Code 83 Atlas snap switches. using the supplied Atlas controllers (the black ones with the blue buttons. Have hooked them up in a row with the supplied metal power connectors. Hooked up the first one to a switch and it works perfect, the way it should. The second controller hooked up to a switch and nothing.
This may be my problem. I have a small Model Power Transformer that some one gave me. 19 Volts AC 0-18 volts DC. I have the DC side hooked up to my Atlas turntable and it works great. I am hooking the power for the switches up to the AC side. Is it a lack of power from the transformer thats not getting thru to the second controller and then on down the line to the other controllers?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, DON
DONFLA wrote:using the supplied Atlas controllers (the black ones with the blue buthes. Have hooked them up in a row with the supplied metal power connectors. Hooked up the first one to a switch and it works perfect, the way it should. The second controller hooked up to a switch and nothing.
using the supplied Atlas controllers (the black ones with the blue buthes. Have hooked them up in a row with the supplied metal power connectors. Hooked up the first one to a switch and it works perfect, the way it should. The second controller hooked up to a switch and nothing.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
What happens if you hook up the second controller as the first controller?
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
I just tried that Jeff and nothing! What gauge wire should I be using to the switches?
DON
The wire can be pretty light, I don't think that is a problem. Do you have a voltmeter?
No, No voltmeter The switch machine wire is light so I think I am using 24 gauge. Its light but I am with you, don't think its the wiring.
If I am reading this correctly, it sounds like you need a CD, (Capacitive Discharge) power supply. Twin coil switch machines need a quick shot of current. Just a simple power supply is not enough. With a CD supply, I use #22 wire to the twin coil machines. Basic CD circuits.
http://www.2guyzandsumtrains.com/Content/pa=showpage/pid=27.html
http://www.awrr.com/cdsupply.html
Walther's carries commercial CD power supplies. Just hook it up to your power pack. Make sure all connections are secure. The large capacitor stores up a charge to about the value of the power pack voltage.
With a push button switch, you "Dump" all the charge from the capacitor into the switch machine. When you release the button, the capacitor charges back up. Many people who have been using twin coil machines have been using this method for many years.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
If he's going to throw multiple switches at the same time a CDU would be a really good idea. But there's no reason he can't throw one at a time with just the power supply.
But, Don, make sure the turnout that isn't throwig moves freely.
Vail and Southwestern RR wrote:I'd try the first controller with the second turnout, and vice-versa. Hopefully that will start to narrow things down.
That is the correct way to troubleshoot the situation. Gather information and you will find the problem. Don't throw random possibilities at it yet.
Karl
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Vail and Southwestern RR wrote:If he's going to throw multiple switches at the same time a CDU would be a really good idea. But there's no reason he can't throw one at a time with just the power supply.But, Don, make sure the turnout that isn't throwig moves freely.
Over the years I have talked with people who burned out twin coil machines because they used just a power pack. To do this with just a power pack, all the wiring and connections must be perfect. I have seen this same issue in model railroad magazines before the 'Net ever came to be. Sometimes the contacts in the switch fuse together because of the current being drawn and burn up a coil on the turnout. It is possible to hold down the switch to long because the turnout does not react soon enough. With the CD supply, this will not happen. The CD supply will always flip the turnouts.
I do agree, make sure all the wiring connections are correct and then install a CD power supply. Manufacturers of twin coil turnouts usually do not mention this issue.
Thanks for the help guys. Will let you know what happens!
I am using the same switches and turnouts. I currently have 5 hooked up to my power supply which is a proto 1000. Hooked up to the ac side. I am using some old solid core phone line that I have a bunch of. I have 3 switches hooked up in series and then a jumper wire to another set of two in series. I hav not experinced any problems (yet) You should really get yourself a volt meter though it really helps with finding electrical problems. My suggestion would be to elimanate all the switches after this first one and start by putting one in at a time you may simply have a bad switch. Take the second one out and put it aside for now and check the rest. You could also make a jumper to by pass the second switch and see it the res start to work. Sounds to me like its a problem right in the switch itself.
Trax21 wrote:My suggestion would be to elimanate all the switches after this first one and start by putting one in at a time you may simply have a bad switch. Take the second one out and put it aside for now and check the rest. You could also make a jumper to by pass the second switch and see it the res start to work. Sounds to me like its a problem right in the switch itself.
Once it is all working as it should a CD unit may be a bonus, but until then it will just complicate troubleshooting. Absolutely go and pick up a multimeter that can measure voltage, amperage and resistance/ohms. Digital or analog, it's your choice. Good luck!
Test each of your switch machines with the simplest possible circuit. Run a wire from your power supply to the center post of the switch machine, and then take a wire from the other side of your power supply and touch it briefly on each of the outer posts. The machine should throw when you do this. If it doesn't, it's a bad one.
Next, add in the controller. If both sides work, fine. Move on to the next controller. Eventually, you can determine which of the parts is good, and which is bad.
I have a bunch of Atlas turnouts, and I've always found they work pretty well without a CD circuit. Peco turnouts, on the other hand, really need the CD circuit, so I use it for all of them. One additional feature of these is that they provide a good "kick" at first, but then limit the current for the duration of the pulse. In the case where one of those Atlas controllers sticks in the closed position, which happens more frequently than anyone would like, the CD circuit will likely prevent the switch machine from frying.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
MisterBeasley wrote: Test each of your switch machines with the simplest possible circuit.
Test each of your switch machines with the simplest possible circuit.
These are my switch Atlas Code 83 switch controllers. Never had a problem with any of them. The only time I couldn't get one to "fire" was at the very outset of the layout construction when I was trying to test them with a small transformer.
I switched to this, which is the same as runs a Zephyr train controller. It sends such a jolt that they never fail.
I use #28 solid telephone wire to terminal blocks connecting with the stranded motor controller wire....over runs of 15 feet or more. No problem.
There is no need for any other circuits or boosters for the Atlas switch controllers.
I've always tested "stuff" in any category(in or out of the hobby) before installing it. the time I've wasted testing is about equal to the time later spent troubleshooting problems but there's so much less aggrevation that I feel it is a net gain. No cussing at turnouts, Christmas lights, etc. My only reccommendation on VOMs is make sure that you get one that tests AC. There are a few that don't and they've shown up in all price ranges. A digital, pocket unit with continuity tone is what I personally use. One really odd unit we sold back at the Shack was only rated up to 50 volts AC but it was one of the higher priced. Fine for the model RR, but useless in other home applications.
As always, read the instrux before messing with it. Better units have fuses internally and on rare occaisions the fuse might be dislodged in shipping. If you really want to go with a higher end VOM, ask to look at the manual BEFORE you buy it. Most of the Shackies are only trained in selling cellphones and couldn't tell the difference between an F connector and a phono plug.
This baby will throw those Atlas Snap switches with no quibble,
I'm running a small layout of 4 x 8 ft. ( HO ) with only four Atlas Snap switches ( code 83 ), run this DS-64 off a Zephyr useing the Zephyrs "Switch" button and then select #1 thru #4 turnout...........SNAP..........no probs. Useing 20 gauge stranded wire.
Wadda ya mean I'm old ? Just because I remember gasoline at 9 cents a gallon and those big coal burning steamers.
Thats exactly the way I have mine set up. I still think the little nothing power pack arn't giving them enought jolt.
DONFLA wrote: Thats exactly the way I have mine set up. I still think the little nothing power pack arn't giving them enought jolt. DON
The tiniest power pack will throw one at a time, or at least buzz a little, so you know te wiring is there.
Vail and Southwestern RR wrote: DONFLA wrote: Thats exactly the way I have mine set up. I still think the little nothing power pack arn't giving them enought jolt. DONThe tiniest power pack will throw one at a time, or at least buzz a little, so you know te wiring is there.
No and yes.
The tiniest power pack will not always throw one at a time. But yes, you will probably get a buzz.