ctyclsscs Track Fiddler, how did you cut the thick foam so precisely? Jim
Track Fiddler, how did you cut the thick foam so precisely?
Jim
A fine toothed jig saw for the cookie cutter Jim. Razor saws for the risers and the hand cuts.
Thanks Jim
TF
rrebellJust make a 1x4 box base for the foam, adds stabillity and if done with pine,
i'm thinking the layout(?) would be far less than permanent, needs to lay to the side most of the time and would be flipped over often while worked on, tested with just a fews cars and loco
i think adding a 4" box would defeat the above needs. trying to keep things very simple
based on my experience building RC wings, i think the glass fiber tape and thin wood strips would stiffen the panel to prevent sagging. my curent layout is foam glued to 1/4" luan
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Maybe with a bunch of helium baloons you can make it zero G!
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
if just using one two inch foam layer, i would bond some 1/8 or 1/4 inch plywood for a bit of extra strength ..
i used multiple layers [although stringers or narrow strips] bonded to 3/8 plywood with support arms at sixteen inches, with a supporting fascia
gregc building an experimental interim switching layout using spare 8' sheets of blue foam.
I love experimental layout building!
All-foam layouts work, I have seen a few. Two 2 inch thick foam sheets laminated into a 4 inch sheet is remarkably strong, and you can use cheap folding tables as your supports.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Also of note, I used stranded bus line and Posi-Taps to connect power to the track, you can reuse those and change things any time you need to, fairly cheap if bought in bulk or e-bay deal.
Just make a 1x4 box base for the foam, adds stabillity and if done with pine, not much weight and in fact it gets lighter over time because the boards lose moistue. This will allow you to use swich machines if you like. I would use 2'x4' modules and mine I could pick up with one finger when done. You can just bolt the two halves together which is what I did for the whole layout.
Sounds like a good plan Greg I think you'll like the lightness of it. I certainly do. Not only for flipping it on on its side to work on the wiring and things underneath. I plan on taking it to train shows someday when I get older so I have something to do and I won't want anything heavy at that time.
The all foam top only weighs about 10 to 12 lbs.
The quarter inch framed luan top only weighs about 8 to10 pounds. This is an old picture when I had it cantilevered from the wall. I hated that and it's on wheels now. I like this much better as it is much easier to work on.
I am now piecing together foam for my corner mountains. They are removable so I can carve them at the table and will be able to remove them for cleaning track if I ever get that laid
I'm quite slow in my modeling practices but I'm working on it
with plans to move, need to remove existing layout to repaint room and building an experimental interim switching layout using spare 8' sheets of blue foam.
thinking of this more as TOMA (The One Module Approach) where the foam base is not permanently attached to anything, allowing it to be flipped over to conveniently work underneath
when used, it needs to rest evenly on something. may need to add some bracing to keep it flat. packing tape with glass fibers is one thing that works in tension that can be used on the bottom. some thin wood strips on top could prevent compression to prevent sagging
considering bare copper wire for dcc bus and soldering feeders directly to bus.
manual turnouts simplifies things. not thinking much about scenery. i think i can lift and reuse handlaid turnouts from existing layout
assume a dcc connector can be mounted to a thin sheet of wood glued to bottom of the sheet along with anything similar.
imagining building a CpNode using an arduino for other electronic sensors with an rj-12 jack
module could be start of future layout in next house