Do I "need" a drop ceiling?

[flick]

QUOTE: Originally posted by siberianmo

Hey Peter!

I can't tell you what you "need," but I can tell you that my basement layout was constructed in an unfinished environment. Once done, it simply looked like something was really missing -

Take a look at the photo's I've posted and you'll see what I'm talking about ......

Beautiful room, Tom! That's exactly how I hope mine ends up looking. So did you install your light directly to the ceiling joists and then just use clear panels in those areas?

Peter

[jkeaton]

I'm going the Masonite panel route myself - on the ceiling, and on the walls of my layout space. I have only one end of an unfinished storage room, so I figured the Masonite route was best - add a valence and perhaps even a curtain to close off the layout from the rest of the room (if the dust gets to be too much. The floor above is hardwood over plywood, and while it's not as dusty as separate boards, I still find that dust come down from it (perhaps because it's 40 years old and all of the nails holding down the hardwood protrude through the plywood).

Jim

[orsonroy]

You will need a ceiling of some sort, to keep off dust and to help reflet light back down onto your layout. But drop ceilings are MUCH more expensive that a traditional drywall ceiling, and don't generally last as long (and collect dirt of their own). You don't need to access every single inch of piping in your basement, just the junctions. Add access panels at those spots, and a drywall ceiling will be fine. One thing to keep in mind is that a ceiling in your basement is a capital investment. You're adding tot he value of your home by finishing the basement!

And yes, flourescent lighting sucks. True, you CAN get color corrected bulbs and high-quality fixtures (it's the ballasts that count) but how much money do you really want to sink into lighting? $40 per bulb? Incandescents cost less, give better lighting, don't cause migranes (for us that can hear 'em), and are easier to install and aim.

[roadrat]

If you can afford the drop ceiling do it, If not try what I did, run 2x3 strapping across the joist at 2' intervals and screw 4' x 4' pieces of 1/8" hardboard(MDF) to the strapping it's not the best looking thing but it keeps the dust off your layout and each piece of the hardboard can be unscrewed and taken down to reach any wiring and plumming.

bill

[donhalshanks]

I will just have finished my new 20' x 21' basement train room after adding the carpet. I used Armstrong drop ceiling system with 2'x4' tiles. I put in 6-banks (with dimmer switches) of 6 can lights each- located so as to be over the layout when built. I also put styrene around the room with curved corners and painted a sky backdrop. Used white ceiling tiles. Results- excellent and very finished look.

Ceiling easy to put up if you go slow and follow instructions exactly. I purchased all materials from Lowes.
Tips: Can lights can be purchased in bulk (12 to a box) in contractor pack at Lowes cheap.
Can lights have extension brackets to hang the fixture on ceiling framework.
R30 bulbs can be bought at Lowes also in box of 12 which is cheaper than individual ones.
Buy the special saw blade for cutting light holes in ceiling tiles if very many lights. Fast & clean.
I found that $18 laser level very fast in getting level lines around the room. Will use on layout too.
Helps to get the string and clamps recommened by Armstrong to guide framework in installing.
Get the Armstrong drill bit for putting in wire hanger screws into ceiling joists.

I needed building permit only for the electric part.... since adding three circuit breakers in box, six light circuitis, 8 wall switches, dimmers, 36 cans, a dedicated computer line, and 12 (20 amp) power plugs around the room. Permit not needed for rest of room as long as to be used as rec/hobby room and not a bedroom or living quarters.

Good luck, have fun. Hal

[Anonymous]

Tom how are you posting your images????

[siberianmo]

Hey Peter!

I can't tell you what you "need," but I can tell you that my basement layout was constructed in an unfinished environment. Once done, it simply looked like something was really missing -

Take a look at the photo's I've posted and you'll see what I'm talking about ......

(click to enlarge)




As you can see, the drop ceiling 'says' it all ...... the basement walls have since been covered with a "stucco-like" paint and the floors have rubber matting (interlocking sqaures - 2 ft x 2 ft). The walls are peg board - which helps with the air flow - basements are notoriously damp, etc.

The thing I did assbackwards was to build the layout first - then the room! But as you may be able to tell, it worked out fine. It was quite a project - had to have scaffolding over the layout, etc .......... but you see the results. The whole thing - layout and room, took me 18 months - and not every day.

Check out the rest of my photo's on the url shown .........

Good luck![tup][;)]

Tom (Siberianmo)

[ClinchValleySD40]

I have to disagree with the comments on florescent lights not being good for color. If you use 5000K bulbs, they are as good as any artifical light there is.
If you are going to have a number of lights, you had better check how much heat they will give off if you plan to use incadescent bulbs.

A good florescent fixture will cost upwards of $25 and should be the only thing considered if going that route. Do NOT use shop lights.

[BR60103]

When I did my own basements, I used the 2x4 panels. My current room has the square tiles that are permanent. I really would like to get into the ceiling to check and change things, but I can't (don't know how it works!).
The drop ceiling can be removed in whole or in part rather quickly, and could be replaced with another.
Take care putting it up - get it level and straight. One person took his level and drew a line all the way around the room, and was pleased when the line met itself again.

[Seamonster]

A plywood underlay on the main floor with its joints over the joists doesn't let dust through either. So far my basement ceiling is unfinished and I haven't noticed any dust falling down. I doubt I'll put in a ceiling, but if I did it would be strictly for looks. One thing though, the white ceiling tiles would make the area seem brighter. I've seen basements where the joists and bottom of the floor were painted (often black for effect). Some people like that look. Two things to consider if you are putting in a ceiling. If you have any electrical junction boxes up in the joists, you must allow access to them. You cannot use drywall or stapled ceiling tiles for your ceiling. You must use a dropped ceiling with removable tiles or provide an access hatch to the junction boxes. You should also check your local building codes for minimum ceiling heights. Our local building code specifies a certain ceiling height for lived in areas like bedrooms, and a slightly lower height for the rest of the basement. If your joists are low, that may make it difficult to use a dropped ceiling or preclude its use.

[selector]

Ceiling tiles will yield a brighter area over all, but so will any 'finished' ceiling. Flourescent light is colour-poor, and will not illuminate your layout as a bright sun would. Wirng in more incandescents will be more work, but the illumination will be more pleasing. Try a light track.

The floor above my layout is a tile and grout affair, so no dust other than what blows around when the furnace runs. My basement ceiling over the laout is just joists, and I don't yet see evidence of dustiness. A rug and/or hardwood floor will have cracks through which minute particles will fall.

[ClinchValleySD40]

By all means put something up over the layout to keep the dust off. If you don't you will wi***hat you did. You would be amazed at how much dust falls from a basement ceiling just by people walking on the floor above.

If you decide to use florescents, do NOT buy cheap ones. The extra cost is well worth it. The ballast is the most important thing to keep out the flicker and buzz noise.
Incadescent lights can be very warm, will heat the area so plan on some ventilation.

[DigitalGriffin]

I'm sure you thought of these but...
Advantages of drop ceilings:

1. Can hide unsitely wires
2. Can hold florecents and can lights
3. Can hold speakers above layout for sound effects/music
4. Can run new wires to layout later. (as compared to finished cieling)

I second the idea on can lights over florecents. Florecents may be more even, and cheaper to burn, but I personally hate the color, sound, and flicker!

Disadvantges:
1. Dust bunnies from ceiling
2. not as nice a finished look as a finished ceiling
3. If they get wet, moldy, you may have to replace them. So always keep extras around incase your product line is discontinued.
4. Extra $$$ of bare ceiling (obviously)

[MAbruce]

A drop ceiling seems like a logical choice, and I’ve seen them used in several layout rooms. They really give the room a much cleaner look – and help with lighting. I’d do one myself except that I only have a corner of my basement and it would not look right to do just a small section of a basement.

Lighting options are plentiful: florescent recessed fixtures that are designed for a drop ceiling, canned recessed lights, track lighting, etc. Just go to your local Home Depot and look at all the alternatives.

[Anonymous]

One of the main reasons for a finished ceiling is to minimize the dirt and dust that falls on the layout. The drop ceiling grid is usually 2' x 4' and they have fluorescent light fixtures that fit right into the grid. I have about a dozen in my basement ceiling. It is also easy to install 'can' lights with a drop ceiling to highlight areas as desired.

[flick]

The half of the basement "deeded" to me for my layout is just about cleared out, with carpet coming next week. I'm wondering about installing a drop ceiling. From what I've read, it's great to give the area a nice, finished look, and it also helps to keep down dust. On the other hand, some people say that it's easier to install fluorescent light fixtures in an unfinished basement ceiling because you can attach them to the joists more easily.

I haven't even checked on how much the ceiling would cost (the area is approx. 14' x 20'), so that might make my decision for me. Would the type of lighting I'll eventually choose play into the decision in any way? Is there an alternative ceiling material that I haven't considered? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Peter