I have a pair of PRR Bachmann Proto 2000 GP9s that I have added trainphone antennae to a few years ago. I know the "Brunswick Green" color Bachmann used is a little too green and not dark enough to truly be DGLE. But I didn't then and don't now think it is far enough off to warrant repainting and redecaling.
And, recently I acquired another PRR unit that I have been modifying the shell to convert it into a B unit using the HI-Tech Details kit.
Not wanting to get into a discussion of what color DGLE is, I'm looking for help matching the color of the "Brunswick Green" paint applied to the Bachmann models. After fitting the 5 pieces (2 sides, 1 top, and 2 walkway decking) to the model but before cementing them in place, I'm planning on painting them hopefully to match the existing Bachmann paint. I have Scalecoat PRR DGLE spray paint, and also a jar of Floquil Brunswick Green paint that I have tried on a couple pieces of scrap styrene, but they are both significantly darker than the Bachmann color, probably a pretty close match to the actual DGLE PRR used. But both are too dark to be acceptable.
I'm hoping someone has a good substitute or maybe a "formula" they have developed to match the Bachmann color. It doesn't have to be exact, as I'm thinking a little weathering might hide a small difference. But I just don't want to repaint and decal all 3 locos with DGLE.
Thanks for any help or suggestions,
Rummy
I think I would just paint the entire new engine. Prototype engine color varied all over the map from new to very faded and dusty looking. If it comes out darker just say it was just shopped and repainted. Lighter it will soon be in for maintenance and repainting by the PRR.
Speaking as a one-time Pennsy modeler, and as someone who regards factory paint/lettering jobs as being so much better than what I can do that it is worth going through effort and putting up with compromise to "save" them if possible, I'll put in my two cents worth.
First PRR modelers have always struggled with this. Guys who used actual Pennsy paint chips were not satisfied once they saw it under typical indoor layout lighting. Some used black and called it a day, or used greenish weathering powders to catch the look they were after (surprisingly effective by the way). Others decided to make it slightly more obviously green than the actual Pennsy shade and Bachmann seems to have gone that route.
Back in the day Floquil's grimy black had enough green in it to almost be perfect.
Not identical but perhaps close enough to be used and let weathering carry the day is RustOleum's rattle can Camouflage color "Deep Forest Green." They also make an Army green that I think is far too green and greener than Bachmann used. Deep Forest Green is a pretty darn dark green. Colors on the plastic can lids are never 100% to be trusted but if it possible to take a part of the locomotive in your pocket (is the cab a separate casting?) and hold it against the can lid you can decide. Since the lighting in the store is likely brighter than your basement, but perhaps is still flourescent lighting which does shift colors a bit, you can at least compare it to Bachmann even if it is not a "real" PRR shade. But the match will never be exact - again weathering can cover a multitude of "sins."
Dave Nelson
I've recently been working on a covered platform for my train station in Dunnville...
...and wanted to paint the ironwork the same colour as the doors and windows on the station. It's been some years since the station was built, and I couldn't recall the particular colour used, but it likely would have been a Pollyscale colour. While I have lots of Pollyscale paint still on-hand, and several variations of "green", none were anywhere close to what I needed.
Not too long ago, I built and painted a Bowser A-5 for a friend, using Pollyscale DLGE, and had some of it left over. I poured some into a clean paint bottle, then added some Pollyscale Dark Green or perhaps Signal Green, stirred them together and applied some to a piece of styrene. After a few adjustments...little more of this, little less of that, and I had a pretty decent match.
If you have a green of some shade on-hand, you should be able to "adjust" it into a close approximation of of the locos you already have in that colour. I usually mix colours using what I call the "brushload method": put 2 or 3 brushloads of green on a piece of plastic or metal, then simply wipe the brush with a paper towel and add a brushload of black. Use the brush to mix the colours, then decide what you think needs to be added next. I have had, almost always, pretty good results using this method, and with a little practice, I'm sure that pretty-well anybody who's not colour blind could get similar results.When you think that you're close to the needed colour, brush a little on a clean surface and let it dry, or, if it's a water-based paint, brush it on one of the locos that's the colour you're trying to match, and see how close you're getting - it should wipe off easily.
As has been mentioned, it doesn't necessarily have to match exactly, as each loco's colour would have been affected by the different conditions around it and the elapsed time since it was last-painted.
While this photo of the not-yet-finished platform doesn't show the colour all that well, the paint on the elevator building's door is a very close match to the green used on the station's doors and windows.
Wayne
The perfect PRR color is grimy black with 3-4 drops of DGLE.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
It might help if you could tell us what you have. Is it a Proto 2000 or a Bachmann engine?
oldline1
Bachmann.... hah!!! where did I get that? Of course it is a LIFE-LIKE Proto 2000. I was just testing to see who was really paying attention! LOL
Anyway, all good suggestions, really. But I opted to try the trial-and-error mixing my own paint to match the LIFE-LIKE PRR Brunswick Green paint. And... it was very successful. It was something like 2:1 Floquil Depot Olive to Floquil PRR Brunswick Green. After determining the mix, I mixed up a small batch and airbrushed the parts. Then fitted them in place and a little cement, and it now looks great!
Thanks to all who gave suggestions. As you can tell, that was my first attempt at mixing my own paint to match, and it was no big deal. ;)
Johnnypopper...that was my first attempt at mixing my own paint to match, and it was no big deal.
I'm glad to hear that you gave it a try, and even happier to hear that you had good success.