I was contemplating a way to light my structures when a lightbulb () went off in my head. I could take an old, beat-up strand of christmas lights, cut off the bulb holder with long enough wires still attached, and thread them through the layout to a bus specifically for lights.
My main question is would this work? and would it be wise to wire all of my bulbs in series, or wire them individualy?
Gary
My recommendation would be to wire them in parallel and set your power for 2-2.5 volts. Then, when 1 burns out the others stay lit, otherwise you will play the wonderful game of 'when 1 burns out, pull all the bulbs out of the structures and check each bulb' - my experience is that the shorting wire that is supposed to keep the circuit alive when 1 bulb burns out will only work about half the time.
Regards,
John
"You are what you eat," said a wise old man. Oh Lord, if it's true, I'm a garbage can.
Divide the number of lights in the string into 120. So a string of 10 lights divided into 120 = 12 volts per bulb. If the string of lights is 14 lights then it's 8.57 volts for each light in the string. Supply voltage to the string of bulbs, divided by the number of lights in the string of bulbs equal the voltage at each bulb.
120 supply voltage
divided by 100 bulbs
equals 1.2 volts at each bulb.
I would run the bulbs below what the voltage figures at. If your supply is 12 DC I would run two 12volt bulbs in series or 14 1.2 volt bulbs on the same 12 volt supply. By running the lights on a lower voltage they will last longer and not burn as hot either.
BTW the bulbs could care less if it's AC or DC voltage.
Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!
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I run my 2.5V Christmas-string minibulbs four in series on 6.3vac. This gives a nice yellow light, prototypically accurate for the place and era I'm modeling.
If a brighter, whiter light is appropriate (commercial buildings,) I go with three lamps in series.
I have also adapted them for illuminated route indicators. The series bulbs illuminate critical switchwork in the netherworld under Mount Takami.
Since they are only running on 60-85% of rated voltage, I expect them to last a LONG time.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
722 wrote: I could take an old, beat-up strand of christmas lights, ... My main question is would this work?
would it be wise to wire all of my bulbs in series, or wire them individualy? Series wiring is generally not wise. One bulb goes they all go out. BUT in Jr. High I would to run them in various combinations of parallel and series depending on the voltage of the power supply I had available. I always try to use at least 0.5 volts lower than the calculation would say. That way they last for a very long time and they aren't so glarry.
would it be wise to wire all of my bulbs in series, or wire them individualy?
Johnnny_reb wrote: Divide the number of lights in the string into 120. So a string of 10 lights divided into 120 = 12 volts per bulb. If the string of lights is 14 lights then it's 8.57 volts for each light in the string. Supply voltage to the string of bulbs, divided by the number of lights in the string of bulbs equal the voltage at each bulb.120 supply voltagedivided by 100 bulbsequals 1.2 volts at each bulb.
The 100 or 150 bulb strings are 2 or 3 50 bulb series strands wired in parallel. That's why they have three wires on most Christmas tree lights. They're 2.5V bulbs. You're right that it's better to run them at lower voltage, though, and they don't care if the power is AC or DC.
n722 wrote:could I use an old train set power pack to light the bulbs, or do I need a more powerfull source?
Gray made a very good point. If you use mutable strand lights make sure to count the bulbs in just one strand, not the whole string of lights.
And #722, if you have an old computer sitting around check the link in my signature on how I converted a computer power supply for hobby use.
Your buildings would look really trippy if you used the Christmas tree chase lights. LOL
I did see where someone used amber colored string of chase lights all bunched real close together to represent molten slag runoff in an HO steel mill.