JPM335 wrote: Grab the headlight, the whole housing not the LED, and pull up while wiggling it a little. It pulls up out of the boiler.
Grab the headlight, the whole housing not the LED, and pull up while wiggling it a little. It pulls up out of the boiler.
Got it, thank you. Not to crazy about the monster chunk of lead in the enginners cab area. When I get my milling machine I will taker care of that.
Decoder was a DZ123, no problem wiring it at all. Used the LED and resistor from the existing headlight. Looking up photo's to see if they had a tender lights and what design it was.
Take you time and decoders area snap to solder.
Ed the decoder game as I call it is a matter of the correct tools and the ability to solder a clean joint.
All decoders (simple ones like the DH123) go in the same:
1. Take apart the loco per the Mfg instructions.
2. Identify the feeder wires from the pick ups to the motor.
3. Clip the wires and isolate the motor from the frame. (need a VOM for this part)
4. Get a 25 watt soldering iron and some .015 dia resin core solder.
5. Get some LEDS with resistors for the lights OR as I do get the ready to go Grain-O-Rice bulbs from Micro Mark.
6. Follow the wiring diagram that comes with the decoder.
The things you must have to install a decoder:
A, PATIENTS this is not easy.
B: Shrink Tubing on EVERY joint.
C: A good pair of very fine wire cutters
D: Double back tape to anchor the decoder
E; A cradel of some type to hold the loco in any postion you need to solder. Foam one from Micro Mark is $12.00 I think.
F: If you are as old as I am a Magnification system that is hands free.
G: The 25 watt Soldering Iron with a stand and tip cleaning sponge.
H: A very good skill with the soldering iron. Heat will destroy the decoder.
A photo essay of an installtion is only good for that brand loco. The basic information here is all you need to tackle a decoder. It tool me 2 hours for my first one now I can do a basic on an easy model in about 30 min. I just finished tha IHC 0-8-0 which tool me 3 hours because of the fabrucation and cutting of the model to make it fit.
I am doing an IHC Camel Back and I have been at it for 1 housr and it is stll not apart far enough to work on it. The instruction do not help taking the boiler apart to get to the front light which must be changed out.
TheK4Kid wrote: JPM335 wrote: I have done a few IHCs, 2 4-6-2s, a 2-6-0, and at least one more, cant remember the wheel arrangement on that. All of them were pretty straightforward. What I have always done is make a slot right above where the drawbar meets the loco just big enough for all the wires. Remember to make a slot not a hole, the shell can slip off the wires if you use a slot, but the with a hole you are pretty much stuck. With the tender I enlarged the existing hole into another slot. Its a simple solution and you dont notice either slot with the tender and engine coupled. Good luck. I would like to put decoders in several of my steamers, but it would be nice if someone who is experienced at it could do a thread on here with pictures, showing a step by step method.Thanks. Ed
JPM335 wrote: I have done a few IHCs, 2 4-6-2s, a 2-6-0, and at least one more, cant remember the wheel arrangement on that. All of them were pretty straightforward. What I have always done is make a slot right above where the drawbar meets the loco just big enough for all the wires. Remember to make a slot not a hole, the shell can slip off the wires if you use a slot, but the with a hole you are pretty much stuck. With the tender I enlarged the existing hole into another slot. Its a simple solution and you dont notice either slot with the tender and engine coupled. Good luck.
I have done a few IHCs, 2 4-6-2s, a 2-6-0, and at least one more, cant remember the wheel arrangement on that. All of them were pretty straightforward. What I have always done is make a slot right above where the drawbar meets the loco just big enough for all the wires. Remember to make a slot not a hole, the shell can slip off the wires if you use a slot, but the with a hole you are pretty much stuck. With the tender I enlarged the existing hole into another slot. Its a simple solution and you dont notice either slot with the tender and engine coupled.
Good luck.
Look at www.tcsdcc.com . TCS has lots of installations with pictures and captions on how they did it. Looking at some of them can give you a basic idea of what to do, and most decoders will tell you in the manual what wire needs to go where.
JPM335 wrote:I have done a few IHCs, 2 4-6-2s, a 2-6-0, and at least one more, cant remember the wheel arrangement on that. All of them were pretty straightforward. What I have always done is make a slot right above where the drawbar meets the loco just big enough for all the wires. Remember to make a slot not a hole, the shell can slip off the wires if you use a slot, but the with a hole you are pretty much stuck. With the tender I enlarged the existing hole into another slot. Its a simple solution and you dont notice either slot with the tender and engine coupled. Good luck.
mrgstrain wrote: claycts; what brand of decoder are you installing? I will be doing one also but not shure which decoder to use. Thank 's Larry
claycts; what brand of decoder are you installing? I will be doing one also but not shure which decoder to use. Thank 's
Larry
I use Digitrax for this one a DH123. On the Camelback it will be a DZ123 due to space. These are soild decoders, no frills, can be found for around $15.00.
I use decoder pro and they program very well. They also have a transponder funtion.
Thank you, JPM335 I am Slotting Away.
This decoder installation is not that bad to all who read this thread. It is all in understanding what wire solders to what connection and ASKING when you get lost or have a doubt.
Since I did so well with the RDC I will push my luck.
Decoder must go in the tender (DH123) it is a solder job that is no big problem. NOW the question routing wires from the tender to the engine so you can remove the shell at a later date.
It looks like surgery under the firebox so you can route the Red, Blue, Black and White to the engine. and the Grey and Orange from the motor to the tender (existing wire from the motor is long enough so you can make the connectioin in the tender. These SHOULD fit where they came from between the tender and the Loco.
Anybody done one? A how to like I got for the RDC woould be GREAT
Thank you