Gaps in rail joiners

[kasskaboose]

I have tried for 30 min to correctly cut track and join the pieces together without any luck!  There's still a gap between the pieces when they are matched up with a rail joiner.  I filed the pieces down to get a smooth finish, but ALWAYS notice that one side is slightly longer than the other ever AFTER filing and cutting more track w/ the nipper.  Any ideas how to get the tracks to meet up?  I will solder them once I no longer have gaps.

 Cheers,

Lee

[jeffrey-wimberly]

 Soldering is what I did on a wide gap. I placed some modeling clay on each side of rails then filled the gap with solder. Afterwards I filed it smooth and I've been running trains over it ever since.

[mfm37]

 Sounds like you cut it twice and it's still too short.

I have the same trouble. File the long side and it always winds up the short side. I have resolved to get the gap down to no more than that the size of the gap left when using lastic rail joiners. I run NTRAK and quite frankly, 1/16 inch gaps are considered pretty tight on those layouts. Soldering will help,but it doesn't hurt to leave some room for expansion.

Martin Myers 

 

[rrinker]

 Since you're cutting I assume you're using flex track. I cut mine in place. Attach section to end I'm building off, lay it in place, and while it's laying on top of the track at the other end that it needs to conenct to, clip it off with the rail nippers. AFter making sure the first end is securely against the already laid rails. You don't want absolutely tight joints, but you shouldn't end up with big gaps either.

 I only soldered the joints on curves. In fact I soldered two pieces of flex together BEFORE laying it on the curve. 2 sections was plenty for my 30" radius curves, with some left over to start the straight section.

                       --Randy

 

[jim22]

If you're using flextrack, one rail should slide in the ties.  If not and both rails are fixed, you should be able to use a flat file on the long rail to shorten it slightly until they are even.  One word of warning: soldering too many lengths together, thereby disallowing expansion and contraction, may result in lifted, buckled track.  The conventional wisdom is to solder up to a couple lengths of flextrack which will be curved to avoid kinking.  I actually used pieces of curved sectional track to make transitions from straights to curves.  Keep at it - practice makes perfect.

Jim 

[locoi1sa]

   Lee

 If you did not cut square with the rail than they will not meet up perfectly. What I do after a cut is file the bottom of the rail to a very dull point (just a couple strokes with the file). This will make it fit a little better and make putting a joiner on easier.

    Pete

[Hamltnblue]

All posts are good advice.  Another thing you should do is simply practice off-line to get proficient. Start out cutting a little longer then needed then file or nip down until the right length.

 

[Heartland Division CB&Q]

I install flex track by holding it down temporaily with push pins. The I solder the rail joints using only enough solder to hold the rail joiner in place.  I remove the push pins, and I make sure the track is postitioned correctly.Then I use the track nails to hold in place. I move down the line with one piece of flex track at a time. I cut as needed with good quality rail cutters. At turnouts, I also solder the joints before permanently nailing down.

I remove the ties at the solder joints so they do not melt from the heat. After laying the tracks ties can be slipped back under the rail, but it is improtant to trim them so they will not raise the rail upward.

[MRCProdigyrailroader]

I use a dremel to cut rails. Its a lot easier to use, and more acurate. It does give some nasty burns if you touch the rails right after you cut them though.