Hello,
I want to replace my Atlas switch controllers with toggles, I have been told the Atlas ones can make the switches burn out faster.
What kind of toggle should I be getting and how do you wire? I will be using a seperate transformer for the switches.
thanks
DT
The toggles you want are single pole, double throw, center-off momentary [commonly abbreviated SPDT(mom)] with minimum 3A capacity. Most electronics suppliers carry them.
Wiring is, actually, the same as your Atlas switches. Machine power to center pole of the toggle, wires from the outer poles to the outer connections on your switch machine, center wire from switch machine back to the other pole of machine power.
It's a good idea to have a separate power supply for your switch machines. If you don't already have one (and I DON'T mean the accessory poles on a power pack!) you can make a good, inexpensive one from a 12.6V filament transformer with 3A rating.
Alternatives to toggle switches? Normally-off pushbuttons (2 per machine) or the hot probe and stud system. For the latter, the machine power is connected to a probe on a length of flexible wire and the coil wires are connected to two machine screws on the panel, located where you would put pushbuttons if you were using them. (I, personally, use a stereo plug for a probe, and stow it in a stereo socket that's not connected to anything when it's not being used.)
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Single pole, double throw switch. If you're still using Atlas type switch motors, you'll also need to make the connection only momentary. I never saw an off the shelf double throw momentary in both directions electrical switch, so a momentary push button is needed. A center off switch will work, but just like the Atlas controller, it is the speed and skill of the operator that determines how long power is sent to the switch motor. In spite of Atlas' simplicity, I'm thinking of going to Tortoise and DCC control for the turnouts on the visible portions of the layout. By the time I'm ready to get to track laying, the whole hobby could be different, so I'm not committing to anything yet.
Good luck and remember, electrical goods work on smoke. If you let the smoke out, it won't work anymore.
True Tales from the Legendary Past Department:
This actually happened to me two weeks ago. We had some unexpected guests, and I was showing off the layout. I'd had no prep time, so the best I could do was clear the tools off the track so I could at least run trains. Everything went well, no derailments or other problems, until my turnouts stopped working. All of them. Then, I went away on vacation and only got home a couple of days ago. While I was away, I realized that one of my toggle switches might have stuck, and when I came home and checked, sure enough, that was the case. Kind of a rare thing, but even with toggles this can happen.
If I had wired my turnouts straight to the power supply, I would have found this much quicker, because the switch machine would have burned out and started to smell within a minute or two. However, I've got a Capacitive Discharge system, CD for short. The CD circuit gives you a high initial "kick" to throw the switch machine over, but it then limits any further current flowing through the circuit. So, even though the switch stuck and remained closed, feeding the switch machine constantly, the CD circuit protected the machine. Once I wiggled the toggle and got it back to the center position, the whole system came back on line, including the affected switch machine.
So, this circuit I built for $5 in parts saved me a Peco switch machine, plus a bunch of aggravation to replace it. Peco's mount under the track, so replacing one would have meant pulling up the track to get at it. Moral: Use a CD circuit.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
aet wrote:Hello,I want to replace my Atlas switch controllers with toggles, I have been told the Atlas ones can make the switches burn out faster. What kind of toggle should I be getting and how do you wire? I will be using a seperate transformer for the switches. thanksDT
Over the years I have heard essentially the same issue discussed, even before the advent of the 'Net. Twin coil machines can cause the switch contacts to burn and/or stick, the turnout machine "buzzing". If they do not switch right away, you can end up holding down the switch too long and burn out one of the coils. With a CD supply, at least the coil is not damaged. I am not sure I have ever seen any twin coil manufacturer advise using a CD supply.
Below is the supply I copied. Just connect it to 12 to 24 vdc. I use a 24 vdc wall wart from All Electronics. You do not have to mess with 120vac in your house if you do not like working with that voltage.
Walther's has a commercial unit for about $30.00. Someone not to long ago had one for $20.00 but I lost the link.
http://www.awrr.com/cdsupply.html
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.