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Best Glue for Plastic to Metal????

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Ma.
  • 5,199 posts
Posted by bogp40 on Sunday, April 24, 2005 11:18 AM
Originally posted by siremly

Is it possible to clamp down the rail to the plastic ties and then allow the CA to wick under the rail to effect the bonding? The info from Loctite on the internet seems to suggest this is possible but I am not sure .

/quote]

To position the rails before glueing you could drill and spike them for proper position and gauge-then glue w/ CA.

Modeling B&O- Chessie  Bob K.  www.ssmrc.org

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  • From: Northeast OH
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Posted by tstage on Friday, April 22, 2005 4:42 PM
siremly,

CA comes in a variety of thicknesses: from thin to very thick. If you apply CA to only one surface, you will get immediate adhesion. I've found that If you apply it to BOTH surfaces, the added CA will give you a small amount of "adjustment time" (small = at least a minute) so that you can manuver your pieces into place.

Only a thinner (waterier) CA would wick into the joint but I don't really know if it would be thin enough. I've only had experience with the thicker stuff.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, April 22, 2005 1:28 PM
Is it possible to clamp down the rail to the plastic ties and then allow the CA to wick under the rail to effect the bonding? The info from Loctite on the internet seems to suggest this is possible but I am not sure .

My only information about CA is that it should be applied to only one surface which in this situation would be possible but not the best approach since clamping would permit the accuracy required.
  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Thursday, April 21, 2005 10:20 PM
Duco Cement also works well for this, just beware the stringies (like old tube-type model glue). But I usually use CA for these applications - like gluing metal weights into plastic car kits - just never in a passenger car, CA fumes will craze the clear plastic windows. Duco doesn't have that problem.

--Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: San Jose, California
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Posted by nfmisso on Thursday, April 21, 2005 8:10 PM
More specifically, if you decide on the CA route - go with Loctite 4500. http://techtalk.loctite.com/index.tpl?action=spotlight&sp_id=6
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
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Posted by tstage on Thursday, April 21, 2005 5:30 PM
siremly,

Either the 5-minute epoxy or CA (cyanacrylic) will work fine. If you want or need to be able to position it after you attach it, go with the 5-min. epoxy. Make sure you have enough ventilation.though.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Best Glue for Plastic to Metal????
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 21, 2005 5:09 PM
I want to glue a code 70 nickel silver rail in the pit of a Walthers 90 foot turntable. I need a glue that will fix the rail securely to the plastic ties which I assume are styrene. I am considering using 5 minute epoxy which would allow me to glue the rail a bit at a time. Does anyone know of a better glue to use for this application?

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