riogrande5761 Most people these days save money on track nails by using caulk instead. I've never wanted to use adhesives myself.
Most people these days save money on track nails by using caulk instead. I've never wanted to use adhesives myself.
At the risk of diverting this thread to a "nails vs. caulk" rabbit trail... I've used nails "back in the day", but have been using caulk for my current and previous layout, spanning 12+ years, and have been very impressed with it. It comes in colors that are similar to most types of ballast, has a reasonable time to allow track adjustment, and in a short time after being weighted-down, holds securely. Track can easily be replaced after removing some of the old caulk with a few licks of a Sure-Form tool. I haven't bothered to do a cost comparison, I just think it's a better way to secure track.
OK, sorry for the detour, now, back to the topic of using roofing nails.
Jim
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
Remember that you can use the brads outside the gauge, too, as some here have recommended. If you build a jig or aid for vertical drilling with reduced bit breakage, you should make it capable of drilling the ends of the ties, too.
Hello All,
I too have been touting the use of wire brads to adhere track to roadbed/base.
The #19 x 5/8-inch (1mmx 15.9mm) "Bright" colored (silver) is my size of choice and fits snugly in the factory drilled holes of Atlas and PECO track.
After ballasting the track in place I remove them too.
I did purchase a box of actual HO scale spikes. According to the label, the 1/4-pound box has 3,400 spikes.
These were produced by Modelmaster Car Works of Cedar Rapids, Ioa. The original price on the box is $1.85. The box itself is old and could be from the 1960s or '70s.
I don't remember if it was an e-Bay or train show find.
To date, I have yet to find a track-related use. They do make interesting scenery accents.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Given I don't have a LHS, I started using 5/8" nails quite a few years ago. Was getting them at an expensive hardware store. I later found that a certain box store carries them for a bit cheaper (had to go to 3/4" but that's not much different) and given I work there as well, it's a lot easier to get them from there.
I use Peco long track pins.
They have nice small heads that disappear against the rail.
I know they are expensive, but... I have a lifetime supply already!
-Kevin
Living the dream.
The ballast is level with the top of the ties and the nail head is on the ties.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
I would think that the nail heads would be covered by the ballast
Me too. I don’t paint my track nails, after I ballast the track the nails aren’t needed and I pull the little silver headed nails . . . . easier to see unpainted.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California Aging is not for wimps.
For the majority of model railroaders their track nails are purchased at their local hobby shop at an exorbident price. At my LHS it is $6,95 for a package of Atlas track nails. I have been using #18 3/4 inch wire brads which I purchase at my local Lowes' for $1.38. The weight is exactly the same, so the number of brads matches those of the track nails. The savings per package is $5.57. The difference is that I use a dark brown acrylic paint over the heads of the brads with a small brush since they are steel which is no big deal considering the savings.