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Weathering
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<br />Gap: <br /> <br />You don't say what scale you are working in...it does make a difference. I work in HO and the following seems to work for me. <br /> <br />First, wa***he car, assuming it is prepainted plastic or some other non-wood, you want it clean of all oils or other contamination which will make it difficult for pigments to stick. <br /> <br />Second, give the car a LIGHT spray of dullcote or matte finish. The aim is to provide a 'toothy' surface for the coloring. <br /> <br />Third. brush on whatever mixture of colors you want. <br /> <br />Fourth, again spray lightly with dullcote to set the weathering powder. If you are using a spray can use short bursts and be far enough from the surface to minimize the blowing effect of the propellent. If you are using an air brush use the lowest air pressure which will atomize the material you are spraying. In either case begin spraying first and move the spray over the model, ending having moved the spray off the opposite end of the model. I like to use a slight angle rather than straight at the surface. The idea is to cover the model in several passes with the least amount of 'wind' to blow the powder off the model. Do not over-wet the surface. <br /> <br />You may need/want to make several applications to achieve the amount of weathering for a particular project. Its best to use less rather than more. <br /> <br />Rule of thumb: When you don't think you have enough weathering set the car aside for a day or two and then look at it. Its usual to change your mind and realize you have done enough. Remember you can always add later. Its much more time consuming to take weathering off. <br /> <br />I like to weather the trucks separately from the car, using small detail brush work and a final spray of grime with an admixture of whatever the prevailing dirt color is on your road. <br /> <br />With practice you will shortly see the difference. <br /> <br />Good luck <br /> <br />Randy <br />
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