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Wiring a Rotary Switch- Diagram?!?!?

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  • Member since
    June 2007
  • From: SLO, CA
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Wiring a Rotary Switch- Diagram?!?!?
Posted by one87th on Monday, August 11, 2008 1:10 PM

OK, so now I have the 3 position, 4 pole rotary switch...Alas, it comes without a wiring diagram!  I am controlling 2 tortoise switch machines on a 3-way turnout with this rotary switch.

Does anyone have a diagram they can email me, or point me to one?  My Google searches haven't paid off...THANKS!

Jim - steamerajim@slomra.org 

Jim Keating SLOMRA President www.slomra.org
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  • From: Ontario Canada
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Posted by Mark R. on Monday, August 11, 2008 4:34 PM

Here you go ....

A,B,C and D are your input contacts and poles 1 through 12 are the outputs.

Position 1 would be A1 - B4 - C7 - D10

Position 2 would be A2 - B5 - C8 - D11

Position 3 would be A3 - B6 - C9 - D12

 

Hopes that helps you out.

Mark. 

 

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

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Posted by locoworks on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 11:27 AM
 Mark R. wrote:

Here you go ....

A,B,C and D are your input contacts and poles 1 through 12 are the outputs.

Position 1 would be A1 - B4 - C7 - D10

Position 2 would be A2 - B5 - C8 - D11

Position 3 would be A3 - B6 - C9 - D12

 

Hopes that helps you out.

Mark. 

 

i suppose it depends on which way the motors are orientated below the point as to what goes where for each possition.  i assume you are fitting a pointer to the top of the switch in a track plan and wish to have it point the direction of the route on the plan??   i hope you have a break before make rotary switch or you will get shorts when you move it.   it is a simple matter of connecting one motor's wires to A & B and the other motors wires to C & D ( what goes where doesn't really matter aslong as the feeds in from the 1 to 12 are correct polarity ). as said in the first place, what wires go where depends on the orientation of the points and the polarity required to the motor. it is just a case of fitting the + and - feeds to the outer 1-12 connections so that at any of the 3 possitions the motors are getting the correct polarity. and also the frogs are getting the correct polarity from the auxillarty contacts on the motors ( assuming live frog ).  it may be easier to view the wiring as 2 seperate points on top of each other starting with the set of blades nearest the toe end ( the in end ) .   this is a lot easier to do than to explain, but hopefully it will all become obvious to you.

  • Member since
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  • From: SLO, CA
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Posted by one87th on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 11:29 AM
Thanks Mark, I'll give it a shot.  Would it matter which two of the 4 inputs I use for the power?  Also, the switch (says it's a three position) has more that three actuall positions, and can turn to about 11 different positions.  Is this normal, or did they send me the wrong switch?
Jim Keating SLOMRA President www.slomra.org
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Ulster Co. NY
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Posted by larak on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 12:46 PM

 one87th wrote:
Thanks Mark, I'll give it a shot.  Would it matter which two of the 4 inputs I use for the power?  Also, the switch (says it's a three position) has more that three actuall positions, and can turn to about 11 different positions.  Is this normal, or did they send me the wrong switch?

No, the inputs should be electrically and mechanically identical

Maybe, these guys come in a lot of different form factors. An 11 position one will still work, just ignore some connections.  Is there an electrical connection for each of the 11 positions or just a shaft detent but no contacts for the extra ones?

The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open.  www.stremy.net

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Posted by locoworks on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 1:56 PM

 one87th wrote:
Thanks Mark, I'll give it a shot.  Would it matter which two of the 4 inputs I use for the power?  Also, the switch (says it's a three position) has more that three actuall positions, and can turn to about 11 different positions.  Is this normal, or did they send me the wrong switch?

right, important point, on top of the switch there should be a few washers of varying types below the fixing nut, one of these will have a tang that goes down through the ring of holes beneath it. it needs to be down the hole that gives the switch 3 positions of movement only. in other words 2 clicks of movement from full one way to full the other. to check the switch is the right type it should have 4 contacts in the centre like the schematic in an above post. im thinking you have a switch like   http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=rotary%20switch&source=15&SD=Y        ??

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  • From: SLO, CA
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Posted by one87th on Wednesday, August 13, 2008 12:14 PM

Yes Locoworks,

The switch looks like the one in the picture.  I will try the tang into the hole like you mentioned.  The switch does indeed have 4 contacts in center, and is a "break before make".  Thanks. 

Jim Keating SLOMRA President www.slomra.org
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • 327 posts
Posted by locoworks on Wednesday, August 13, 2008 3:28 PM
 one87th wrote:

Yes Locoworks,

The switch looks like the one in the picture.  I will try the tang into the hole like you mentioned.  The switch does indeed have 4 contacts in center, and is a "break before make".  Thanks. 

good luck. just make sure it goes in the hole that only gives 3 positions. the other holes are there because the same piece of plastic is used on the 4,6 and 12 way switches and you have the choice of whether to limit movement clockwise or anti depending on which end you start at.

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