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Tips for installing backdrops..

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  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Saturday, April 23, 2005 10:08 AM
OK, that makes sense. I was thinkign of the supporting frame for the backdrop being constructed like a picture frame, in one plane, not with the horizontal members in front of the verticals. As you describe it, you'd want the 1x4 in there. And still extend the 1/8 masonite down between the frame and the extra 1x4, otherwise it will project 1/8 over the tabletop even with the 1x4 in place.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
  • 4,648 posts
Posted by jacon12 on Saturday, April 23, 2005 7:33 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by rrinker

I think what you are looking for is 'masonite'

If you want the backdrop to be flu***o the edge of the benchwork, addiing a 1x4 will be too wide, 3/4" offset with a 1/8 item on top, the backdrop will be 5/8" set back from the edge. To make it level - extend the backdrop down to the bottom of the benchwork and bolt the backdrop frame through the backdrop and benchwork - sandwich the masonite between the support frame and the benchwork. This will hold the backdrop even with the back of the tabletop without protruding over it.

--Randy

Randy, I've only had one cup of coffee this morning, so I'm going to have to wake up more to let that sink in....[|)]
But, what I was thinkin' or figgirin' was the 1x2 upright parts of the 'frame' are actually 3/4ths by 1 3/4ths (finished size), so if I attached them directly to the bench, then attached the horizontal pieces... the horizontals will stick out over the bench 3x4ths inch. So.... if I first attach a piece of 1x4 to the bench that will offset the verticals back and the horizontals will come back even with the bench thus letting the masonite come down flush (actually 1/8th inch over) the bench.
The bench legs are 42 inches, then the 1/2 inch plywood, then 2 inches of foam... so it'll be about 44 1/2 tall with the 2 foot tall backdrop. I'm 5'8" so I thought that would be about right for me.
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Friday, April 22, 2005 10:59 PM
2' is probably a good height - how high is your benchwork? It looks like it's about 4' off the ground, which would put the top of the backdrop around 6', which should be fine for all but really tall people.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
  • 4,648 posts
Posted by jacon12 on Friday, April 22, 2005 8:01 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by Robert Knapp

Jarrell,
If the paint is drying to fast, use a paint conditioner. Your local paint store should have Floetrol, it slows the drying and prevents lap and brush marks. Use it when doing interior trim, great stuff.

Bob K.

Thanks for the tip on Floetrol, Bob. That might be just what is needed.
I was planning on putting the 1x2 uprights about every 2 feet or so and running one of the horizontal 1x2s about 3 or 4 inches from the base and the other about the same from the top. I'm only going to make it 2 feet high but on thinking about it, that's not very high... is it. But, it's better than none at all I guess.
Thanks for the suggestions Bob.
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
  • 30,002 posts
Posted by rrinker on Friday, April 22, 2005 7:56 PM
I think what you are looking for is 'masonite'

If you want the backdrop to be flu***o the edge of the benchwork, addiing a 1x4 will be too wide, 3/4" offset with a 1/8 item on top, the backdrop will be 5/8" set back from the edge. To make it level - extend the backdrop down to the bottom of the benchwork and bolt the backdrop frame through the backdrop and benchwork - sandwich the masonite between the support frame and the benchwork. This will hold the backdrop even with the back of the tabletop without protruding over it.

--Randy

Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Friday, April 22, 2005 7:53 PM
Jarrell,
If the paint is drying to fast, use a paint conditioner. Your local paint store should have Floetrol, it slows the drying and prevents lap and brush marks. Use it when doing interior trim, great stuff.
1x2s may be too weak if using pine. Hardwood would work, but will be hard to screw your backdrop Masonite/ MDF etc. Use the 1x4s at ends and seams, cap the top to stabilize and strenthen.
Bob K.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
  • 4,648 posts
Tips for installing backdrops..
Posted by jacon12 on Friday, April 22, 2005 1:43 PM
I'm at the point that I'll be installing the framework for a sky backdrop on my layout tables..

It will extend 16 feet down one section, turn and go 12 feet. I'm thinking about making it with 1x2s and using a piece of 1x4 where the seams meet. I believe the material for the backdrop itself is called wallboard, it's a brown material about 1/8th inch thick. As you can see from the photo, the end benches are only 4 feet square and I'm using 22 inch R. HO scale, so I don't have any benchtop to waste to part of the backdrop sitting on it. I'm thinking I'll screw a piece of 1x4 on the back of the bench at every place a 1x2 upright piece will be. That'll 'offset' the backdrop so that when the horizontal pieces are attached they will be flush with the benchtop. It will curve in the one corner I have.
Do you have any suggestions or tips, things you learned when doing yours that I should pay attention to?
And while I'm on the subject of painted backdrops, I plan to prime the board and paint the top half blue and the bottom half white, and try to blend the two together (no visible line) as I go. I thought I'ld use flat latex paint for this but it is fairly fast drying and I wonder if I'm going to have time to blend it. Mounting it on the wall is not an option for me.
Any thoughts on that part would also be appreciated.
Jarrell
 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.

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