DCC wiring for a liftout

[streettrains]

I am going to have a lift out section on my layout, was wondering what kind of wiring, if any for DCC is there for it. Is there a special kind for connection?
thanks
Mike

[SpaceMouse]

Certainly a plug of some sort would be called for. I don't think it matters as long as the connections are good and the plug can stand up to multiple disconnections.

[howmus]

GrandFunk... I would second what SpaceMouse said. You could use a lot of different types of connections. Banana plugs come to mind as does the standard electrical plugs where one plug is sideways ( like this: — | ). I would suggest to use some type of arrangement where the contacts won't short out when you plug them in or pull them out. In other words don't use the 1/4" (or 1/8") phone plugs and jacks as they will briefly make contact with the wrong wire and cause a brief short if you plug it in or take it out while the power is up. Also make sure whatever you use that you will not be able able to plug it in backwards.......... And label it so some guest doesn't mess it up!!!!

[rrinker]

No different than for wiring a liftout for DC, really.

Instead of a 2-pin plug at each end, consider using a 4-pin plug. On the moveable side, both sets of pins get connected together. On the stationary side, one pair connects to the power bus, and the other set connects to a stretch of insulated track (a foot or so) before the edge - that way when the bridge is open, not only is the bridge itself unpowered, but the approach to the now huge canyon is also dead - in case anyone forgets or isn't looking.
If it's a true liftout, you'll need the same arrangment at both ends. if it's a hinged or swinging gate, you can runt he wires for the dead section on the hinge side down along the hinge with a little slack to allow it to pivot and only use 1 plug and socket set.

--Randy

[cacole]

Personally, I would recommend that you avoid using any type of standard household electrical plug and socket. No matter how careful you are, someone is likely to come along after you who thinks it plugs into a wall outlet, and electrocute themselves. That's one of the primary reasons that the NMRA and N-Trak modular layout standards call for use of a Cinch-Jones connector, even though they are getting extremely hard to find. Some type of special non-standard polarized plug and socket would be a much better choice.

As far as DCC is concerned, it makes no difference as long as your connection is good.

[howmus]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole

Personally, I would recommend that you avoid using any type of standard household electrical plug and socket. No matter how careful you are, someone is likely to come along after you who thinks it plugs into a wall outlet, and electrocute themselves.

As far as DCC is concerned, it makes no difference as long as your connection is good.

As far as the standard household electrical plug and socket is concerned, cacole is ABSOLUTELY right! (That's why I suggested the Industrial type that most people would not have in their house. It looks like this: — | not like this: | | on the end and can't be plugged in to house current..... unless you happen to have one of those boxes in your train room......). A better solution might be Pro-Audio Speakon connectors. I have them on all my speakers. I do live sound as part of my business. If you have a pro-audio store nearby... (Radidio Slack doesn't carry them as far as I know) you might want to check them out. They can't be pulled out by accident and won't short out when detached.

http://www.audiogear.com/NeutrikSpeakon.html

The advise to also have a way to turn off current to a few inches of track before (after) the liftout is right on. You would only have to remove powqer from one track to accompli***hat and It could be wired into the speakon connector as well.

Good Luck!

[streettrains]

another maybe stupid question...
my father was tossing the idea to me, that when the lift out is taken out or put back in it would break the connection or connect...

is that another way to do it without the plug?

also I have never wired a DC liftout.. so this is all new... is there a book or an article that would show me..

thanks again
Mike

[howmus]

QUOTE: Originally posted by GrandFunkRailroad


my father was tossing the idea to me, that when the lift out is taken out or put back in it would break the connection or connect...

is that another way to do it without the plug?

thanks again
Mike

I have heard of that being done, but have never built a liftout myself. What it entails is placing contacts on the area that the liftout sits in. Can be done, and can work. The problem that some have had is that a small bit of dirt, etc. or slight warping of the liftout can keep the contacts from working well. If it were me, I would use the plug to ensure solid positive electrical connection.

Have fun.......

[rrinker]

The heavier the liftout, the better the contact. But the heavier the liftout - the harder it is to lift out! It's a trade off.
You could use those folding latches - the kind that have the wire loop that you hook around the fixed part, and the tab you snap down to cinch it all up - one on each side at each end of the liftout, they would also server to put some tension on the liftout section and hold it in alignment. Since they pull tight, they would make decent electrical contacts.
Still probably easier to just use a plug and socket arrangement. Of course, if you start lifting and you forget to unplug it - that could spell trouble.


--Randy

[chateauricher]

I would avoid plugs for the simple reason that they make operating your lift-out section more complicated. In another topic, I made a suggestion regarding wiring for a lift-out...

QUOTE: This is an idea I came up with but have not tested. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work :

At each end of the opening, on the permanent structure, place two (2) pin-like contacts -- one wired to your power source, the other to one rail of the approach track. On the bottom of your bridge section, place a metal strip so that it will make contact with both pins, and connect this to the corresponding rail of the track on the bridge. Do this for each rail at both ends of the opening.

Be sure to cut through both rails of the approach tracks to isolate them from the rest of the layout. This isolated section should be at least 4-5" (10-12cm) longer than your longest trains to give a reversing train time to stop before pushing any cars over the "cliff".

When the bridge is in place, the metal strip makes contact with the pins, closing the circuit and allowing power to be fed to the approach tracks as well as the bridge section. When the bridge is removed, the circuit is broken and no power goes to the approach tracks. An approaching train will stop before it falls over the "cliff".

Someone suggested using a spring-loaded type of contact (similar to what holds batteries in your tv remote) to ensure good contact even if the structure becomes warped.