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N scale radius

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
N scale radius
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 10, 2003 12:42 PM
I am getting back into model railroading after a 10 year break (life got too busy) and am in the planning stages of new layout. I have a few questions:

(1) What is the minimum recommended track radius for N scale? (I will be running larger, passenger trains, along with freight) Some of the track will be hidden and in a helix. I assume the radii may be smaller in these areas???

(2) Can anyone recommend a site where I can educate myself on track types and "codes", turn-out codes, etc.? I want to be sure that I start with all the right track.

(3) Any recommendations on layout software? (user-friendly. this will not be a large layout.)

Thanks.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
N scale radius
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 10, 2003 12:42 PM
I am getting back into model railroading after a 10 year break (life got too busy) and am in the planning stages of new layout. I have a few questions:

(1) What is the minimum recommended track radius for N scale? (I will be running larger, passenger trains, along with freight) Some of the track will be hidden and in a helix. I assume the radii may be smaller in these areas???

(2) Can anyone recommend a site where I can educate myself on track types and "codes", turn-out codes, etc.? I want to be sure that I start with all the right track.

(3) Any recommendations on layout software? (user-friendly. this will not be a large layout.)

Thanks.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 10, 2003 3:41 PM
Go to the Atlas site (http://www.atlasrr.com/default.asp) and download their Right Track Software (RTS) - its free and good.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 10, 2003 3:41 PM
Go to the Atlas site (http://www.atlasrr.com/default.asp) and download their Right Track Software (RTS) - its free and good.
  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: City of Québec,Canada
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Posted by Jacktal on Sunday, August 10, 2003 9:56 PM
To your first question....Atlas makes tracks with curve radiuses of 9 3/4,11 and 19 inches.For your purpose,9 3/4 and even 11 in.radius will not suit your purpose very well while your passenger cars will look great on 19 in.rad. curves but they eat up a lot of space.If space isn't a problem,you can get even greater curve radiuses.A good compromise would be to use "flextrack" and design curves in the 15-16 in.radius.
To your second question....simple.....just visit "Loys Toys" website and look at their Peco track section........well done and instructive.
As far as a design software,visit Atlas Model Railroad website,they offer a software called Right Track,which I believe is fine,and on top of this,free.
  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: City of Québec,Canada
  • 1,258 posts
Posted by Jacktal on Sunday, August 10, 2003 9:56 PM
To your first question....Atlas makes tracks with curve radiuses of 9 3/4,11 and 19 inches.For your purpose,9 3/4 and even 11 in.radius will not suit your purpose very well while your passenger cars will look great on 19 in.rad. curves but they eat up a lot of space.If space isn't a problem,you can get even greater curve radiuses.A good compromise would be to use "flextrack" and design curves in the 15-16 in.radius.
To your second question....simple.....just visit "Loys Toys" website and look at their Peco track section........well done and instructive.
As far as a design software,visit Atlas Model Railroad website,they offer a software called Right Track,which I believe is fine,and on top of this,free.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 11, 2003 12:11 AM
Piper,
I'm in the process of laying track on my N scale layout. I have a minimum radius on the main of 17.5 and 16 on anything else. I have a reversing loop with the larger radius on the outside and 16 as the inner loop. I use a passenger car to test all my track as that is about the maximum length of anything I run. I found the difference between the two loop visually and operationally almost to be the same.

MR did a "project" layout called the Wisconsin Central; they used 15 inch mainline curves. I suspect you would be okay with those as well. If you can, go larger, but if you can't then consider 15 inches.

Helix's are a whole other issue. You track grade is affected by the radius of the track, and the height separation of the track over the lower track, rail head to rail head, but don't forget the thickness of the material you are laying your track on.

There is another way to go about a helix, which in N scale works really well. Maybe tomorrow, if I remember, I will supply you with a link to "Nolix's". A nolix is like a helix in that it is an area dedicated to elevating the track to a second deck. But unlike a helix, more than 50% of the track will be visible. Waiting for a train to come out of a helix can sometimes seem like forever, especially if the deck separation gets into the high teens or lower 20's in inches.

I am in the process of building a nolix. So on my layout, I have two decks, both U shaped, with a reversing loop over and under and the end of left U. At the end of the right U, I have another part of the layout, which is L shaped, 6 1/2 by 6 1/2 which will house the nolix. With a maximum curve of 17 1/2 inches, this means it is standing out three and a half feet from the wall. The track will make three loops around this area. The first loop I have decided to keep hidden except for a small tunnel showing, the next two loops will be side by side, but one track lower than the other, separated by a river. This is hard to describe, but in 80 feet of running, about 50 feet of it will be visible. My buddy is building a helix in HO, with a 20 inch separation and 80 feet of track (excluding double tracking) and about 6 feet of it will be visible. So I am able to squeeze out more visible mainline running with only a small part of the mainline not visible at time to time.

By the way, there are only about 40 people on the planet who have any idea of what a nolix is or how you should build one, so if you post a question about it in a forum, you will probably be met with silence. A nolix is a great design tool in N scale, but not so hot in HO (eats lots of space - but great for a peninsula). In the link I will try and find, I have another link to some ones layout in N who is using one.
  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 11, 2003 12:11 AM
Piper,
I'm in the process of laying track on my N scale layout. I have a minimum radius on the main of 17.5 and 16 on anything else. I have a reversing loop with the larger radius on the outside and 16 as the inner loop. I use a passenger car to test all my track as that is about the maximum length of anything I run. I found the difference between the two loop visually and operationally almost to be the same.

MR did a "project" layout called the Wisconsin Central; they used 15 inch mainline curves. I suspect you would be okay with those as well. If you can, go larger, but if you can't then consider 15 inches.

Helix's are a whole other issue. You track grade is affected by the radius of the track, and the height separation of the track over the lower track, rail head to rail head, but don't forget the thickness of the material you are laying your track on.

There is another way to go about a helix, which in N scale works really well. Maybe tomorrow, if I remember, I will supply you with a link to "Nolix's". A nolix is like a helix in that it is an area dedicated to elevating the track to a second deck. But unlike a helix, more than 50% of the track will be visible. Waiting for a train to come out of a helix can sometimes seem like forever, especially if the deck separation gets into the high teens or lower 20's in inches.

I am in the process of building a nolix. So on my layout, I have two decks, both U shaped, with a reversing loop over and under and the end of left U. At the end of the right U, I have another part of the layout, which is L shaped, 6 1/2 by 6 1/2 which will house the nolix. With a maximum curve of 17 1/2 inches, this means it is standing out three and a half feet from the wall. The track will make three loops around this area. The first loop I have decided to keep hidden except for a small tunnel showing, the next two loops will be side by side, but one track lower than the other, separated by a river. This is hard to describe, but in 80 feet of running, about 50 feet of it will be visible. My buddy is building a helix in HO, with a 20 inch separation and 80 feet of track (excluding double tracking) and about 6 feet of it will be visible. So I am able to squeeze out more visible mainline running with only a small part of the mainline not visible at time to time.

By the way, there are only about 40 people on the planet who have any idea of what a nolix is or how you should build one, so if you post a question about it in a forum, you will probably be met with silence. A nolix is a great design tool in N scale, but not so hot in HO (eats lots of space - but great for a peninsula). In the link I will try and find, I have another link to some ones layout in N who is using one.
  • Member since
    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 12:25 PM
I completed a mid size n-scale layout (2' wide x 15'long). It is only two feet wide because there is a closet door I wanted to keep functioning at one end. I saw at Trainfest a show layout with the 9 3/4" radius curves with passenger trains running. While the overhang looked a bit toyish, if hidden in a tunnel or other place, it worked.

I used a 9 3/4 in radius on the inner loop, where I generally don't run passenger trains and 11" radius where I do. The four axle diesels and up to 60 foot freight cars do well on the 11". I have a Kato Dash9 loco that always derails the car behind it on one corner of the 11" rad (but only in one direction), and I don't try using six axle diesels in the 9 3/4 radius corners.

Based on my experience, I would have redesigned the layout to have drop corners for the closet door, or shortened the layout to accomodate a minimum radius of 11" for freight trains and 19" for passenger trains. I have had very poor results bending flex track for loops, so I stick with the sectional track for corners. Otherwise you can bend flex track to get a radius somewhere between 11 and 19". If I were to start over (and I am building an extension), I would keep the radius to at least 16" for everything, especially if you are running modern equipment or passenger trains.
  • Member since
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  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 12:25 PM
I completed a mid size n-scale layout (2' wide x 15'long). It is only two feet wide because there is a closet door I wanted to keep functioning at one end. I saw at Trainfest a show layout with the 9 3/4" radius curves with passenger trains running. While the overhang looked a bit toyish, if hidden in a tunnel or other place, it worked.

I used a 9 3/4 in radius on the inner loop, where I generally don't run passenger trains and 11" radius where I do. The four axle diesels and up to 60 foot freight cars do well on the 11". I have a Kato Dash9 loco that always derails the car behind it on one corner of the 11" rad (but only in one direction), and I don't try using six axle diesels in the 9 3/4 radius corners.

Based on my experience, I would have redesigned the layout to have drop corners for the closet door, or shortened the layout to accomodate a minimum radius of 11" for freight trains and 19" for passenger trains. I have had very poor results bending flex track for loops, so I stick with the sectional track for corners. Otherwise you can bend flex track to get a radius somewhere between 11 and 19". If I were to start over (and I am building an extension), I would keep the radius to at least 16" for everything, especially if you are running modern equipment or passenger trains.
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  • From: US
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Posted by AltonFan on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 12:54 PM
You can sometimes skimp a little on curve radius if you use easment curves. I put the center of the curve .0125" (one-eighth inch) in from the straight track, laid out the curve. Cork roadbed and flex track will more or less naturally form an easement as it runs from the straightaway and into the offset curve.

Dan

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: US
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Posted by AltonFan on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 12:54 PM
You can sometimes skimp a little on curve radius if you use easment curves. I put the center of the curve .0125" (one-eighth inch) in from the straight track, laid out the curve. Cork roadbed and flex track will more or less naturally form an easement as it runs from the straightaway and into the offset curve.

Dan

  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 1:46 PM
My 6 axle diesels had problems with Atlas flextrack bent to 9.75" radius. Seems they get just slightly out of gauge (too tight). Now use Atlas 9.75" radius sectional track for these tight curves, gauge is slightly wider, no more problems with 6 axle trucks climbing the outer rail.
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, August 13, 2003 1:46 PM
My 6 axle diesels had problems with Atlas flextrack bent to 9.75" radius. Seems they get just slightly out of gauge (too tight). Now use Atlas 9.75" radius sectional track for these tight curves, gauge is slightly wider, no more problems with 6 axle trucks climbing the outer rail.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 15, 2003 9:41 PM
I appreciate all of your replies. I was a victim of the Microsoft worm virus and haven't been able to get back to my email since I first posted this topic. I have enough space to go with a 15" or 16" radius minimum, so, I'll go that route. Also, Rick, I'd like that link to the "nolixes" if possible. I can't quite picture it but it sounds interesting.

Ford
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 15, 2003 9:41 PM
I appreciate all of your replies. I was a victim of the Microsoft worm virus and haven't been able to get back to my email since I first posted this topic. I have enough space to go with a 15" or 16" radius minimum, so, I'll go that route. Also, Rick, I'd like that link to the "nolixes" if possible. I can't quite picture it but it sounds interesting.

Ford
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 16, 2003 6:27 AM
If memory serves, a nolix (no helix) operates sort of like a parking garage. You enter at elevation zero and climb the various levels in a spiral fashion, maybe oval shape as around a mountain. Get tot the top and a turn-around or return to the original elevation in the same maner but looping inside / outside the original loop. Again sort of like exiting the parking garage. I think the nolix is a more open concept to show off your trains. Consider looking in a search engine such as Google or Alta vista, I'm sure you can find all sorts of info. Also check out forum.atlas.com for info. Enjoy.

I'm a new-bee to this site and find it interesting. My N scale is on a 3ft x 6 ft table and has 47 feet of track, buisness district, caldasac with homes, and even a haunted house, lots of fun.
  • Member since
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  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 16, 2003 6:27 AM
If memory serves, a nolix (no helix) operates sort of like a parking garage. You enter at elevation zero and climb the various levels in a spiral fashion, maybe oval shape as around a mountain. Get tot the top and a turn-around or return to the original elevation in the same maner but looping inside / outside the original loop. Again sort of like exiting the parking garage. I think the nolix is a more open concept to show off your trains. Consider looking in a search engine such as Google or Alta vista, I'm sure you can find all sorts of info. Also check out forum.atlas.com for info. Enjoy.

I'm a new-bee to this site and find it interesting. My N scale is on a 3ft x 6 ft table and has 47 feet of track, buisness district, caldasac with homes, and even a haunted house, lots of fun.
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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Sunday, August 17, 2003 7:40 AM
Check out the NMRA site (www.nmra.org) under Standards and RPs. One of the RPs (recommneded practices) covers curve radius vs type of equipment.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Culpeper, Va
  • 8,204 posts
Posted by IRONROOSTER on Sunday, August 17, 2003 7:40 AM
Check out the NMRA site (www.nmra.org) under Standards and RPs. One of the RPs (recommneded practices) covers curve radius vs type of equipment.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.

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