Here is my Blog Page on my tester Kevin.https://melvineperry.blogspot.com/2014/09/september-17-2014-dcc-test-box.htmlMel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
RR_Mel I made a DCC test box for checking out my locomotives. I made a 24” 8 pin super flex extension cord to make it easy to check my goodies.Mel
I made a DCC test box for checking out my locomotives.
I made a 24” 8 pin super flex extension cord to make it easy to check my goodies.Mel
Wow, now that is an awesome troubleshooting tool!
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Wayne I’m almost 84, the only goodies I’ve got that needs checking are on my layout.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
RR_MelI made a 24” 8 pin super flex extension cord to make it easy to check my goodies.
Geez, Mel, the last time I checked my goodies, I almost got arrested.
Wayne
I made a 24” 8 pin super flex extension cord to make it easy to check my goodies.Mel Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
doctorwayne I don't use DCC, but I do add all-wheel pick-up to my steam locomotives and tenders, and use mini-connectors to get the power to where it's needed.
Another great advantage of having a connector for both rails to the locomotive is that it is a great place to plug in test wires to test run on a bench without the tender.
I agree with Mel, concerning the connectors. I don't use DCC, but I do add all-wheel pick-up to my steam locomotives and tenders, and use mini-connectors to get the power to where it's needed.
Permanently-linked loco and tender combinations are a nightmare when you need to do repairs or maintenance, and, as you're learning, not ideal for finding suitable boxes, either.
rrebellAt harbor freight they have metal boxes with pull apart foam inserts
I bought one of these to keep my camera in.
After about 12 months the foam became brittle and began to crumble.
Pelican makes some excellent boxes with pluck-foam inserts. You can also get good quality pluck-foam packing material at a FedEx store.
I say it will depend what you mean by "storage". Is this medium-long term storage, or just normal storage bewteen runs? I have many locos... I can fit about 10 on my layout, and have another 30 sitting in drawers. If I were to store locos, I would wrap them up in the MRing spare boxes I've been accumulating for the last 15 years, using proper paper for that purpose. I have a few longer boxes that I can use for that purpose. If I was moving, I would probably look for some kind of popcorn foam. My high price brass would get their own seat... maybe even their own plane seat if I'm flying .
To me, the biggest challenge is short-term storage. I don't have room for these nice glass shelves. So for my "pride and joy" brass locos, I've been placing them in their own little MR boxes, especially cut for them. They sit in the box, in their upright position, without any top. So I can grab them easily from the drawer, and they don't rub against anything else.
Simon
At harbor freight they have metal boxes with pull apart foam inserts
RR_MelI’m not into the boxing thing but I don’t see a problem using connectors between the tender and locomotive.
Mel changed my thinking on this.
I used to hard-wire my brass locomotives to the tender, but the connectors he shows are a better solution.
I wire mine like this. With this arrangement the plug will go in either way and is not polarity sensitive.
So far I have only done one, but I believe this will be my standard.
I do not use DCC, so the red and green wires just go to the motor. None of my locomotives have lighting. I keep it as simple as possible.
I’m not into the boxing thing but I don’t see a problem using connectors between the tender and locomotive. I have used the standard NMRA 8 pin connectors between all my steam locomotives and tenders for over 15 years and never had a problem.Early on I used the 8 pin NMRA connectors from hobby suppliers ($1 each) before I found out that the NMRA connector was an industry standard .1” spacing connector that I could buy off eBay, .1”/2.54mm header strips and make my own connectors for a fraction of the cost (2¢ per pin).I use the Atlas Raiser Track Saw to cut the header strips.I only have two large steam oil tenders equipped with sound decoders and I swap them around to the locomotive I happen to fancy at the time. If I don’t want to use the slope back tender on my 0-6-0s I can easily swap them out to a Vanderbilt. I have a total of 28 steam locomotives using the connectors and never had a problem.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Battlefoam Dot Com can make custom foam cut-out to any design of your specification to fit a wide variety of carry cases.
Romeo and his crew are awesome, and customer service is spot-on.
There was once a business formed to address precisely these issues -- which subsequently 'branched out' into model axle concerns -- Reboxx. I don't think they're still in business.
In case 1 the answer is to make new foam 'nests', or go to a company like a custom camera or gun case maker which is equipped to make them. If the foam is not badly deteriorated you might make paper templates and try cutting closed-cell foam with a hot-wire tool.
In the latter case you'll need new boxes or cases. I would argue that it might be worthwhile to look into clamshell cases rather than boxes, perhaps sized to take more than one locomotive -- again, gun-case makers would be an obvious first recourse...
What are the best options to rebox a brass loco in these cases.
Case 1: Steam loco gets DCC, engine and tender linked together permanently. Still fits in box but need new foam
Case2: Steam loco ges DCC, engine and tender linked together permanently, no longer fits in old box. Need a new box and foam cutout.
Case3: wear and tear, just need a new box and foam for any brass loco.
Of course doesnt have to be a brass loco, but that's the situation I have at the moment.
It might be a separate discussion but I've been told it's a good idea to link the engine and tender together permanently when converting to DCC so you don't get plugs/wires wearing out, breaking, losing contact, etc.
What are the most common solutions for this, i.e. box/foam vendors who provide re-boxing services or materials?Thanks!