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The 'Merchanr Row' buildings from Walthers would be appropriate from the early 1900s up to present day (except in Los Gatos, CA because they came tumbling down sorta after a bad quake a number of years ago). Also, buildings from DPM, City Classics, IHC (some), and Smalltown USA would be appropriate for the same time span. Like 'Jetrock said, the type of business located in a paricular building may have changed but the building is still there, either restored (sometimes over done in brighter colors, etc.), maintained, but drab looking, poorly maintained, or close to condemnation. Consider indicating a building that has been demolished in between two other buildings, with eveidence that, at on time, a building was attached to the side(s) of adjacent buildings. As far as operations are concerned, consider what "Jetrock" said - he gave you good advice. Leave the door open for incorporating the paperwork of operations after you tire of just running trains in circles. If you select an interesting trackplan, it should lend itself to changes-such as incorporating 'operations' if you later decide to. . . Select an operations orientated track plan for your layout - in town switching layouts w/ complex city trackage in between buildings are good candidates that can even be incorporated into a larger layout someday when your railroad expands beyond your town's limits. You should be still able to incorporate a continuous loop in such a track plan - consider hiding a portion of it behind taller structures, obscured by trees, and/or deep cuts, or even by a partial divider or backdrop. There is an excellent layout in Kalmbach's "Great Model Railroads 2004" on pgs 34-39 that should give you some great ideas. Look at some of John Armstrong's smaller track plans. You might consider taking a portion of your modeling budget and purchase one of his trackplanning books. My favorite of his publications is "Creative Layout Design", and although it features more large layouts than smaller ones, the principles of good design are stressed and applicable to any size layout. As far as motive power, do a bit of research and select engines that were used during the era you are modeling. Small switching engines, esp diesels like GE 44 tonners, Alco S1 thru S4s, EMD SW 900, 1200s, etc. are good because you won't have to turn them like you would steam engines, unless you don't mind running an 0-6-0 or 0-6-0T backwards, which the railroads always did if needed. If you go for steam, make sure it has operating couplers at both ends, or you won't be able to switch with it. Good buys on Proto 1000 and 2000, Spectrum, Atlas, and Athearn are always available from Standard Hobby, Trainworld and others. Look for their closeouts and you'll save a lot of money. Remember small engines, and 36foot and 40 foot freight cars make a layout look larger ! For a passenger train, consider a single car gas electric - Walthers has a good one (a 60' EMC powered unit) I got mine for $21.99 from Trainworld on a close out. It lists for $59.95. You can always add an inexpensive shorty coach as a trailer behind the gas electric. Again, a short train will seem more in keeping w/ a smaller layout. And do yourself a favor, install Kadees on everything even if it came w/ another brand of knuckle couplers. You will never regret that decision. Don't even think you'll need the expense of DCC at this time; you can always convert later if you expand your layout. Again, good luck to you. BILL
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