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I recently finished a 15 stall Haljan roundhouse. The floor has openings where it should be even accross. I filled them in with plaster. I also made inspection pits for all the stalls however it was typical for some roundhouses to only have a few stalls with pits. If you want to detail the interior don't use the window glazing that comes with the kit. You can't see through it clearly. The rear walls don't line up too well either but I built a machine shop / office / parts crib / loading dock on the rear of the roundhouse which solved that problem and looks cool. If you are building anything larger than three stalls, the last wall panel may have a gap. They don't show it in the instructions, but if you do use the extention to extend the track, you must cut the floor and the windows out of the rear wall panel to extend the track. If you are using a Haljan turntable, the extended stall will be longer than the bridge. My thought on that is, why have an extended stall for a long locomotive if it won't fit your turntable. The extention would be more convincing as a machine shop anyway. You will have to make a floor for it and figgure out how to make the doors open and close. Roundhouses were used mainly for light repairs, maintenance and engine storage. Heavy repairs went to the back shop. There is no room in the model to include an overhead crane like the prototype. I also installed 48 light bulbs and, when lit, they draw more than two and a half amps! I did a lot of searching for photos of roundhouses. A book called "Southern Railway's Spencer Shops 1896 - 1996" (TLC publishing) had some information and a few photos. I have some videos that showed some interior views but roundhoues were dirty, dark even in daylight and dimly lit at night. They didn't have the high intensity lighting like today. <hr noshade size="1"> p.s. I forgot to mention, if you use the pieces that comes with the kit that hold the door and hindges in place on the front wall panels, the back of panel / door assembly abutts the girder and will not align vertically with the foundation, making it overhang from the floor on the outside. I cut and fitted strips of styrene to hold the hindges in place. Be careful not to glue the hindge. Test fit each panel assembly. The back of the wall panel, and not the door hindge retainer, must abutt the girder. The bricks should look like they are sitting on the foundation. This also made it eaiser to assemble the building.
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