QUOTE: Originally posted by cmrproducts Jarrell Building a freelance layout can sometimes be harder than building a prototype design. With the prototype the real railroad has done all of the hard work for you and all you have to do is copy the track layout. Now we will have to make compromises but this is usually just leaving out one or two tracks or making them shorter, adding an extra curve, etc. I was in the same boat way back in my early modeling and spent a lot of time trying to design layouts. Now 20 plus layouts later I can visualize much easier. As others have said, put down some track and get some trains running. You will be able to see it much better! BOB H – Clarion, PA
QUOTE: Originally posted by Jetrock Indeed, the best way to improve is by trying. Even if your first results are less than spectacular, over time your skills will improve. About structures: If you have not built kits before and are unsure about your level of skill, you might want to "test the waters" by building some inexpensive kits before dropping $150 on a laser-kit masterpiece. I'd recommend trying Atlas, Design Preservation Miniatures, or IHC kits--you can get nice little buildings for $10-15 that you won't cry too hard over if the HO scale building inspector slaps a teeny "condemned" sign on 'em. After you have tried a few plastic kits, there are small laser kits out there that run around $20-30. Oh yeah, about building footprints: The online version of the Walthers catalog often includes the size in inches of their buildings--a useful guide. Just wait until you hit a really good train show: at a good one you can find kits and oddball stuff that never shows up at hobby shops, sometimes at a fraction of retail. That's when my "kits to build" shelf starts groaning in protest from a mass of new kits that wouldn't fit on my layout even if I ripped up all the track to make room...
QUOTE: Originally posted by FiremanLA number one rule........dont be paralyzed with the fear of making an error in planning or building......if you lay track, do some building , at least a minimum of train running or operation, and pay attention....the layout will beg for the needed changes, and point out its own strengths.....in spite of the 'pain' involved, ANYTHING can be replanned or rebuilt...remember the JOURNEY is as much part of the goal as "finishing" your layout is. I am OFTEN 'frozen' from moving ahead because i worry about making the BEST decisions. Better to move ahead some and see how it goes and where it leads..one more comment about planning....................................John Allen planned everything ahead, it seems. Few of us are that 'foresighted' as to able to plan so well. Conversely, George Sellios did less planning and built as needed or as fit the space available. Few of us are as gifted in the art of improvising as George is. Both of them built layouts counted as all time favorites. Whose approach is correct? Once again, for most of us a mix of both techniques is probably best.......I have trouble visualizing too far ahead without at least beginning to rough out areas of scenery or building plots........Im starting a new layout and this time ill keep the FUN aspect foremost.....
QUOTE: Originally posted by johncolley I'll see you and raise you one better. I built a 2'x8' yard throat on 2" foam with roadbeds, track and some ballasting before I realized I had made NO provision for operating all the turnouts! Dumb S..T! On my new one I am cutting all the holes and gluing all the plywood(pre-drilled for the tortoises) plates in level with the top of the foam deck. Have already installed 2 machines and tested them with roadbed and mainline #10's in place. Wow, this model railroading stuff is an endless learning curve, eh?
QUOTE: Originally posted by FiremanLA its an interesting question! The prototype does it both ways. In many cases a spur is built to serve an existing or planned building or area.....but the opposite also happens as enterprises build on or near existing spur locations and available land. I think a balance of both approaches is good. Many 'problem areas' have led to some of my favorite modeling scenes. Just remember there is no magic formula to solving building locations etc.....the builders are just trying to make a buck with the land available. Thats why you see odd shaped structures in cramped high value areas...the land is to valuable to waste.
QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage Jarrell, Sorry, I should have given you the AMB web link while I was mentioning it: http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm They are detailed kits but are fairly straightforward to put together. Like any kit, it just takes time. I think you would be pleased with the variety and quality of their kits. If you want to see what they look like firsthand, you can see the ones I mentioned earlier on my link at the bottom of the post. Tom
QUOTE: Originally posted by CPCHARLIE Hello Jarrell'thanks for your reply.There is no restriction on elevations'in fact all my benchwork is L-girder at 48" with 1x3 risers.I have found though that I can run trains with less lost cabooses and fewer derailments,etc when I don't have that third dimention to cause problems. I can set a train running on it's own then take out my wayfreight and do switching and set-outs while dodging the mainline run.When friends come over it's a bit more complicated but we have fun . I'm working on Tab-on-car forwarding to give everyone a job to do but I'm not sure how it's going to go over ...Anybody tried tab-on-car? Regards,Charlie. Thanks for the explanation Charlie. Jarrell
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
QUOTE: Originally posted by KKEIFE When I designed my layout I figured out all the sturctures I wanted and then went on line or looked in catalogues to find the dimension of each structure (very easy to get for Walthers structures at least) and plotted them on my graph paper version of the layout. I t seems to work well although it seems like I need a little more room for each one when it goes on the layout as compared to how it looks on paper. Ken
QUOTE: Originally posted by tstage Jarrell, I like the laser kits, too. American Model Builders makes quite a variety of nice kits. I have put together their interlocking tower, Dill's Market, and boxcar depot. Very nice quality stuff. Who made the sawmill you were refering to? Tom
QUOTE: Originally posted by CPCHARLIE After 25 years of track plans,many trying to copy John Allan's G&D railroad,I've given up on the planning out part of model railroading.I did the room and lights then i put shelving around the outside walls at 48".I did a peninsula the same way leaving a 3' aisleway around it.This has given me a flat, chest-height layout which I can put my tracks down and run trains.. I found that this keeps me from wasting time and reams of graph paper drawing track plans.If I want to put in a building or change a siding or passing track it's a cinch and if I don't like it I can go back.This approach also inspired me to include backdrops and front facias as part of the basic setup,which tidies up the whole thing. The down side is no changes in elevation-neither in track nor topography but ,boy,when you get some friends over to run it it's real fun to walk beside your train and run it up close!It also highlights DCC operation -high and low priority trains,way freights and passenger units all add to the fun! I guess I'm saying "enough planning-get your trains rolling and have some fun!"
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
QUOTE: tstage: ...I read recently that using cardboard footprints or temporary mock ups helps with both visualizing your space and, as orsonroy pointed out, making sure you have enough room for all your ideas...