smoked my first decoder

[wheeler]

A few weeks ago I installed a TCS "M1" into a bachman 0-6-0 switcher and it worked like a dream, and still does. After this good experience I bought another M1 to install in an Atlas RS3 and installed it. I did that last night. When I went to program it on my NCE equipped layout, that went well also. gave the loco its' number, and started it up. (I did have to guess which motor lead was + and - so my intention of fwd and rev was backwards) the loco went in reverse fairly fast, and did not respond to the throttle control, then stopped when I hit the e-stop. that was it. It would not restart in either direction. I guessed that it was messed up, and tried to acquire the engine/decoder, nothing.

I tried to insulate all of the wires I soldered during the install, but had problems with the light (of all things) any ideas of what I did wrong?

[UpNorth]

Try and reset the decoder first. Enter a 2 in either CV 8 or CV 30 to reset the TCS M1 decoder if you can.

[wheeler]

The NCE does not even recognize that (this) engine is on the track anymore. It cannot bring up any CV's. When I put another loco on (the) line, and acquire it, it runs like a champ.

[johncolley]

Alas! The plain truth of the matter is: All modern electronic devices have built-in smoke, and if you let the smoke out...they don't work anymore! Sign me...been there-done that-no tee shirt! jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA

[garya]

If all else fails, send it back to TCS.  They have a goof-proof warranty.  I let the magic smoke out of a M1, and they replaced it, even though it was my fault (did not have motor completely isolated from the frame).

Try installing just motor control before you try lights, and test and make sure everything is isolated.

[UpNorth]

The NCE does not even recognize that (this) engine is on the track anymore. It cannot bring up any CV's. When I put another loco on (the) line, and acquire it, it runs like a champ.

it may be toast and it may not. Try and reset the decoder to defaults first. Decoder could be in a state were it will not respond but can complete the reset. Just fire out CV30=2 and power cycle.

Try it (what have  you got to loose) or wait several month for a replacement from TCS as I did (DP2X).

[wheeler]

I took it out, it is physically damaged, so I will sent for a replacement.I need to recheck that the motor is not grounded to the frame, which I did check during install. I will still purchase from TCS, as the 1st M1 I bought works flawlessly, and I like their warranty.

[jfugate]

Is this anything like "smoked my first cigarette" ? 

No, guess not.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

When in doubt place electrical tape anywhere the motor may have even a remote chance of touch the frame and inspect all wires closely to make sure there are no spots where the wire is showing through the insulation.

[jktrains]

LESSON #1  -  When installing decoders always place the loco on the progamming track first and test that you can read CVs.  If you can't read CVs then then is a short somewhere.  Find it, fix it and re-test. 

LESSON #1a  -  NEVER place a new install on full power track first. 

 

This extra step will reduce future headaches tremendously.

 

[wheeler]

I think I found my mistake- the screws that hold the motor to the chassis are/were still installed and they are steel. They are more like wood screws than actual machine screws. I may just leave them out. There are so many variations of the Kato/Atlas engines it is hard to find an install procedure on the net for what mine is.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

If you think the screws are grounding the motor to the chassis, remove them and secure the motor in place with silicone glue.

[ukrailroader]

Hi,

    A better idea would be to use insulating spacers and nylon screws, then the motor would have no chance of movig out of line.

ukrailroader

P.S. If anyone likes reading about faults check out www.hornby.com DCC forums.

[richg1998]

Buy a digital volt meter and use the resistance scale to see if there are any wiring errors. I always check a new DCC locomotive before trying to program it. Oh yes, DCC instructions usually tell you to use the programing track.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&dfsp=32&catref=C6&from=R2&satitle=digital+volt+meter&sacat=58274%26catref%3DC6&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=ZIP%2FPostal&sabfmts=1&saobfmts=insif&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=32&fsoo=2

I bought a spare one from ebay for about $15.00.

Rich