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Resin: Super Glaze or Envirotex

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  • Member since
    February 2008
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Resin: Super Glaze or Envirotex
Posted by kasskaboose on Tuesday, January 12, 2021 1:20 PM

My wife bought and I started to use, more Envirotex.  I saw that HD has a competitor product: Super Glaze. Is Super Glaze better?  I read that it requires more precision in measuring than Envirotex.  Envirotex is about 25$ for 16oz while Super Glaze is about that much for twice the amount.   I'll likely need more but not sure what product to get. 

  • Member since
    January 2009
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Posted by RR_Mel on Tuesday, January 12, 2021 1:41 PM

I’ve been using Parks Super Glaze (Rust-Oleum) for about four years and very happy with the results.

This was my first attempt using Super Glaze.




I should have put some fish in the pond.

I use Woodland Scenics water in my swimming pool twice and both times it turned into brown crud before trying Magic Water.  Magic Water worked great!  I think Super Glaze is the same as Magic Water but much cheaper.


 
 

Mel



 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

  • Member since
    May 2010
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Posted by mbinsewi on Tuesday, January 12, 2021 1:49 PM

I just watched a video on using the Super Glaze.

It's used a lot for creating a glazed finish on wood table and bar tops.

It can be brushed around, which I think is a great feature.

And after looking at Mel's post, I wouldn't hesitate at all to use it for water features.

Mike.

  • Member since
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  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
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Posted by selector on Tuesday, January 12, 2021 2:11 PM

I haven't gone to look, but I'm quite certain this is what is known as a 'finish quality' epoxy.  It comes in two bottles, just like Envirotex and Nu-Lustre 55 (Canadian company called Swing Paints).  I have used both of the latter, both excellent products.

So, depending on the description for Super Glaze, if it says it has two components, a resin and a hardener, it is intended to armour and to make glossy, a clear top coat for...whatever.

These don't really need to be spread around, although if your pour volume is exceedingly thin, it will help.  Use a disposable stick of some kind, not a Q-Tip.

Do two pours, not one thick monolithic one.  Estimate your required volume to get approximately 1/8" in thickness for the area to be covered, and mix no more.  Cover and let that first pour cure for at least 24 hours, and then mix and pour a second coat IF you really need it.  This is where it gets expensive!!!

Lastly, you will almost certainly find it developing small bubbles that are visible after the pour.  Almost 95% will disappear on their own, PROVIDED you do NOT pour a gallon of the stuff to make that thick monolithic pour I warned you about.

Go back after ten minutes and if there are any bubbles, simply take a soda straw in your mouth and blow your warm breath gently over the surface where the bubbles are.  They'll disappear.

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Posted by RR_Mel on Tuesday, January 12, 2021 2:42 PM

I forgot the air bubbles, the directions say “shake well before using”.  I do but then let it set for a couple of hours to give time for the air bubbles to dissipate.  Stir and pour slowly to prevent air bubbles.  Keep your pours shallow, under ¼” and let each pour cure over night before the next pour.



The pool was four pours.



The last pour has the swimmers. 

The total depth of the pool is just over ¾”.

 

Mel



 
My Model Railroad   
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

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