Wiring track for DCC...same as DC?

[m sharp]

Hello out there.  I am familiar with wiring track for DC, but do all the same rules apply when wiring for DCC?  I am starting a new layout and cannot make mistakes in the wiring without tearing apart a lot of work, so I need to get it right the first time.  I have not purchased my system yet, so I cannot immediately test sections of track out after wiring.  My previous layout in DC worked flawlessly, but I wonder if it's any "easier" to wire the track for DCC control.  Thanks. 

Mike

[jeffrey-wimberly]

 In wiring for DCC the same basic rules apply. My current layout was originally wired for DC with 16 blocks. When I changed th DCC all I had to do was disconnect the DC controller and connect the DCC controller in it's place. Later I installed a segmented system of buss lines beneath the layout that connected with the individual blocks above. For example, when I flip the control switch for block 4 to on, the buss line for block 4 becomes active and sends power to the track above through feeder wires. Buss lines are usually 12 to 14 guage and feeders usually range from 18 to 22 guage. You should have two buss lines for each track, a positive and negative because even DCC has polarity.

[mikebo]

 I recommend your read some of the articles on this site. Wiring for DCC  While the principles are the same your wiring will probably be carrying a lot more current (amperage) so you may need heavier gauge wire. You also probably don't need to break your layout into as may blocks.

 

 

[tomikawaTT]

If you put insulating gaps in your rails the same way as you would for DC, you have it right.  Just connect all the 'North' rail feeders to one bus, and all the 'South' rail feeders to the other.

Providing gaps is a good idea, both for troubleshooting (it's easier to check a couple of feet of track than to finecomb the entire layout) and for signaling, when, as and if.

Turnouts are wired the same way for DCC as they are for analog DC.  Don't let the, "DCC friendly," rhetoric confuse you.  The only possible problems are shorts at the points (back of flange to rail side of open point connected to the other bus) and shorts at the frog.  Frog shorts can ONLY happen with allegedly, "DCC friendly" isolated/insulated/(not so) dead frogs.  Solid, 'hot' frogs never have them.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[nbrodar]

 If you have DC wiring down cold, you should have no problem with DCC.  When I converted from common rail DC to DCC I left the blocks in place.  I simply used on the common bus for one side of the DCC bus and ran jumpers down the terminal strip on the back on the panel for the other side.   For 2 reasons: ease of trouble shooting, and I plan on adding signaling.  I also added on-off switches for my yard tracks.  While not strictly needed, I prefer not to have hot decoders just sitting around.

 Just like DC, any reversing sections need isolated and some type of reversing system (either a switch or DCC auto-reverser).

Nick

[m sharp]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

Mike