swisstrain I am using DCC. I mostly have (as you can see) 4-4-0' and 2-6-0's and they have been generally running well through turnouts (Atlas #4 and #2.5 Wyes, as well as some Curved #6.5 Walthers/Sinohara) without powered frogs. Nevertheless, some of the discussions in the forum convinced me to at least prepare for powered frogs when laying track (e.g. providing connection to the frogs that I could hook up later), and I ended up powering all frogs. Where I have Bluepoint Controllers (2) and Tortoises (2), I used the connections at the controller, for the turnouts that are controlled by Caboose Industries ground throws I am using Tam Valley Frog Juicers. I looked into the Caboose Industries ground throws that have contacts, but they were too fiddly for me, so I am just using the basic model. I don't have an 0-4-0, but I have a "Dockside" 0-6-0 and it goes through the powered frogs without hesitation, so I would definitely recommend powering the frogs. The picture is from an earlier stage to show the flex link arrangement, I will try to find a newer picture to post.
I am using DCC. I mostly have (as you can see) 4-4-0' and 2-6-0's and they have been generally running well through turnouts (Atlas #4 and #2.5 Wyes, as well as some Curved #6.5 Walthers/Sinohara) without powered frogs.
Nevertheless, some of the discussions in the forum convinced me to at least prepare for powered frogs when laying track (e.g. providing connection to the frogs that I could hook up later), and I ended up powering all frogs. Where I have Bluepoint Controllers (2) and Tortoises (2), I used the connections at the controller, for the turnouts that are controlled by Caboose Industries ground throws I am using Tam Valley Frog Juicers. I looked into the Caboose Industries ground throws that have contacts, but they were too fiddly for me, so I am just using the basic model.
I don't have an 0-4-0, but I have a "Dockside" 0-6-0 and it goes through the powered frogs without hesitation, so I would definitely recommend powering the frogs.
The picture is from an earlier stage to show the flex link arrangement, I will try to find a newer picture to post.
Thanks for the response! I looked into the Tam Valley Frog juicers but alas they are only for DCC. Looked at the Caboose ground throws with contacts and I agree they seem a bit fiddly (at least to me...)
I hope you can find a recent pic as it would be very interesting to see how your layout has progressed.
swisstrain Charles I didn't use the connections for signaling, since I don't have that on my small pike. I am using the connections to power the frog (yellow wire), and to power sections of the diverging track immediately after the switches (power routing of sorts if you want to call it that way). I want to protect the main route vs. the branchline coming down the hill to avoid potential collisions or prevent a train from running into a turnout that is not routed correctly. Below are a couple of pictures showing the section where the blue point controller is installed from above (the controller shown in my initial post is the one installed for the curved turnout). In the foreground (first picture) you see the knobs that control the two turnouts. As you will note, in my specific installation, I have only a relatively light bend, but the flex link would allow significantly stronger bends.
Charles
I didn't use the connections for signaling, since I don't have that on my small pike. I am using the connections to power the frog (yellow wire), and to power sections of the diverging track immediately after the switches (power routing of sorts if you want to call it that way). I want to protect the main route vs. the branchline coming down the hill to avoid potential collisions or prevent a train from running into a turnout that is not routed correctly.
Below are a couple of pictures showing the section where the blue point controller is installed from above (the controller shown in my initial post is the one installed for the curved turnout). In the foreground (first picture) you see the knobs that control the two turnouts. As you will note, in my specific installation, I have only a relatively light bend, but the flex link would allow significantly stronger bends.
Hello Swisstrain,
Your layout looks great so far! Is that a current pic or an older one to show the blue points? I am having some issues with the longer turnouts causing stalls and pauses on my short 0-4-0 locos as well as a couple swtichers that I have. So I am starting to think that powering the frogs would be a good idea.
Can I ask- is your set up DCC or DC?
Thanks,
charles
swisstrain Charles - the flex link is what you will want to use. I have two blue point controllers installed with that method, and they work great.
Charles - the flex link is what you will want to use. I have two blue point controllers installed with that method, and they work great.
Thanks for posting that! Very helpful! I see you have the blue point switches wired up as well - are you using them for signaling? Would you mind writing about what your set up is? Thanks!
- charles
RR_Mel I use DuBro #167 90° Bellcranks for my turnouts available at any RC Hobby Shop. Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
I use DuBro #167 90° Bellcranks for my turnouts available at any RC Hobby Shop.
Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
Thanks! That was the kind of mechanism that I was looking for to use.
DoctorWayne - thanks for your suggestion about a curvable wire. To be honest, I was thinking only a rigid push rod would work hence the question.
So on the flex side I just found on Tony's Trains of Vermont a product - New Rail Models Flex Link Starter Kit. I ordered a couple and will see how well they work.
I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but you may be able to curve the control rod using screw-in eyelets. They'd need to be fairly close toegether, at least through the curved portion, so that the rod can't deflect and lose the force needed to move the control arm. I'd suggest a reasonably heavy wire.
Wayne
The layout progresses... I have about 95% of the track down and have done some rough wiring - rough meaning I am doing a DC layout and have created some tentative blocks while there are some sections of track that yet be isolated and wired.
It is interesting that while running some test trains I found that a certain section of track that I thought just needed to be simply blocked turned out to be a reverse loop so I need to purchase another Atlas 220 controller so I can change the polarity on this section.
But, on to my question - for some of the switches I will be using Blue Point switch controllers. The position where the knob is going to be installed on the fascia will create an elbow shaped joint in relation to where the controller is on the layout so I can't use just a straight throw rod. Any suggestions to mechanically install a 2 part rod that connects at the "elbow joint"?
Thanks!