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Window Glazing

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 5, 2005 12:12 PM
Testor's clear parts and window maker cement (that's a mouthful) is great. I picked up one at my local drug store in the model section on a whim. It is stronger than white glue. I have not had much luck using the window making feature.

here's an example of the stuff
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/301615.asp
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, May 4, 2005 11:33 AM
Krystal Clear is a clear PVA... you should be able to find a similar product in a hardware shop for a fraction of the price!

Allan Lees
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Posted by tstage on Monday, May 2, 2005 3:24 PM
Andy inadvertently left off the first part of the address. Here it is: http://www.cloverhouse.com

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by Sperandeo on Monday, May 2, 2005 2:07 PM
Hi Harvey,

If you use real glass for window glazing, you can use CA (super glue) without fear of fogging the glass. Clover House, www.cloverhouse.com sells glass for models, microsope cover-glass panels only .006" thick, and also offers glass scribers. You scribe and snap the glass to size, just as with full-size panes.

So long,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

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Posted by rrinker on Monday, May 2, 2005 1:59 PM
I picked up some stuff at a local train show, it's called "crystal cement" and is intended for use by watchmakers for gluing watch crystals back on - supposedly doesn't fog the plastic. Haven't had a chance to try it out, but it wasn't cheap.
Microscale Krystal-Kleer will also work as an adhesive. On small openings, like a loco headlight, you can actually make the lens with this stuff, but it also will work to stick clear styrene to car and structure sides.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by bogp40 on Monday, May 2, 2005 1:05 PM
If using clear styrene on the same, use Testors liquid. Cut and lay the glazing in place and apply the glue w/ a small brush. The capillary action will draw the glue under the glazing, don't apply too much to one area and it will not leak out past the frame to show. On wood kits use white glue, Ambroid or Goo.
If you must use CA, it can be done without fogging by placing a fan or other circulation. I once used CA for glazing on a cab, hours later the cab was installed- the CA fumes still damaged the plastic overnight. Since then, with enough ventilation it never happened again.
Bob K.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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  • From: Elgin, IL
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Posted by orsonroy on Monday, May 2, 2005 1:03 PM
PVA glue: what we Yankees call "white glue".

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 2, 2005 12:54 PM
Pardon my poor spelling, "HEARD" of it.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 2, 2005 12:51 PM
Allen, what's PVA glue, I've never heared of it
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 2, 2005 10:59 AM
Try PVA glue, diluted with a little water, and applied around the edges of the window with a small paint brush.

Allan Lees
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Window Glazing
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, May 2, 2005 8:57 AM
If I have seen in articles once I've seen it a hundred times don't use CA to
glue clear window glazing because it will cause fogging[xx(], but I've never seen
a suggestion as to what you should use. I've tried 3M's double sided tape and that works OK but it's a lot of cutting and fitting and I've used liquid plastic cement but if that seeps into the window opening it will fog as well although
not as bad as CA. Any suggestions[?][?][?]
The "Harven"

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