Hi!
As mentioned in earlier posts, I will be rebuilding my HO layout and take the DCC "plunge" early next year. I previously asked about the ease in installing decoders in various locos (I have a lot), but forgot these ........... How difficult is it to install non-sound HO decoders in:
- Atlas RSD 4/5 (#7081- ATSF)
- Atlas RS 1 (8116 - ATSF)
-Spectrum FM H16-44 (81203 - ATSF)
I have two of each, and they run / look nice, but if they are a bear to install decoders - then to Ebay they shall go...........
Thanks!
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
The Atlas locos will need a board replacement decoder like a TCS A4x or an NCE DASR decoder. While you have it apart replace the lights with LEDs with a 1K 1/4 watt resistor and cut the light pipes shorter. I have several RS1 and RSD4. Plus I have done many for club members.
The Spectrum will be a little chalenge if its the type with the split frame.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Agreed, the Atlas units will be cake. That's one I wish I had pictures of, I did just that - this was an older Atlas/Kato unit with the single light bulb in the middle. The board repalcement decoders have a spot to reconnect that bulb, but directional lighting with dimming is so much nicer so I used golden white LEDs with a 1k resistor on each and chopped off the light pipes. Polish the cut end with very very fine sandpaper, and then what I did was use heat shrink tube to attach the LED to the end of the light pipe. To keep the now shortened light pipes in the shell, I used a touch of elmer's white glue - if you cut them short they don;t want to stay up in place properly. The white glue is strong enough to keep the pipes in place but can be pulled out without damaging the shell if you need to - you can also use a 3-pin micro plug (check the RC section of the hobby shop) so you can completely detach the shell.
The motors probably connect to the palstic 'circuit board' with brass or copper strips that get pinched under the thing rods that run front to rear to connect to the track pickups on each truck. Lop those off short and solder some spare decoder wire, preferably orange and gray to follow the NMRA color code. The strip from the bottom of the motor I left long enough to come up to the side of the motor, the top one just enough to solder the wire to.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Note that that particular decoder has current limited outputs for the front and rear lights so the LEDs can be used as-is, with no resistor. That is not necessarily true of other brands of decoders.
I just slip the long copper wire out from under each end by the track power leads. Grasp the connector on the wire and slide the whole thing to the outside and it comes free of the tab holding it. Once that's loose the other end comes off easily. Interesting re-use though. I'd solder, and I did. Also the truck leads. I don't trust them to stay put with friction, not with them pulling this way and that as the loco negotiates curves.
rrinker Also the truck leads. I don't trust them to stay put with friction, not with them pulling this way and that as the loco negotiates curves. --Randy
Also the truck leads. I don't trust them to stay put with friction, not with them pulling this way and that as the loco negotiates curves.
Thank you all for the valued advice. These locos - especially the Atlas ones - really run nice, and I hope to install decoders in them AFTER I do the easier ones first (got to build up experience/understanding).
Thanks,