AMI - one person's experience

[Anonymous]

I thought since I have seen this topic bandied about a bit I would do a kind of review after having laid about one hundred and twenty feet of AMI and track (about one third of my layout). I will note that I have used cork in the past and homasote at my friends homes.

First, I was nervous. I had bought what I was going to be using now - and in the future - about a year and a half ago. So I read some positive experiences with it and some negative in various forums. I was nervous as to whether I would be happy with the product.

I bought HO AMI for my N layout, planning on cutting it in two to extend its length and reduce the cost. So I bought four boxes of AMI in HO - thirty feet long; each box would provide 60 feet of N scale length AMI.

My first attempt at cutting the AMI length wise wasn't that great; I don't recommend scissors for cutting the product. If you have already purchased your AMI, buy a pizza cutter from the dollar store and dedicate it to your layout.

My technique for cutting AMI length wise was as follows - first, I eye balled the centre of the AMI and cut with short strokes using the pizza cutter. The issues are the same with AMI as pizza, you will cut most of it, with the occasional stubborn piece not quite making it. I would cut only six foot lengths at one time; I found this easier to manage. I used old hard board underneath so as not to mar any surfaces. Once the AMI was pizza cut, I then folded the AMI back on itself, paper back touching paper back. I found this helped break the tension of some of the stubborn AMI that had been only partially cut by the pizza cutter.

It isn't the end of the world if pieces touch, but life is simpler if you can keep the pieces apart, not touching. I would then lay a piece down on the centre lines I had drawn in of the track plan. I would then add another length to the end of the first piece by simply pressing one into the other.

I would press down on the AMI only at a few points until I knew I had what I wanted, then I would press down on more spots once I figured I had it right.

I then added track and turnouts, making sure to use electrical tape, sticky side down on the AMI, shiny side up, by the turnout throw and points, as instructed to on the package.

I found I liked the AMI. It has one advantage that no one has really discussed and that is the ability to change your mind, several times in a couple of instances. With AMI your decisions aren't sealed in cement - so to speak. I could move it here, or over there, or just back a little bit, or forward just a tiny bit and it would do it. I found myself thinking that if I had used cork or Woodland Scenic road bed, I would have had a tougher time changing and re-changing. In fact, in one location I added a turnout and extra track, decided I didn't like it, tore it out, then decided it really need to be there and re-installed, all in a couple of hours, try that with other road beds and track spikes.

With laying track, several times I had to pull up track that I had "permanently" pressed into the AMI, and with patience it came up and I was able to fix some blunders I had made and pressed it back in. Again imagine spiking down your track then having to pull it due to some bone head mistake.

I liked it so much, that in an area I had decided to not use it; I have changed my mind and plan on using it. Its just too convenient, not to use it.

It is more expensive than some of the other alternatives, but I found it so forgiving of mistakes, I decided the extra expense was worth it.

I have edited this in: when pressing down to "permanently" attach the track to the AMI, watch your turnouts. I was using a board to press in the track and unexpectedly caught a point on the board and ruined a new turnout. If I had known that was an issue, I would have been more aware the first time round. My only negative criticism of the AMI company is that they should warn would be "presser inners" to be aware of the delicate parts of the turnout and to put pressure with the flat of the board and not the edge of the board so as not to pick parts and ruin them.

[Anonymous]

I thought since I have seen this topic bandied about a bit I would do a kind of review after having laid about one hundred and twenty feet of AMI and track (about one third of my layout). I will note that I have used cork in the past and homasote at my friends homes.

First, I was nervous. I had bought what I was going to be using now - and in the future - about a year and a half ago. So I read some positive experiences with it and some negative in various forums. I was nervous as to whether I would be happy with the product.

I bought HO AMI for my N layout, planning on cutting it in two to extend its length and reduce the cost. So I bought four boxes of AMI in HO - thirty feet long; each box would provide 60 feet of N scale length AMI.

My first attempt at cutting the AMI length wise wasn't that great; I don't recommend scissors for cutting the product. If you have already purchased your AMI, buy a pizza cutter from the dollar store and dedicate it to your layout.

My technique for cutting AMI length wise was as follows - first, I eye balled the centre of the AMI and cut with short strokes using the pizza cutter. The issues are the same with AMI as pizza, you will cut most of it, with the occasional stubborn piece not quite making it. I would cut only six foot lengths at one time; I found this easier to manage. I used old hard board underneath so as not to mar any surfaces. Once the AMI was pizza cut, I then folded the AMI back on itself, paper back touching paper back. I found this helped break the tension of some of the stubborn AMI that had been only partially cut by the pizza cutter.

It isn't the end of the world if pieces touch, but life is simpler if you can keep the pieces apart, not touching. I would then lay a piece down on the centre lines I had drawn in of the track plan. I would then add another length to the end of the first piece by simply pressing one into the other.

I would press down on the AMI only at a few points until I knew I had what I wanted, then I would press down on more spots once I figured I had it right.

I then added track and turnouts, making sure to use electrical tape, sticky side down on the AMI, shiny side up, by the turnout throw and points, as instructed to on the package.

I found I liked the AMI. It has one advantage that no one has really discussed and that is the ability to change your mind, several times in a couple of instances. With AMI your decisions aren't sealed in cement - so to speak. I could move it here, or over there, or just back a little bit, or forward just a tiny bit and it would do it. I found myself thinking that if I had used cork or Woodland Scenic road bed, I would have had a tougher time changing and re-changing. In fact, in one location I added a turnout and extra track, decided I didn't like it, tore it out, then decided it really need to be there and re-installed, all in a couple of hours, try that with other road beds and track spikes.

With laying track, several times I had to pull up track that I had "permanently" pressed into the AMI, and with patience it came up and I was able to fix some blunders I had made and pressed it back in. Again imagine spiking down your track then having to pull it due to some bone head mistake.

I liked it so much, that in an area I had decided to not use it; I have changed my mind and plan on using it. Its just too convenient, not to use it.

It is more expensive than some of the other alternatives, but I found it so forgiving of mistakes, I decided the extra expense was worth it.

I have edited this in: when pressing down to "permanently" attach the track to the AMI, watch your turnouts. I was using a board to press in the track and unexpectedly caught a point on the board and ruined a new turnout. If I had known that was an issue, I would have been more aware the first time round. My only negative criticism of the AMI company is that they should warn would be "presser inners" to be aware of the delicate parts of the turnout and to put pressure with the flat of the board and not the edge of the board so as not to pick parts and ruin them.

[dknelson]

Thanks this is useful; I have been thinking about giving AMI a try.
I would be interested in knowing the long term results -- anyone have AMI that goes back 10 or more years?
Dave Nelson

[dknelson]

Thanks this is useful; I have been thinking about giving AMI a try.
I would be interested in knowing the long term results -- anyone have AMI that goes back 10 or more years?
Dave Nelson

[DavidH]

I had AMI in place for over 10 years in the past and had no problems with it. This experience is echoed by the Reid brothers who note they have had some in place for over 25 years. Age just does not affect this stuff. I've been a fan of it for years.

David

[DavidH]

I had AMI in place for over 10 years in the past and had no problems with it. This experience is echoed by the Reid brothers who note they have had some in place for over 25 years. Age just does not affect this stuff. I've been a fan of it for years.

David

[Anonymous]

AMI has been around a lot longer than most of us are aware. I can recall grabbing a very very old MR and reading through it; and there before me was an add for AMI. For some reason, we seem to still treat it as a new product, whereas in reality its older than about half of the forum members here.

[Anonymous]

AMI has been around a lot longer than most of us are aware. I can recall grabbing a very very old MR and reading through it; and there before me was an add for AMI. For some reason, we seem to still treat it as a new product, whereas in reality its older than about half of the forum members here.

[der5997]

I'm really appreciating the AMI on my N layout. It even can be "reconstituted" if it gets old and not sticky enough to hold balast, for instance. (As when a section of track has been layed and the balast crew does show up for a year or two [:)] Just use a hair dryer to warm the stuf up. (Or a low temperature setting in an oven if the whole roll is getting on in years) As Rick says, this stuff is forgiving! I especially like the ability to produce super elevation on curves by pressing more firmly on the inside rail when laying the track. Beware of drill through this stuff. It gets caught up on drill bits like iron filings to a magnet [:o] What you have to do is cut out a way larger section of the AMI than you thinkis necessary, drill the hole, and put the AMI back. BTW, ordinary paint thinner cleans off a clagged up drill bit like magic.

[der5997]

I'm really appreciating the AMI on my N layout. It even can be "reconstituted" if it gets old and not sticky enough to hold balast, for instance. (As when a section of track has been layed and the balast crew does show up for a year or two [:)] Just use a hair dryer to warm the stuf up. (Or a low temperature setting in an oven if the whole roll is getting on in years) As Rick says, this stuff is forgiving! I especially like the ability to produce super elevation on curves by pressing more firmly on the inside rail when laying the track. Beware of drill through this stuff. It gets caught up on drill bits like iron filings to a magnet [:o] What you have to do is cut out a way larger section of the AMI than you thinkis necessary, drill the hole, and put the AMI back. BTW, ordinary paint thinner cleans off a clagged up drill bit like magic.

[Anonymous]

Great write up. I have some AMI I was hesitating to use on my new layout and this encourages me to use it.

[Anonymous]

Great write up. I have some AMI I was hesitating to use on my new layout and this encourages me to use it.

[Anonymous]

Even after I wrote the above, I am still doing some micro adjustments to my track, and I keep wondering how "normal" people do it without AMI.

[Anonymous]

Even after I wrote the above, I am still doing some micro adjustments to my track, and I keep wondering how "normal" people do it without AMI.

[jrbarney]

For those that are interested, the URL for AMI Instant Roadbed is:
<http://www.ami-roadbed.com>. It includes instructions and a price sheet plus a Frequently Asked Questions file. Bob Barney

[jrbarney]

For those that are interested, the URL for AMI Instant Roadbed is:
<http://www.ami-roadbed.com>. It includes instructions and a price sheet plus a Frequently Asked Questions file. Bob Barney

[Anonymous]

The above link doesn't work as there is one to many characters in the url so instead use this link:

http://www.ami-roadbed.com/

[Anonymous]

The above link doesn't work as there is one to many characters in the url so instead use this link:

http://www.ami-roadbed.com/

[der5997]

Rick: I'm very glad I tried AMI ,not least because of the ease of track adjustment. I well remember the difficulties of making adjustments with cork road bed and track pinned down with track nails. However, I've several sections of my track now directly glued to insulation foam board. Adjustment in this case isn't difficult either since the glue I used was ordinary white glue. This is water soluable. So, all it needs is a good soak under a wet cloth for a few hours. The glue truns white again, you can tell when it's ready. Slide a scraper under the track, and gently move the track to where you want it. Scrape off any glue that isn't where it should be. Re-apply new glue (dilute white, drop by drop, every few ties. Lift the track just enought to get the glue to sit down in the ties. Weight the track until the glue sets up.) I use this for yards and hidden track areas.
I see from the AMI web site that they also do sheets of roadbed. Have you tried this for a yard?

[der5997]

Rick: I'm very glad I tried AMI ,not least because of the ease of track adjustment. I well remember the difficulties of making adjustments with cork road bed and track pinned down with track nails. However, I've several sections of my track now directly glued to insulation foam board. Adjustment in this case isn't difficult either since the glue I used was ordinary white glue. This is water soluable. So, all it needs is a good soak under a wet cloth for a few hours. The glue truns white again, you can tell when it's ready. Slide a scraper under the track, and gently move the track to where you want it. Scrape off any glue that isn't where it should be. Re-apply new glue (dilute white, drop by drop, every few ties. Lift the track just enought to get the glue to sit down in the ties. Weight the track until the glue sets up.) I use this for yards and hidden track areas.
I see from the AMI web site that they also do sheets of roadbed. Have you tried this for a yard?

[Anonymous]

I've seen the sheets of AMI for yards at one of the LHS's here but I haven't used it. First I don't have a traditional yard as most layouts do. But I would have still used the strips.

I am using another technique a friend of mine used on his layout. In his yard, he used dried, powdered river silt from the Fraser River in Vancouver, British Columbia. We went about a month ago and harvested some for me. His dirt really looks good (very light colour) and I thought I would use it as my base coat instead of paint. Seems to me if something shows through, real dirt will look better than paint. So I am using the river silt in my yards and along parts of my layout.

[Anonymous]

I've seen the sheets of AMI for yards at one of the LHS's here but I haven't used it. First I don't have a traditional yard as most layouts do. But I would have still used the strips.

I am using another technique a friend of mine used on his layout. In his yard, he used dried, powdered river silt from the Fraser River in Vancouver, British Columbia. We went about a month ago and harvested some for me. His dirt really looks good (very light colour) and I thought I would use it as my base coat instead of paint. Seems to me if something shows through, real dirt will look better than paint. So I am using the river silt in my yards and along parts of my layout.

[der5997]

Rick: Read somewhere that sand on layouts may cause problems. Something to do with iron particles getting in motor magnets, and windings. Fraser River silt may be iron particle reduced (and sawdust enriched? [:)] Might be worth running a magnet over the dry silt before laying, to see if much of anything comes up.
Regards, John.

[der5997]

Rick: Read somewhere that sand on layouts may cause problems. Something to do with iron particles getting in motor magnets, and windings. Fraser River silt may be iron particle reduced (and sawdust enriched? [:)] Might be worth running a magnet over the dry silt before laying, to see if much of anything comes up.
Regards, John.

[Anonymous]

John,
Normally I would run a magnet through the dirt, but as I said my friend has had it on his layout for three years now; no problems with running, fungal growth (another person's prediction) or any other hazard. Though I will bake it anyways at 450 for one hour to make sure anything is dead. This stuff isn't anything like a sand consistency, more of a powder.

[Anonymous]

John,
Normally I would run a magnet through the dirt, but as I said my friend has had it on his layout for three years now; no problems with running, fungal growth (another person's prediction) or any other hazard. Though I will bake it anyways at 450 for one hour to make sure anything is dead. This stuff isn't anything like a sand consistency, more of a powder.

[der5997]

Rick "more of a powder." Sounds great for N. Strikes me most of the material we have available commercially for earth type ground cover in N is pretty large.
"I will bake it anyways at 450 for one hour " That should dry it out some!!!

How does this powder stick to the AMI? Any clumping or scaling off? I'm thinking of what can happen with powders in other applications where one touch too many results in a blob of the stuff coming off on one's fingers.

[der5997]

Rick "more of a powder." Sounds great for N. Strikes me most of the material we have available commercially for earth type ground cover in N is pretty large.
"I will bake it anyways at 450 for one hour " That should dry it out some!!!

How does this powder stick to the AMI? Any clumping or scaling off? I'm thinking of what can happen with powders in other applications where one touch too many results in a blob of the stuff coming off on one's fingers.

[Anonymous]

I committed to AMI back in 1993 when I set out to build a small lightweight layout in N-scale; not wanting to use plywood for subroadbed, I went with 1/2" FoamCore board, and since this will not hold nails I needed an alternative. AMI was the answer, and it worked PERFECTLY.

Now, I'm in the process of rebuilding my "big" layout, and while the original 1/4" plywood is still there (just as flimsy as ever), I'm overlaying it with 1/2" Foamcore. This allows me to reconfigure my track centerlines slightly, as well as fine-tune gradients by elevating the Foamcore. Of course, it also means that I'm using AMI exclusively. For turnouts, rather than place tape over the AMI to protect the points, I omit the AMI altogether, and let the turnout "float". The tape adds depth to the roadbed, depth which must be compressed once teh adjoining track is pressed into the sticky stuff. Instead, I use CA to glue thick cardstock to the underside of the turnout, of approximately the same depth as the compressed AMI, and then stop the AMI right at the rail joiners on the turnout. Conventional ballasting with diluted glue adheres readily to the cardstock, as it soaks in the glue; I tend to use glue even over the AMI just out of habit.

Another nice thing about AMI is that it has a lot of flexibility; my layout is in an attic space and goes through extremes of temperature, but I've had no troubles with my roadbed. Plus, as a bonus, I don't have any nail heads showing down the center of my ties!

[Anonymous]

I committed to AMI back in 1993 when I set out to build a small lightweight layout in N-scale; not wanting to use plywood for subroadbed, I went with 1/2" FoamCore board, and since this will not hold nails I needed an alternative. AMI was the answer, and it worked PERFECTLY.

Now, I'm in the process of rebuilding my "big" layout, and while the original 1/4" plywood is still there (just as flimsy as ever), I'm overlaying it with 1/2" Foamcore. This allows me to reconfigure my track centerlines slightly, as well as fine-tune gradients by elevating the Foamcore. Of course, it also means that I'm using AMI exclusively. For turnouts, rather than place tape over the AMI to protect the points, I omit the AMI altogether, and let the turnout "float". The tape adds depth to the roadbed, depth which must be compressed once teh adjoining track is pressed into the sticky stuff. Instead, I use CA to glue thick cardstock to the underside of the turnout, of approximately the same depth as the compressed AMI, and then stop the AMI right at the rail joiners on the turnout. Conventional ballasting with diluted glue adheres readily to the cardstock, as it soaks in the glue; I tend to use glue even over the AMI just out of habit.

Another nice thing about AMI is that it has a lot of flexibility; my layout is in an attic space and goes through extremes of temperature, but I've had no troubles with my roadbed. Plus, as a bonus, I don't have any nail heads showing down the center of my ties!