just a quick question, My layout will be mostly a yard set in the late transition era where dwarfs are still use as visual aid for switching . How does make them, how does one wire them up for use with dc and how does one control them using peco motor ? how easy is it to wire them to indicator light on control panel has well so i know the turnout is set for the straight route on my panel has well as by looking at the dwarf?
i know, its probably easier in DCC but i remain steadfastly in DC
DC, or DCC, if you want to just use them to indicate turnout position and not actual track occupancy, what you need are some extra contacts on the switch machine. Peco makes a contact set that attaches to their switch motors, but you may have already used them to power the frog. If not, that would be the easiest way to go if using Peco motors, The have 3 terminals. One is the wire and one is connected whent he motor is to the left, and the other when the motor is to the right. You need either lightr bulbs or LEDs and resistors for the red and green indications. One color is hooked to one side, the other color to the other. The center wiper contact goes to one side of your power supply. The free end of the bulbs/LEDs are connected together and go to the other side of your pwoer supply. Throw the switch one way, the green light come son, throw it the other, the red light. If it's backwards, just reverse the outer two wires on the contacts.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Whatsamatta wit you. You can't say dwarfs. They're "vertically challenged". I use dwarfs, oops, low to the ground signals in the yard. I use the Atlas relays, which have two sets of contacts. I wire them to the same terminals on the switch machines. Oregon Rail supply and Tomar make "little" signals, for either bulbs or LEDs. I haven't bothered to put lights on my control board, since I can see all the "little" signals, from the front of the layout, and I'm getting tired of wiring.
You can get 12 volt power transformers at Radioshack, to use for lighting, which takes the load off your transformer. They're only about 10 bucks.
I've got a few of those diminutive signals that I use for turnout position indicators. I use 2-color R/G LEDs. Most are controlled with small latching relays. Electrically, that's what the Atlas ones are, but these can be had for under $5, and work just the same.
Since you've got Peco turnouts, though, I'd recommend the little gadget that hooks on to the Peco machine. It's a single-pole, double-throw unit, which is all you need for these signals. I used one of these for a signal on one of my more recent installations, and it's much easier than wiring up a relay.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
funny you should mention the atlas snap relays, i was just reading up a bit on them yesterday but at close to 10-12$ a pop, doin gmy layout would easily run me into 150$+ range.... i've been browsing 2 website that deal with a situation like mine but the thing is most circuit ( or most peopl) only deal with either on-layout signal or off-layout not both at same time. The other problem i have is a tough time reading up electric shematic and understading what does what in there...
the peco add-on , i've seen at a hobby shop last sunday, wasnt too sure if i should pick them up or not, might do so today, just unsure about how to go to wire them up though
Pretty simple. They are the same as a single-pole, double-throw toggle switch. Take one power wire from your power supply and connect it to the "center" post of the Peco unit. Unfortunately, it may not be the one in the middle, and mine is buried beneath a turnout, so I can't say. If anyone has one out on a table, please give us a clue here.
The other two posts go to the Red and Green lines of your signal, and the center, or common, connection of the signal goes back to the power supply. If each bulb of the signal is separate, then take one wire from each, tie them together and that will be your common lead.
If the signal lights are LEDs, you have to worry about polarity, too, of course, and you should put a resistor in the circuit.
Mister Beasley
I f I can ask, you started one needs a resiter.How do you determine what size do I need? thank you for your time .Oh I am not useing peco switches.
slow train Ed
LEDs require resistors. Incandescent lights (like grain-of-wheat bulbs) do not, as long as you use the right bulbs for the voltage.
LED stands for Light Emitting Diode. A diode is an electronic device that only allows current to flow in one direction, sort of like an anti-backflow valve in plumbing. When the voltage is positive across a diode (from anode to cathode, the two leads) then current will flow. When the voltage is negative, no current will flow. The positive voltage condition is referred to as forward biased. In this state, the diode offers very little resistance, so a lot of current will flow if there is no other resistance in the circuit. This is almost like a short circuit. A LED, however, can't support a lot of current flowing through it, and it will quickly burn out and become a Darkness Emitting Diode, or DED.
Typical layout voltages are in the range of 10-16 volts. With this voltage, I find that a 1K resistor (1000 ohms) works well. If you use a larger resistor, the LED will be a bit dimmer, and a smaller resistor will give you a slightly brighter light. These circuits will use very little power, by the way, so you can use small-wattage resistors, 1/4 watt or even 1/8 watt. If you have larger-wattage 1K resistors lying around, you can use those, too, but the low-wattage ones are smaller and fit better inside locomotives and rolling stock.
You could use a single LED to do the job. There are LED's that change color when polarity changes - one way they show red, change polarity and they go green. You should be able to wire them up using whatever method you use to throw the turnout. You can even get manual ground throws that have connections attached to control signals or panel indicators.
Instead of the 2-connector R/G LEDs which change color based on polarity, I'd suggest the 3-connector ones. The PECO gadget is an SPDT toggle, which won't reverse polarity for you.
How are you thowing your turnouts?
If you are using a switch machine, which kind? Are you power routing any? Or do you have live frog PECO's which feed power from the points?
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Peco motor on peco turnout. no power routing ( insulfrog ). I have 2 of the peco accesrories that hook up to the switch mahcine and i am planning on getting a few more this week end. Id be interested in maybe a little picture of what resistor to LED might look like. how do i determine the power of the LED. I have found that my local dollar store sells battery powered LED reading lamps for ..well a dollar. They contain 3 LED that are bright white. that brings the cost to roughly 30 cents a LED so it wouldnt be too bad if i can get those to work with a resistor
Has anyone ever tried to paint/dye/color LED to make them into red or green? my wife suggested nail polish but thought id see what everyone thinks
You can get LEDs at electronics places for 25 cents or less, colored the way you want. Demar Electronics, for example, sells ten-packs of the 3-lead, 2-color R/G LEDs for $2.40.
ok, well a neat update,
its working, i used a kwik kit (IHC i think) target face, juneco 12 volt bulb, the peco accessory switch and a resistance and a pair of LED but it all works... thnaks for the help