QUOTE: Originally posted by selector Jim, his plywood is okay, except that one end has a champhered, or bevelled edge, and he unwittingly missed that when he glued. So, his foam sheet, at that edge, has lifted at one corner because it was unsecured. The plywood, itself, is firmly held to the benchwork.
Ray Breyer
Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
QUOTE: Originally posted by selector Not to my way of thinking, Jarrell. I though you would merely want to get it back flush, surface-to-surface with the adjacent piece. If it is lifted by, say, 3/8", then you want to reduce it by that amount...only. I see no need to reef it all the way donw to the slanted butt-end of the plywood below it. In fact, the better solution, overall, might be to do as you were just saying...cut a plug, glue it to the plywood to fill the gap, and then reglue the big sheet to the plug; no need for screws. Either way, it should work. I would personally use your method. Fast, less complicated, less like modern surgery on a broken femur.
QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12 QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp Jarrell, A deflector as you have installed is fine, but I wouldn't cover the underside of the plywood with anything but sealer or paint. Any covering or moisture barrier can cause condensation, especially in such close proximity to the A/C unit. During extreme humidity w/ the unit blowing, you could end up w/ a real bad moisture problem even mold. As a carpenter, I cannot stress enough how important it is to use quality plywood, may not be the case here, but the better grades of ply from "real" lumber yards would shurely almost eliminate warping or delamination. Bob K. Thanks Bob, I appreciate it. The plywood in question is the 15/32nds interior use type. I've tried to seal the room from humidty and I may get a humidifier if problems persist. I've not been running the AC all the time, usually turning it on around noon and running it until 9 or 10 at night but that may not be enough. Jarrell Jarrell
QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp Jarrell, A deflector as you have installed is fine, but I wouldn't cover the underside of the plywood with anything but sealer or paint. Any covering or moisture barrier can cause condensation, especially in such close proximity to the A/C unit. During extreme humidity w/ the unit blowing, you could end up w/ a real bad moisture problem even mold. As a carpenter, I cannot stress enough how important it is to use quality plywood, may not be the case here, but the better grades of ply from "real" lumber yards would shurely almost eliminate warping or delamination. Bob K.
QUOTE: Originally posted by jacon12
QUOTE: Originally posted by masonjar This is a good example of why you should paint or otherwise seal the wood parts of your benchwork before moving on. I know it is a pain in the rear, but foam subroadbed, scenery, even track do not move nearly as much as the wood does. Andrew
QUOTE: Originally posted by canazar Jacon, If you run into a problem agian, I found a quick fix, out of frustration one nite, but ended up working well. I took a ling dry wall screw on a fenderwasher (a regular washer but with s super wide shoulder) and screwed the sucked into the wood. The washer put alot of presure and gave it a very secure grip. Yes, I did have a slight impression, but I just used my scenery materails and covered it up just fine. I had a spot lifton me too in the back corner. I think I forgot to use enough glue, and fixed it that way. Anyways, just .02cents.. [:)]
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Best Regards, Big John
Kiva Valley Railway- Freelanced road in central Arizona. Visit the link to see my MR forum thread on The Building of the Whitton Branch on the Kiva Valley Railway
QUOTE: Originally posted by scottghall You might also fasten a panel to the underside of the bench to deflect any flow from the air conditioner. I'ld also mount speaker-box insulation and a vapor barrier on the bench side of the panel.
QUOTE: Originally posted by mark_in_utah I'd suggest that you don't need to remove the foam to re-glue it. I'd suggest drilling a hole though the foam but not the plywood and pushing the glue through that. You can feel around and find where it's come loose and inject it into those places. Weigh it down with something heavy while it dries. Mark in Utah