track and heat HO scale

[Anonymous]

Okay so it hit triple digits this weekend
and my upper loop went all freaky on me.
I am guessing not enough gaps in track how many gaps do you need? This is the second time it has happened. The lower level doesnt budge one bit. I have insulated the garage door and run some duct work out to the slightly converted room. I would say it hit the 90 degree mark out there. At this point I am ready to throw in the towel and just rip the layout down box up the salvageble stuff and wait until the kids move out.
Any suggestions before I just pack it in.

thanks

[Medina1128]

When I had my layout in my garage in Phoenix, I had to deal with the same thing. What I found that worked like a champ was this:
1) Do NOT solder your rail joiners and leave about .010 - .020 gap in the rails.
2) Solder feeders to the rail and run a buss to the feeders from the control panel. This works for either DC or DCC.
This makes sure you have good electrical conduction to each rail and lets the track expand and contract without buckling.

[Jetrock]

Actually, the wood under the track is probably more to blame in expansion/contraction problems than the metal track...we haven't had our first 100+ degree day yet, but I'm dreading its arrival--I have a garage layout too, but the longest run of track is six feet (I use modules.)

[cacole]

When we built the Cochise & Western Model Railroad Club's 20x40 foot HO scale layout, an experiment was conducted to determine how much expansion and contraction affected nickel-silver rail. Two pieces of Atlas code 100 flex track were placed outside on a picnic table, in full sunlight, for four hours on a July afternoon when air temperature was slightly over 100 degree. The rail became so hot that the crossties became soft. Actual temperature of the rail was measured at over 125 degrees Fahrenheit, which was the limit of the thermometer. The length of all 4 rails was measured with a machinist's tape measure, and the track was then placed into a chest-type freezer and left overnight. Between 125+ degrees and 0 degrees, the rail contracted less than 1/64th inch per 3 foot length.

We realized early on from our experience with a previous layout in our clubhouse that has no heating or air conditioning, that un-painted plywood and Homasote expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity, and are a bigger cause of track warpage and buckling than the rail itself.

Our new layout was constructed on a 2x4 framework supporting hollow-core doors, topped with two layers of Upson Board (Sound Board) held in place with Silicon caulking.

Every flex track joint has a power feed wire. Rail joints are soldered only at alternating sections of track, with a small expansion gap left between rails at the unsoldered joints. This layout has been in place for five years, now, and we have had no problems with track expansion or buckling, even on the long 40-foot straight runs.

This layout can be seen at http://members.cox.net/cacole2

[Anonymous]

Well its just a return loop
so I will take up the track and paint it
relay the track and put in gaps on the straight parts
the curves have to be soldered
If I could score a window unit it wouldnt be a big deal
but its not really in the budget now

[Anonymous]

My layout is also in the garage in the Arizona desert. It is air conditioned and insulated, but I only run the A/C when I am out there working. That means that the temperature, routinely hits over 90 and sometimes over 100 degrees. I have never had a problem with any kind of rail kinks, despite the fact that I solder every joint, including switches.
As was suggested above, these kinds of problems have much more to do with the kinds of materials used in the benchwork than rail expansion.

John Timm

[cacole]

One thing I never solder is a turnout. A turnout is the only piece of trackwork with moving parts, so there is a definite failure potential there. If you ever have to replace a turnout, it's much easier to do if they are not soldered in.