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DCC decoders for Athearn locos

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DCC decoders for Athearn locos
Posted by chief401 on Saturday, February 16, 2008 10:31 PM

I am beginning to upgrade some of my Athearn locos that are quik-plug equipped.  I run a small DCC with nothing fancy.  I wanted to get some reccomendations on a reasonably-priced decoder.  I believe that these should be 9-pins.

 Thanks.

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Posted by tigerstripe on Sunday, February 17, 2008 8:28 AM

NCE D13SRJ, cheap & excellent slow speed performance

 

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Posted by simon1966 on Sunday, February 17, 2008 8:35 AM

http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoder/T1.html

 

The TCS T1 with their new auto BEMF function for incredible low speed control.

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

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Posted by WSOR 3801 on Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:16 PM
Lenz and Digitrax also make 9-pin decoders. I have some Digitrax and TCS. The NCE ones don't have the plastic covering over them, so I usually don't use them. Too many things to short out on. I prefer the TCS so far.

Mike WSOR engineer | HO scale since 1988 | Visit our club www.WCGandyDancers.com

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Posted by Cannoli on Sunday, February 17, 2008 11:13 PM
I use Digitrax DH123 decoders in mine.

Modeling the fictional B&M Dowe, NH branch in the early 50's.

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Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Monday, February 18, 2008 8:46 AM
The Digitrax DZ123 or DZ125 will also work and being so small they will fit almost anywhere and you won't have to lose the superweight in the F units.

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Posted by jktrains on Monday, February 18, 2008 9:07 AM

 jeffrey-wimberly wrote:
The Digitrax DZ123 or DZ125 will also work and being so small they will fit almost anywhere and you won't have to lose the superweight in the F units.

Let's take a moment and read the original post.  Don't be so quick to jump in with a reply, one which has inaccurate information in it.  He has an Athearn with a 9 pin receptacle.  The Digitrax decoders mentioned above are NOT 9 pin decoders.  They are hardwired decoders that would involve removing the factory circuit board.

Either use the NCE decoder (DA13SRJ) referenced in an earlier post or a Digitrax decoder such as a DH123D or DH163D which have a 9 pin built in to the decoder.

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Posted by New Haven I-5 on Monday, February 18, 2008 10:58 AM
 simon1966 wrote:

http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoder/T1.html

 

The TCS T1 with their new auto BEMF function for incredible low speed control.

Get thee TCS T1 or a Digitax DH123P or DH123PS.

- Luke

Modeling the Southern Pacific in the 1960's-1980's

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Posted by Johnnny_reb on Monday, February 18, 2008 11:18 AM

 Cannoli wrote:
I use Digitrax DH123 decoders in mine.

Anyone use the (DHAT) "Digitrax 9 pin harness with no-solder connections for Athearn Standard Locomotives" before?  Its suppose to let you install one of their decoders in a Athearn's locomotive without having to solder any connections. Or any "Digitrax" decoder with a "AT" as the last two digits of the part number in a Athearn's loco?

I would like to know how it fits and how well it installs?

As both of my Athearn's loco's are none DCC ready (no receptacle). They are both about eight years old.

Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!

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Posted by Cannoli on Monday, February 18, 2008 12:14 PM
I've used the DH123AT in all my blue box locos and even a couple of RTR's that don't come DCC equiped without issue. They fit very well and make installation a breeze, no soldering required, just make sure to isolate the motor from the frame. I do this by placing a piece of electrical tape over the place on the frame where the motor normally comes into contact with it. When removing the motor clips, be sure not to loose track of the motor brushes and brush springs, when removing the clips, the springs have a tendancy to jump right out and can be lost easily, this happend to me with the first GP9 I tried to convert. Thankfully I had another non functional unit I was able to get the spare parts from.

Modeling the fictional B&M Dowe, NH branch in the early 50's.

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Posted by Johnnny_reb on Monday, February 18, 2008 10:56 PM

 Cannoli wrote:
I've used the DH123AT in all my blue box locos and even a couple of RTR's that don't come DCC equiped without issue. They fit very well and make installation a breeze, no soldering required, just make sure to isolate the motor from the from on older locos. I do this by placing a piece of electrical tape over the place on the frame where the motor normally comes into contact with it. When removing the motor clips, be sure not to loose track of the motor brushes and brush springs, when removing the clips, the springs have a tendancy to jump right out and can be lost easily, this happend to me with the first GP9 I tried to convert. Thankfully I had another non functional unit I was able to get the spare parts from.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Johnnny_reb Once a word is spoken it can not be unspoken!

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