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DCC for Model Power N scale 2-6-0?

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  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Nashua, NH
  • 430 posts
DCC for Model Power N scale 2-6-0?
Posted by Cannoli on Monday, August 11, 2008 12:02 PM

Hi All, I'm looking into picking up an N scale Model Power B&M 2-6-0 to start the steam roster on my up coming B&M fictional branch. I realize that these are far from high end models but with my currently limited budget I figure they would be a decent start.

How reliable are these locos? I have had mixed results with Model Power HO locos over the years, this would be my first in N scale. I'm not expecting Atlas or Proto performance, but would appreciate it to run semi decently with an 8-12 car freight.

Getting beyond the first question, how difficult would conversion to DCC be? I'm not looking for sound, just basic functionality.

Thanks,

Jason

Modeling the fictional B&M Dowe, NH branch in the early 50's.

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: NC Piedmont
  • 154 posts
Posted by dad1218 on Monday, August 11, 2008 7:47 PM

         Jason,

     I have the MP 2-8-2. It seems to pull decent, 12 cars on level track with 12 3/8 " radius curves. When I got it I was impressed with the detail.

    As far as DCC goes it depends if you want to control the light. Look at the Train Control System website www.tsdcc.com , I think that is it. They have installation pics of the MP steamers on their site.

         Gary M

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Nashua, NH
  • 430 posts
Posted by Cannoli on Tuesday, August 12, 2008 8:01 AM

Thanks for the info Gary, I took a look at the TCS website. I plan on wanting to control the lighting as well so I'll be following those steps one I pick up my loco.

Thanks again.

Jason

Modeling the fictional B&M Dowe, NH branch in the early 50's.

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: NC Piedmont
  • 154 posts
Posted by dad1218 on Wednesday, August 13, 2008 4:46 PM

    Jason,

    Your welcome. I used the smallest decoder I could find for it. A few recommendations:

     Cut the wires as short as possible, there is not alot of room under the tender.

     If you plan on changing couplers this would be a good time. I had to remove the rear trucks on the tender to femove the shell. Mine had a couple of screws holding it down.

                     Gary

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