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Ideas for easy disconnect lighting

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  • Member since
    June 2007
  • 196 posts
Ideas for easy disconnect lighting
Posted by Reformed Grownup on Monday, March 3, 2008 1:28 PM

I am in the process of adding lights (DCC controlled) to a couple of my HO locos (BB F7 and SW7). Wiring the cab light on the SW7 is going to be a pain to accomplish - even with the cab removed from the hood. Sooooo...I would like to rig it so that I can "unplug" the lighting leads from the decoder so that the bulbs/LEDs remain in the shell when I remove the shell from the chassis.

 

I see that Walthers has these Miniatronics micro-mini connectors "on sale" for $8.98, but I I can't see spending that muc for 2 tiny sets of plugs.

 

Scale shops offers these connectors, but I can't tell from the pictures whether they would suit my needs or even fit for that matter.

 I somewhere seem to remember someone using SIPPs as connectors, but I can't find them locally (here in the sticks).

 

Does anyone have a "handyman" (CHEAPWhistling [:-^]) solution? Something I might find at Radio Shack ( I know I said cheap...but at least I wouldn't have to pay shipping) or some other local big-box (Wal*mart/Lowes/HD)

 

Thanks in advance!

Richard
  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorful Colorado
  • 8,639 posts
Posted by Texas Zepher on Monday, March 3, 2008 1:42 PM

For years I've just used "milled" IC socket connectors from the local electronics store that look very much like the "Scale Shops" shown in the picture.   I solder the wire to the pin and put heat shrink tubing over them.  For a pair I use another larger heat shrink tube.  

I've also tried and used the Minatronics plugs with various degrees of success.  Generally I am disapointed with how easily they are to "accidentally" disconnect.

Radio Shack does not carry the milled pins anymore. 

  • Member since
    June 2007
  • 196 posts
Posted by Reformed Grownup on Monday, March 3, 2008 2:43 PM
 Texas Zepher wrote:

For years I've just used "milled" IC socket connectors from the local electronics store that look very much like the "Scale Shops" shown in the picture.   I solder the wire to the pin and put heat shrink tubing over them.  For a pair I use another larger heat shrink tube.  

I've also tried and used the Minatronics plugs with various degrees of success.  Generally I am disapointed with how easily they are to "accidentally" disconnect.

Radio Shack does not carry the milled pins anymore. 

Great, so the Scale Shops connectors are something to consider. Thanks.

 

Does anybody have any idea of the sizes of these things? Walthers list "miniature" and "sub-miniature" ....well that's a whole heaping lot of help...Tongue [:P] why not little and littler?

Seriously, anyone with knowledge of dimensions is welcomed to join in. I need something that will fit under the hood of the SW7 (I'm detailing the cab - no room there)...small is good, smaller is better, but tiny it too little (a case of giant dopey fingers).

Thanks again

 

Thanks

Richard
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Pennsylvania
  • 709 posts
Posted by nedthomas on Monday, March 3, 2008 2:51 PM
The Scale Shops connectors look like standard IC socket headers so the pin spacing would be (.100) inches. Ten pins to the inch. Hope this helps.
  • Member since
    June 2007
  • 196 posts
Posted by Reformed Grownup on Monday, March 3, 2008 2:55 PM

 nedthomas wrote:
The Scale Shops connectors look like standard IC socket headers so the pin spacing would be (.100) inches. Ten pins to the inch. Hope this helps.

That does help - I'm assuming that's "miniature", and that "subminiature" might equate to "painfully small"?

Thanks

Richard
  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: East Granby, CT, USA
  • 505 posts
Posted by jim22 on Monday, March 3, 2008 9:35 PM

You would need a few of them, but I used solid telephone wire and computer jumper blocks.  Push the ends of the wires you want to connect into the same block.  In my case, I used one to connect rail power to a decoder so I could disconnect it from a second decoder in the same engine for programming.  Cost: $0 if you have a few scraps of wire and a handful of jumper blocks.

Jim 

  • Member since
    November 2007
  • 1,089 posts
Posted by BlueHillsCPR on Tuesday, March 4, 2008 4:43 AM

These might work.

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83858

Another possibility would be the pin connectors like those found in computers to connect front panel displays, speakers, etc. to the motherboard.  Just throwing ideas around. 

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