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BLUELINE slow motion

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BLUELINE slow motion
Posted by Harley-Davidson on Monday, June 2, 2008 11:49 AM
In a AC6000 Blueline with a NCE N14IP decoder, does anybody know how to get excellent slow motion?. Thanks
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Posted by Last Chance on Monday, June 2, 2008 12:16 PM

Back EMF has alot to do with slow motion.

Examine your CV table for various CV's related to what is called a speed table. Small adjustments to it might give the engine that little shove to get moving at 1 mph.

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Posted by Harley-Davidson on Monday, June 2, 2008 12:28 PM
Last Chance, according the decoder instructions, CVs are the 2, 116 and 117; I changed and rechanged, and re-rechanged it in different ways, but I can´t get a steady slow motion at speed 1 (of 128): or start suddenly and not slow, or start slow, and quickly stops !!! Thanks you
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Posted by tstage on Monday, June 2, 2008 1:32 PM

Doc, 

Do you know offhand whether the NCE N14IP decoder comes with BEMF or Back EMF?

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by Harley-Davidson on Monday, June 2, 2008 1:52 PM
The words Back-EMF or BEMF are not present in the instructions, but NCE claims for a "a superb slow motion" !!!?!
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Posted by Driline on Monday, June 2, 2008 2:56 PM

 doc manago wrote:
The words Back-EMF or BEMF are not present in the instructions, but NCE claims for a "a superb slow motion" !!!?!

I don't think its the decoder but your BLI brand engine. I've got a "paragon" SD40-2 with sound and even tinkering with the start voltage and whatever else I could find, it still does not start out smoothly. My Atlas engines have no problem.

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by tstage on Monday, June 2, 2008 3:22 PM

Doc, 

I'd have to agree with Frank.  The difference between the low-speed response of my BLI 2-8-2 Mike and my Trix 2-8-2 Mike is quite apparent.  Even though the BLI Mike is decent - even after the chip upgrade and some tweaking, the Trix Mike wins hands down for crawling at speed step 001.

If you can't get the response that you want from the QSI decoder, a swap out for a Loksound or Tsunami decoder may be another option.    I don't know whether that will compensate for the BLI motor or not.  The Loksound decoder will need it's own specific speaker.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by locoi1sa on Monday, June 2, 2008 5:32 PM

Tom blueline does not have a QSI decoder.

 Doc try this CV2=12 CV116=2 CV117=20. If it just starts to move and stops adjust CV117 up to 25 to keep it going. If it takes off like a rocket then adjust CV116 up till you get a smooth start and stays going at speed step 1 in 28 speed steps. Its probably better to adjust the CVs on the main with the shell off and put a pencil mark or permanent marker mark on the flywheel.

   CV2 is voltage to the motor at start up Higher the # the more volts.

   CV116 is how frequently the motor gets kicked. How fast the motor gets a jump start. The smaller the # the faster it gets kicked.

   CV117 is how har the motor gets kicked. The higher the # the harder it kicks.

    I adjusted a D13SRJ so slow the Athearn AC4400 was left at Speed step 1 accidently and crawled to the main (about 2 feet) before anybody realized it was moving. 

      Pete
 

 

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

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Posted by tstage on Monday, June 2, 2008 5:40 PM

Thanks, Pete. Blush [:I]  I knew that...but managed to have "temporary mental lapse" during my response anyhow. Dunce [D)]

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by drrob on Monday, June 2, 2008 10:03 PM
I have just dealt with this in 2 Blueline SD40-2's. I put a MRC 1651 in one engine with very poor results i.e. would not start until step 9-10(128) then I put LokPilotV2.0 in the other engine and it starts and runs beautifully at step 1!! Huge difference and no CV adjustments have been made in either engine.
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Posted by drrob on Monday, June 2, 2008 10:06 PM
Quick question. Does anyone have any good references or articles on how to convert older brass steam locos and diesel locos to DCC with lights/firebox flicker etc.?
Thanks
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Posted by Last Chance on Tuesday, June 3, 2008 11:31 AM

 drrob wrote:
I have just dealt with this in 2 Blueline SD40-2's. I put a MRC 1651 in one engine with very poor results i.e. would not start until step 9-10(128) then I put LokPilotV2.0 in the other engine and it starts and runs beautifully at step 1!! Huge difference and no CV adjustments have been made in either engine.

You have discovered the MRC's shortcomings and failings. They make good power packs but have much to learn on decoders.

I have cut MRC decoders from consideration on any engine purchase. In fact, I prefer to buy a DCC Ready engine instead and drop in a quality decoder.

 

Cheers.

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Posted by Harley-Davidson on Tuesday, June 3, 2008 2:50 PM
A friend used a Digitrax deco in a Blueline SD-40, and has excellent slow motion...!!! Now, I´m awaiting an answer from NEC and from TONY´S Trains: I´ll comment here; beside, me too avoid MRC decoder (is a shame ATHEARN use they), thanks everybody.

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