I was just going to post this question and found reference to it in grayfox's thread but I'm going to ask it here separately.I'm putting a Lok Micro into my Proto 2000 S3. I've read about the need for isolating the motor from the frame. But I've also read it isn't necessary. Any additional thoughts and/or opinions?However, since I've got the whole thing apart and replacing the screw is not a big deal now, and wouldn't be anyway, one screw and out comes the motor, then add the isulating tape and a new screw. BUT, I've looked at the parts list for the S3 and there is no info about the size/threads for the screw. Does anyone know the size/threads? And, where can I get such ascrew in plastic or nylon or whatever nonconducing material might be available?
Should my installation turn out ok, I'll post photos of the process. I just got the decoder last week and am now waiting for the leds to replace the bulb lighting (and gain more room). The screw is the last question. I think! In grayfox's thread-- http://cs.trains.com/forums/1435397/ShowPost.aspx --I read:Dick,Since there isn't much room under the hood, I have a Digitrax Lenz LE0521W Micro (N-scale) decoder installed in my Proto 2000 S1 and it works just fine. It's not a "silent running" decoder but it's quiet enough.What I like about the smaller decoder is that I don't have to hog out any material in order to fit it in. At least with the Atlas S4, you won't have to isolate the motor from the frame.TomI thought one did need to isolate the motor from the frame with an Atlas S4. There is an NCE decoder, ATLS4. I comes with Kapton tape and a Plastic screw for isolating the motor.MRC has a sound decoder, MRC 1663.Gary
Mark Alan
Mark,
The Proto 2000 S3 doesn't seem to have the same problem as the S1, when it comes to needing to isolate the motor from the frame. I checked the Digitrax site and only the S1 had a "See note" next to it.
However, I did notice something about needing to switch out the headlights on the S3 for 12v incandescent bulbs when using the DZ123 decoder.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Hi Mark
I have a small fleet of P2K S1. I hardwired TCS MC2 decoders in them with LEDs for lights. I did isolate the motor brushes from the frame. I dont know what you mean by the nylon screw. Just the brush contacts need to be isolated not the frame of the motor itself. If the S3 is like the S1 just remove the motor and solder a the grey wire to the botom brush contact and place a small piece of electrical tape in the botom of the frame and that should do it.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
locoi1sa wrote: Just the brush contacts need to be isolated not the frame of the motor itself.
Just the brush contacts need to be isolated not the frame of the motor itself.
There are the key words for ANY DCC installation. The key is that the only path to the motor brushes is through the decoder.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
tstage wrote:Mark, The Proto 2000 S3 doesn't seem to have the same problem as the S1, when it comes to needing to isolate the motor from the frame. I checked the Digitrax site and only the S1 had a "See note" next to it.However, I did notice something about needing to switch out the headlights on the S3 for 12v incandescent bulbs when using the DZ123 decoder. Tom
I've just installed a decoder in my P2K S1 and I didn't remove the earthed the grey motor wire or bottom motor brush connection to the chassie. There is no other electrical path that uses the chassie so I figured it would work OK. It has plastic couplers so consisting (if I ever do it) will not be a problem. I didn't have any 12V bulbs to replace the 1.5Volt ones for the headlights so I run without them until I can get to my LHS. I'd rather use LEDs but I'm not sure if they would work the way the light guides are arranged.
cheers
Alan Jones in Sunny Queensland (Oz)
Alan,
You're fine...as long as you don't hit a short somewhere with your S1. LEDs will work just fine for you. I have a golden-white LED in my S1, with a 750 or 1K ohm resistor.
Thanks Tom,
I hadn't thought about shorts, perhaps I will isolate the frame after all. Did you have to file down the LEDs to fit? Do the LEDs light up the number boards?
Alan J
I'm thinking of using leds for front and rear lights and mount them inside heat shrink tubing.
MA
And, everyone else, thanks all for the feedback.
I just spent a couple of frustrating hours isolating the motor from the frame.
1 Minute to disassemble engine,
2 minutes to remove motor
2 minutes to remove bottom brush holder so I could solder onto it without melting the plastic
1 minute soldering orange wire to brass tag under brushholder.
40 minutes trying to locate brush spring that popped onto the floor.
1 minute cutting electrical tape to the right size to put under the motor
30 minutes reassembling and disassembling until I got the motor to sit properly
repeat above step because one of the universal drive shafts dropped out somewhere in the process.
At least it's done now!
Hey Markalan,
are you going to put the LEDs where the bulbs were or are you going to mount them where the headlights go?
My AT&SF S1 has number boards at the back end on the sides, I'd like these to light up too, but If I heatshrink the LED it won't let out light for them.
I'm planning to use leds where the bulbs were and use the shrink tube to connect them to the headlight lens itself.
Your experience putting things all back together reminds me of the time I took apart an old airbrush--10 minutes, and then took 2 hours getting it back together! But, as you said, "It's done."