Most all Locos converted, Digitrax Empire Builder is my system, though when I bought it about two years ago, didnt know the value yet of reading back so I plan on a PR3 and decoderpro (from all I have learned from this site). Question 1, so where do i get decoderpro? Do I have this right, you load it on your PC and load in all your decoder CV's, either by hand as you program or read back from programmed decoders via the PR3? Then this allows reprogramming to the decoder with a keystroke (again, via the PR3)? Where do I get decoderpro?Question  2, do you guys REALLY trust suitcases? They seem hokey to me.

Thanks in advance Crew, I can always count on you,

Doug

 

[mikebo]

 Decoder Pro can be downloaded from JMRI. Spend a few minutes reading the documentation and exploring the JMRI website for info on using Decoder Pro. I wouldn't program a loco without it.

I don't use suitcase connectors myself , primarily because I'd rather solder the connections. Others have had good success.

 

[tstage]

DANSGRANDPAPA

Question  2, do you guys REALLY trust suitcases? They seem hokey to me.

Doug,

IDC or suitcase connectors work fine...as long as you install them correctly.  The ones that I have are notched in the middle so that they cradle each side of the wire when you crimp down on them.  I use them as a transition between my 14ga track bus and my terminal strips and use 18ga stranded as the bridge.

There are those here on the forum whom I do respect that will cast a negative view of IDCs but I personally like them.  Joe Fugate has had them on his Siskiyou layout for 10+ years and claims he's had no problems with them so far.

Doug, if you don't feel comfortable with using IDCs - don't!  Soldering is still a sound and logical way of making solid electrical connections.  However, if you do decide to try IDCs, I would buy the good quality ones from 3M.

Hope that helps...

Tom

[BlueHillsCPR]

I am from the soldering camp and do not use IDC/suitcase connectors for anything.  Lots like them, I don't.

Like Tom says, if they are used correctly, are of the right size for the job and of quality, (3M) they will be fine.  It's your choice in the end.

[cacole]

 Another alternative to suitcase connectors which I always use is a screw-terminal barrier strip and crimp on connectors.  With these, if you need to change any of your wiring it's a lot easier to accomplish if your wire joints are not soldered. 

[tstage]

The ironic thing is that - even though I use IDCs - I do crimp AND solder the U-shaped connectors to my 18ga wire that I hook to my terminal strips.  Since there is a chance that I'll be removing and attaching these from the terminal strips, I like to have both a mechanical and electrical connector at that point.

Tom

 

[jeffrey-wimberly]

 Me trust suitcase connectors? Never again! I used the on three layouts. They worked fine for a year or two then problems started cropping up. It didn't matter how much work was done on them, the same problems would come up again. Now I solder everything and don't have any more problems with connections corroding.

[ClinchValleySD40]

I have hundreds of IDC's, only thing I use.   I'll never solder under the layout again.   All have been in use for years and have had not one problem at all.   Quick and easy, only way to go IMHO.

[fisker76]

 Doug,

I've used several hundred IDCs from 3M and all have worked as advertised; you just need to make sure that wire gauge matches the proper IDC and is properly crimped [very simple].

Visit http://jmri.sourceforge.net/ to download the decoder pro software.

Erik

 

[tomikawaTT]

As you can see, some people swear by suitcase connectors, and other people swear at them.  Count me in the latter camp.

My own wiring is heavily influenced by aviation practices - every wire connects at one or both ends to a terminal on a terminal block, where it is anchored by a nut atop a stud with washers between individual wires.  The wire ends that aren't bolted down are soldered - to a rail, a switch machine or a panel component.  It's labor intensive up front, but absolutely bulletproof - and dead easy to troubleshoot when Murphy comes to call.

OTOH, an aircraft electrician who installed a suitcase connector would be de-certified before you could say, "Improper procedure."

Chuck (ex Air Force QC inspector modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[Stevert]

DANSGRANDPAPA

Hey Gang,

Getting ready to move, and start the new DCC layout! Most all Locos converted, Digitrax Empire Builder is my system, though when I bought it about two years ago, didnt know the value yet of reading back so I plan on a PR3 and decoderpro (from all I have learned from this site). Question 1, so where do i get decoderpro? Do I have this right, you load it on your PC and load in all your decoder CV's, either by hand as you program or read back from programmed decoders via the PR3? Then this allows reprogramming to the decoder with a keystroke (again, via the PR3)? Where do I get decoderpro?Question  2, do you guys REALLY trust suitcases? They seem hokey to me.

Thanks in advance Crew, I can always count on you,

Doug

 

 

1) http://jmri.org/

1a)  Lots of JMRI info/discussion at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jmriusers/  The developers who actually write the code hang out there and will answer questions and provide help, usually in plain language.    

2) Yes, JMRI is a computer program, but you don't need to have a PC.  A Mac will work just as well (or better, depending on your point of view).

3) Yes,the PR3 will allow you to read the CV values from your decoders and save the info in a roster.  You can do it by hand if you want, but if you have the PR3 why bother?

4) Well, it might be more than ONE keystroke/mouse click, but certainly easier than doing it all by hand with a throttle.  And reprogramming is just the tip of the iceberg, so to speak...

5) Same place as before:  http://jmri.org/

2) When sized and crimped properly, which not everyone does, and used in the proper environment, which not every layout is, they can be quite effective.

HTH,
Steve

[cmrproducts]

Suitcase Connectors are trustworthy if -

1. They are installed with the PROPER tool !

2. They are SIZED for the PROPER Wire Gauge that is being connected together !

3. The person installing them has had the proper TRAINING !

4. The environment that they are installed in is free of vibration and excessive Temperature and Humidity changes !

Now with that said -

1. Not EVERY modeler is going to go out and purchase the proper tool - most cases they just crimp them with a pair of pliers !

2. Most modelers do not realize that they make a number of different sizes to connect the many wire gauges together and fewer modelers will spend the time to ask the sales person for a recommendation on the proper connector !

3. When has a man ever read the instructions let alone listened to anyone talking about proper install techniques ;-)

4. Few basements are climate controlled let alone a 2 stall garage! 

Miss any of the above recommendations and the connector will FAIL ! 

While it might not be tomorrow or next month or even next year - it WILL FAIL !

Now if you do not plan on keeping the layout around a long time (years) then go for it but I know first hand that they fail after while.  It took 3 years for our CLUB O gauge layout to begin having problems and I was the one that put in 90% of the connectors.  They would fail intermittently and trouble shooting the problem during open houses with paying visitors was not an option!

Our next layout has ALL connections soldered and we have ZERO problems and ZERO maintenance to the wiring.  We (the CLUB) have finally learned a few things in our 25 year journey!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[DANSGRANDPAPA]

Well Gang,

You have done it again and THANKYOU. Results:

1) The new LO will be soldered at the feeders, but perhaps with a twist. I much like many have litttle desire to solder under the benchwork. I think I am going to try pre soldering my busses with feeders at 36 inch intervals right off one spool and on to another on the other side of the bench. If a feeder is not needed, snip, coat with that hand tool handle goo-stuff and call it a day. What do you think?

2) Thanks for the decoder-pro / PR3 info! I was hoping I had that right.....This is also my chosen route.

Again, Thanks for all the great input, you guys, its the worlds greatest hobby for a reason, the the people (and the toys too!)

Doug

[mobilman44]

Hi!

I just took down an 11x15 two level HO layout which was wired for DC.  I used a lot of suitcase connectors, and checked each connection before moving on.  My feeder wires were # 20, and the block "bus" wires were #18, so there was minimal size difference.  Anyway, they worked just fine for years. 

My new layout will be DCC, and I suspect most of the connections will be soldered, as it looks like the best way to assure proper connections when dealing with #14 bus wire and #20 feeders.

I am not saying the suitcase connectors won't work, but I feel the soldered will be a better connection in the long run.

Mobilman44