selector,
The original poster said he was "thinking" about selling his Digitrax equipment on eBay. To me, that allows us to offer advice, both pro and con. It'd be different if he'd already made up his mind, but he hadn't.
ScottGroff,
Your three issues:
1). Reading CV's - There's only two systems that offer CV readback from Digitrax, the Chief (DCS100 = $226) and the Zephyr (DCS50 = $159). One can also use one's computer to read CV's provided you have something like the Digitrax PR-3 ($68) or something similar.
http://www.digitrax.com/prd_compint_pr3.php
I don't think Digitrax is different from any other manufacturer when they refused to take your DB150 plus cash for a DCS100. If you bought an Atlas Classic RS-11 for $125, then offered to trade it to them plus $115 for an Atlas Gold GP40-2 at $240, I don't think they'd go for it. Most manufacturers don't have the desire or wherewithal to sell used equipment.
For non-functioning Digitrax decoders, I've had some success in resetting them. Usually, if you program CV08 to a value of 08, then the decoder will reset to factory defaults. I just did this last night at my club, and it "saved" a decoder from a trip to Digitrax. Back about 9 years ago, there was a "bad" batch of DH121's, and certain Dx163's have been known to have issues with lead fingers (due to the more stringent environmental regulations for solder). The new Dx165's so far haven't seen any wide spread problems. Decoders going bad is a fact of life, at least at my club. And we've sent back all kinds: MRC, QSI, Lenz, NCE, Digitrax, etc. It's just something we put up with to get DCC (tho' MRC is the worst).
At my club, we send a few throttles back each year, mostly DT400R's. People drop them, smack them, etc., and the chips can pop loose inside. I've had to send mine back once in 5 years. As for boosters and brains, none of the 9 boosters, two DCS100's, nor my Zephyr have been sent back, and that's over a 9 year span. I have had to send back an occasional auxiliary device like a BDL168 or a DS54, but that's only happened once.
2). Consisting - It just takes a little practice. I would start with the DT400 as it's the easiest to learn on, then go to the DT300.
When consisting with a DT400, you have two throttles. The lead engine of the consist goes on the right knob (activate right knob by turning it, press "LOCO", then the address number, then "ENTER"). The engine you are adding to or removing from the consist or MU goes on the left knob (turn the left knob, press "LOCO", then the address number, then "ENTER"). Once you've got both locos selected and running in the same direction, hit "MU" then "Y +". The locos are now MU'd together. To remove them from a consist, do the same above but hit "N -" instead.
When consisting with a DT300, it's the same idea, but handled differently. The lead engine of the consist goes on the right knob (activate right knob by turning it, press "SEL", then enter the address number by turning both knobs, then hit "SEL" again). The engine you are adding to or removing from the consist or MU goes on the left knob (turn the left knob, press "SEL", then enter the address number by turning the knobs, then hit "SEL" again). Once you've got both locos selected and running in the same direction, hit "MODE" twice, then press "Y +". The locos are now MU'd together. To remove them from a consist, do the same above but hit "N -" instead.
For programming, I would use the DT400, not the DT300. It's much easier, as all you have to do to get to programming mode is to hit the "PROG" button, rather than go through the pain that is the DT300.
I'm guessing the reason for having to turn the track power on each time with the DB150 was some kind of safety interlock because there is no seperate programming track. I agree, it's a pain. Be assured that the Zephyr and the Cheif don't have this problem.
Good luck in whatever you choose!
Paul A. Cutler III
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Weather Or No Go New Haven
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