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Multi-wire connectors for control panels?

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  • Member since
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  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Posted by Seamonster on Monday, July 4, 2005 7:36 AM
Been there with the small screwdriver. Life isn't long enough for that kind of frustration. [V] Forgot about them being in computers. If I can't get it at Active, I'll try one of the big wholesale computer places. (My wife doesn't like to see me let loose in there, though!)

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

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Posted by ereimer on Sunday, July 3, 2005 10:50 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Seamonster

If you plan to use a lot of those connectors, you'd do well to get a pair of removal tools for the pins. Once the pins are snapped into the housing, they're virtually impossible to remove without the tool if you make a mistake. I use Molex connectors and like them.



you can remove the pins by messing around with a small flat head screwdriver , but it's not easy . you'll sometimes find the pin removal tools in computer stores as these are the connectors that PC power suppies use , and people doing computer modding are removing the connectors to do wire wrapping etc.
  • Member since
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Posted by Seamonster on Sunday, July 3, 2005 9:52 PM
Yeah, they're pretty good connectors. My only complaint about them is that there's no strain relief for the wires, but that's not much of an issue for our uses. I got a removal tool for the male pins, but haven't found one for the female pins yet. Funny thing is, the packaging doesn't say anything about it not fitting all pins, but it sure as heck won't go over the female pins no matter what I do. The tool has a sleeve that slides over the pin and presses down on the locking ears at the base to compress them so that the pin can be pushed out the back. If you're looking for the tool, the one I've got says it's for the .093" series, 14-30 AWG wire. That must be the most popular size of pins as .093" is the only size my dsitributor stocks. It has the part number "W-HT-2054-P" on the label and it has the Molex name and "Distributed by GC/Waldom".

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

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  • From: Mexico
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Posted by egmurphy on Sunday, July 3, 2005 6:10 PM
QUOTE: Seamonster: If you plan to use a lot of those connectors, you'd do well to get a pair of removal tools for the pins. Once the pins are snapped into the housing, they're virtually impossible to remove without the tool if you make a mistake.

Now you tell me. I bought them on a trip north of the border but didn't try fooling with them until I was back down here, then it was fun trying to figure out exactly what I should be doing with them. I figured it was "do it right the first time" because I didn't see any way of getting them back out.

Glad to hear they're fairly reliable.

Regards

Ed
The Rail Images Page of Ed Murphy "If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home." - James Michener
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  • From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Posted by Seamonster on Sunday, July 3, 2005 5:55 PM
The type of connector in Ed's photo are known as Molex connectors. Although I believe Molex makes more than the one kind of connectors, that type had come to be generically referred to by their name. They're good connectors--strong, sturdy and can carry as much current as our modelling needs would require. The plastic housings come in two styles that fit into each other and the pins inside them come in both male and female varieties--you'd use one on one side and the other on the other side. The housings are keyed so they can't be connected backwards. If you plan to use a lot of those connectors, you'd do well to get a pair of removal tools for the pins. Once the pins are snapped into the housing, they're virtually impossible to remove without the tool if you make a mistake. I use Molex connectors and like them.

..... Bob

Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)

I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)

Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.

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  • From: Eastern Nebraska
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Posted by SP4449 on Sunday, July 3, 2005 4:11 PM
In addition to Mouser is Digi-Key <www.digikey.com> and Hosfelt <www.hosfelt.com>. I like Digi-Key best, huge variety and especially the hard to find items, and they have an online catalog. At least you can see what is available and then check if the local electronics outlets (besides Radio Shack) can help.
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Posted by stokesda on Sunday, July 3, 2005 11:49 AM
Ed & Marlon - thanks, that's pretty much what I had in mind. Hadn't even thought about going to an auto junkyard, but that's a really good idea. Don't know if there are any around here, but if not, I'll try the Radio Shack route.

After I posted this, I received the new MR in the mail. They have an article about how to build a portable layout, which apparently includes a control panel with this very kind of disconnect. Unfortunately, the article wasn't detailed enough to tell what kind of mulit-wire socket was used.

Cheers,

Dan Stokes

My other car is a tunnel motor

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Posted by Medina1128 on Saturday, July 2, 2005 10:47 PM
Go to an automotive boneyard. You can get various connectors cheap with a pair of wire cutters. 10, 15, and even 20 pin connectors. Not to mention bulkhead connectors (the ones that mount to the firewall. Almost every circuit in the car goes through these. Splice, solder and finish with heat shrink tubing. Make sure you put the tubing over the wire BEFORE you solder the ends together. Don't ask how I know this... [:o)]
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Posted by claycts on Saturday, July 2, 2005 3:00 PM
In the OLD days we used a terminal strip, crimp ends and wire tags. Cheap, easy and can handle 120 volts easy. Just my $.02
Take Care George Pavlisko Driving Race cars and working on HO trains More fun than I can stand!!!
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Posted by egmurphy on Saturday, July 2, 2005 2:38 PM
I use a 12 pin connector, not the computer type, that I found at Radio Shack. The numbers were 272-232 and 272-242 (male and female plugs). They make similar connectors in 6 and 9 pin also. You have to put them together.

Here's a shot of what it looks like. Note that the masking tape flags are wire labels.



I've only had this connection a few months so I can't guarantee how it would hold up over a long period, but so far so good.

Regards

Ed
The Rail Images Page of Ed Murphy "If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home." - James Michener
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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, July 2, 2005 2:01 PM
Computer connectors like that really aren't meant to handle much current. There are other more heavy-duty connectors that will do a better job, at least for the track power leads. Problem is, Radio Shack only has them up to about a 6 position. Check an electronics suppy house like Mouser and you can find much bigger ones. Levae the computer-type connectors for Tortoise switch machines, at 15ma they are well within the rating of the computer connectors. But use the heavy stuff for track power.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Saturday, July 2, 2005 1:15 PM
Go to Radio Shack and look at D-connectors. These are the ones used for parallel ports on computers. You can get 50-pin ones, but they may come even larger. Best of all, they're only a few bucks a piece. They will test your ability to solder, though. Lots of really small pins, very close together.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Multi-wire connectors for control panels?
Posted by stokesda on Saturday, July 2, 2005 11:56 AM
All,

I want to make my control panel so that I can disconnect it from the layout when it's being moved from home to home in the future. The problem is disconnecting the three dozen or so wires that go between the block wiring (yes, I'm using DC... for now), switch controls, etc. and the layout itself. Does anyone know of any multi-wire plugs/disconnects/whatever that would make it easy to plug and unplug all these wires without having to do each one individually? What I had in mind is something similar to the wiring harness plugs you'd find in car stereos, but I can't seem to find a male-female set anywhere.

Or, does anyone have any better ideas? Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Dan Stokes

My other car is a tunnel motor

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