I have several very nice code 70 Shinohara/Walthers turnouts that are pre DCC-ready versions that I'm planning to use for a shelf layout in a spare bedroom. I've got my trackplan ready to go with all the turnouts in place ready to be glued/spiked but before I get ahead of myself, want to make sure I can easily convert them to DCC-ready once they're on the roadbed. I have a few DCC-ready versions that I can compare them to and notice that there are insulated gaps in the rails both in front and behind the frogs.
My question is: Do all I need to do is cut gaps (with a Dremel cutoff wheel) on the frog rails behind the frog, or is there more to it than that? Do I need to cut gaps in the closure rails as well, or is this not necessary?
Thanks in advance!!
drgw5371 wrote: I have several very nice code 70 Shinohara/Walthers turnouts that are pre DCC-ready versions that I'm planning to use for a shelf layout in a spare bedroom. I've got my trackplan ready to go with all the turnouts in place ready to be glued/spiked but before I get ahead of myself, want to make sure I can easily convert them to DCC-ready once they're on the roadbed. I have a few DCC-ready versions that I can compare them to and notice that there are insulated gaps in the rails both in front and behind the frogs.My question is: Do all I need to do is cut gaps (with a Dremel cutoff wheel) on the frog rails behind the frog, or is there more to it than that? Do I need to cut gaps in the closure rails as well, or is this not necessary?Thanks in advance!!
Personally I think the DCC ready versions don't work as well as the older shinohara turnouts in which the frog is not insulated. I have fewer problems with my older shinoharas than the stupid DCC ready stuff. I run proto 2000 SW switchers and sometimes those little guys have problems picking up current through the insulated frogs.
In answer to your question. Gap the rails just like you would normally. Someone may correct me if I'm wrong here, but I think you only have to gap one rail at the closure rails or the one that is in front of the frog.(So 3 gaps and you should be ready to go).
Try Allan Gartners wiring for DCC. www.wiringfordcc.com
Loads of great info for you.
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
All you need to do is insulate both rails that diverge from the frog by placing insulated rail joiners on them. The frog will change polarity according to which point rail is touching a stock rail.
cacole wrote: All you need to do is insulate both rails that diverge from the frog by placing insulated rail joiners on them. The frog will change polarity according to which point rail is touching a stock rail.
Yea, what cake-hole says.....
I think if you compare the pre-dcc and dcc-ready turnouts you will also notice that the switch points are tied together with a metal strap in two spots on the pre-dcc turnout, but use an insulated throw bar and a rail joiner arrangement on the dcc-ready version. This metal strap can cause problems with shorts on a dcc railroad. I believe that this problem has been discussed elsewhere in this forum.
Anyway, although the gaps can be cut with a Dremel-type tool after the turnouts have been layed, or insulated joiners installed if you have the forethought to do that ahead of time, the correction of the metal strap problem is a little more complicated and probably should be addressed prior to turnout installation.
maxman wrote: I think if you compare the pre-dcc and dcc-ready turnouts you will also notice that the switch points are tied together with a metal strap in two spots on the pre-dcc turnout, but use an insulated throw bar and a rail joiner arrangement on the dcc-ready version. This metal strap can cause problems with shorts on a dcc railroad. I believe that this problem has been discussed elsewhere in this forum.Anyway, although the gaps can be cut with a Dremel-type tool after the turnouts have been layed, or insulated joiners installed if you have the forethought to do that ahead of time, the correction of the metal strap problem is a little more complicated and probably should be addressed prior to turnout installation.
Hmmmmm....I think I know what you are talking about, but I've never had that problem. What most wiring books have suggested is to use a micro switch between the points and the frog depending on which way the turnout is thrown. This is usually done with a caboose industries ground throw with contacts. I've not had to use them, but it does make sense. kalmbach has several books that show this circuit that was specifically designed for power routing turnouts.
locoi1sa wrote: Try Allan Gartners wiring for DCC. www.wiringfordcc.com Loads of great info for you.
Dye-toe! Very useful information there.
What is described in many of these answers is "half friendly" it may work for you - particulary on spurs. Full DCC friendly requires pre work and isolates the stock rails and point rails from each other.
I have some "quick and dirty" photos here (scroll down to approximate middle) http://stremy.net/SRA/Tips/Trackwork/Trackwork.html
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Check out Gartners site and Joe F.s discussion of DCC freindly turnouts . Do some of the research and then decide for yourself. I consider DCC friendly to be good old fashioned bullet proof switch wiring.
There are several decisions that you will have to make about whether you need all the aspects of this wiing scheme Live frogs or dead? How wll you throw the turnouts? Will you run small brass steam or older locomotives? Do you have curved turnouts (bigger frog area)? The answers to these questions will help decide which direction you will want to take.
All of my turnouts have their respective points and stock rails hard wired to each other and isolatated frogs that are powered. I do run small brass steam (poor pick up, will stall on un powered frogs). I tend to opt for the most reliable operation that I can get. It is much easier to do this stuff as you build than to retrofit later when you have problems...
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site