Wiring control panel with lights

[Anonymous]

Hello all
I am using on off push buttons from radio shack to turn on and off my engine service tracks. I can run engines in and shut off power to the track so the engines don't sit and idle. I have been trying for days to get bulbs to lite on the control panel when the tracks are powered. Just can't get the right wiring arrangement. I know I could probably just run a pair of wires to each track and they would come on when power is applied. But I'm sure there is a way to power the lights off the push buttons. Can anyone suggest a web site where there might be a schematic to show how to do this? Or a book?
Thanks
John

[Anonymous]

Hello all
I am using on off push buttons from radio shack to turn on and off my engine service tracks. I can run engines in and shut off power to the track so the engines don't sit and idle. I have been trying for days to get bulbs to lite on the control panel when the tracks are powered. Just can't get the right wiring arrangement. I know I could probably just run a pair of wires to each track and they would come on when power is applied. But I'm sure there is a way to power the lights off the push buttons. Can anyone suggest a web site where there might be a schematic to show how to do this? Or a book?
Thanks
John

[Puckdropper]

If you get a single throw double pole (STDP) switch, you can have 2 circuits controlled by the same switch. Put one rail's power on one side, and light power to the other. You may have to switch from push button to toggle switches, but it should not cost you any more than building a circuit.

[Puckdropper]

If you get a single throw double pole (STDP) switch, you can have 2 circuits controlled by the same switch. Put one rail's power on one side, and light power to the other. You may have to switch from push button to toggle switches, but it should not cost you any more than building a circuit.

[Jacktal]

The idea of controlling two circuits with a SPDT swich is indeed the simplest and cheapest solution.However if you want to keep your push button switches for any reason,I have another solution that is also fairly simple and not very expensive.

The way I understand it,your pilot lamps glow proportionally to throttle application,meaning that you can't see which track is active when your throttle is turned down.My solution is a standard automotive relay generally used for accessories like fog lamps,etc.These are widely used and are easy to find in any auto parts store,are cheap and last a long time.

These relays have numbered poles and are fairly easy to wire.It goes like this..........
Pole no.30 is where you connect your track power from the control
Pole no.87 is the relay's NO(Normally open) pole where you connect your power going to the track.
Pole no.87a is the NC(Normally closed) pole,which in your case is to be ignored.
Pole no.85 is the solenoid activation pole where you connect a steady 12VDC supply coming from your switch,which is also connected to one side of your pilot lamp.
Pole no.86 is the solenoid ground where you connect your 12V ground and the other side of your pilot lamp.

This way you can still have your push button switches and have your pilot lamps glowing fully even if your throttle control isn't even turned on.

[Jacktal]

The idea of controlling two circuits with a SPDT swich is indeed the simplest and cheapest solution.However if you want to keep your push button switches for any reason,I have another solution that is also fairly simple and not very expensive.

The way I understand it,your pilot lamps glow proportionally to throttle application,meaning that you can't see which track is active when your throttle is turned down.My solution is a standard automotive relay generally used for accessories like fog lamps,etc.These are widely used and are easy to find in any auto parts store,are cheap and last a long time.

These relays have numbered poles and are fairly easy to wire.It goes like this..........
Pole no.30 is where you connect your track power from the control
Pole no.87 is the relay's NO(Normally open) pole where you connect your power going to the track.
Pole no.87a is the NC(Normally closed) pole,which in your case is to be ignored.
Pole no.85 is the solenoid activation pole where you connect a steady 12VDC supply coming from your switch,which is also connected to one side of your pilot lamp.
Pole no.86 is the solenoid ground where you connect your 12V ground and the other side of your pilot lamp.

This way you can still have your push button switches and have your pilot lamps glowing fully even if your throttle control isn't even turned on.

[Anonymous]

Jacktal
No this is a dcc railroad. The sidings only get power when the toggle switch (button) is in the on position. Doesn't matter about throttle position. I think I have found a solution however. I was wiring the lamps in series with the toggles. If I wire them in parellel I think that will work.
John

[Anonymous]

Jacktal
No this is a dcc railroad. The sidings only get power when the toggle switch (button) is in the on position. Doesn't matter about throttle position. I think I have found a solution however. I was wiring the lamps in series with the toggles. If I wire them in parellel I think that will work.
John

[Jacktal]

You're right dragondog,there's something I missed.If you have a DCC layout,I don't see the point of cutting power to your service tracks as a DCC loco will not react unless it is called to by its adress.Or it is that you want to park non decoder equipped locos on your service tracks,which you didn't say.

However,a DC operated relay can still handle DCC's AC current through its accessory feed circuit without any harm whatsoever and still wire your control panel as explained in my yesterday reply,that is if you have 12VDC available and don't mind using it for this purpose.

Anyway,I thought I could help and I'm certainly glad I tried.I wouldn't hesitate to do so again.

[Jacktal]

You're right dragondog,there's something I missed.If you have a DCC layout,I don't see the point of cutting power to your service tracks as a DCC loco will not react unless it is called to by its adress.Or it is that you want to park non decoder equipped locos on your service tracks,which you didn't say.

However,a DC operated relay can still handle DCC's AC current through its accessory feed circuit without any harm whatsoever and still wire your control panel as explained in my yesterday reply,that is if you have 12VDC available and don't mind using it for this purpose.

Anyway,I thought I could help and I'm certainly glad I tried.I wouldn't hesitate to do so again.