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1900 - 1950 engines
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Darrell: <br /> <br />Bowser is good for detail and fine running if you're willing to take the time and assemble them the way you should -- there's an almost endless variety there for Pennsy engines and a handful USRA types. You can also hire one of half a dozens guys that will custom build exactly what you want from Bowser kits and they will make you happy. <br /> <br />These same rebuilders can take a Rivarossi and make it a respectable model. For the $90 cost of a Rivarossi Heavy 4-6-2 and shipping, I had one gentleman completely redetail it for the Erie and the model is 95 percent what you can see and 90 percent when you turn it over. My total cost, purchase price to detailing was about $750. <br /> <br />That gave me a satisfying model to start eyeballing everytime I start a new project. It gives me something to look up to and beat one of these days. <br /> <br />Bachman is all plastic and pretty good on detail, but mostly made in China. Broadway Limited are die-cast with nearly all the bells and whistles you can find in Steam Locomotive Cyclopedia drawings. But they're not date specific. <br />It all depends on how anal retentive you are. <br />I recommend making sure your steam models have a metal frame/chassie ... old timers swear by them that they'll last longer, be easier to repair and cost you less heartache in the long run. <br /> <br />I also endorse orsonroy's sentiment for really good resin kits, Furnaro and Camerlengo and the like. Don't forget, you might also like wood kits, check out Ye Olde Huff and Puff and LaBelle Woodworkers models ... or something like that. They're good kits at reasonable prices. <br /> <br />For stand-by easy knock-off I really like Accurail in freight. They are cheap, accurate, easy to assemble, easy to weather, easy to modify prototypically and they're made in the USA... Bowser too, but they're mostly ready to run. <br /> <br />Good luck and welcome back. <br />SMS <br /> <br /> <br /> <br />
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