That's the biggest plus of all.
minimal track maintenance
i used no-ox-id-a special about six years ago ... so far other than vacuming the track once a year, no cleaning has been done... trains still run okay, no stopping at all ..
Hello Overmod. I am Semafores and posted the Original Method on Gleam back in 2006. There are numerous threads and variations about it by other modelers, but the Original method is:
1) Contour a slight arc from inner to outer edges on the railhead using black 400 - grit Wet-or-Dry sandpape, wrapped around a small wood block.
2) Repeat with 600-grit
3) Wipe away the 'spoil' with cotton rag, (T-shirts are good)
4) Burnish the rail following the arc-shape with Stainless Steel to a bright luster. Do the Flange-face of the rails too.Wipe down again.
You're done!
Ever since I thought of, and actually tried this method, the results are in after 14 years.
Application: it takes 8-10 minutes on three foot HO nickel track ( there is no silver in the rail, that's just an adjective)(there is bronze to make it less brittle)
Turn-out; Do point rails Lightly but more passes so they won't be damaged
Longevity: the method is done only once. The shine will dull after a while but not the propertyes of smooth, seamless, and quieter operation.
Maintenance: Occasionally wipe with cotton rag. The masonite pads I feel are on the Abrasive side, dry clean roller pads are preferred.
Polish is Not Needed but is an option.
Semafores
The only thing I use on gleamed rails is the masonite John Allen special. No chemicals.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
After I gleamed my rails, they were cleaned / polished with Flitz Metal Polish. Haven't had to use anything else since.
I did experiment a short section with No-Ox-Id and when running from my newly gleamed / polished rails onto the treated section, it suddenly seemed sluggish. Contact was still good, just not a good contact, almost like there was a slight resistance.
I immediately removed the engine from the layout and cleaned the wheels and test track area so as to avoid spreading the stuff further around the layout. Was not impressed with the result and wasn't about to experiment any further.
The ONLY maintenance (if you would call it that) after months of non-use, is to run my three car masonite pad cars around the layout to remove any dust accumulation. I do not experience ANY oxidation what-so-ever and to not apply ANY kind of cleaners to the rails. Polished and dry works best for me.
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
I have been following the various threads on track gleaming, TOR, and best-methods cleaning, but a recent post has hit a potential snag: the similarity in naming of different products. Is there anyone here who has tested No-Ox-Id, DE-OX-ID, DeoxIT, and Noalox differentially and can comment on which worked best for them?
Note that CAIG makes both a conductivity-aiding contact cleaner/lube and a true 'conductive' grease that can be loaded with copper and graphite particles as well as fine abrasive quartz (they don't specify the grit range).
Since both microarcing and metal oxide formation have been mentioned as issues, it would seem beneficial to reduce the former (especially if factors causing it are 'locally extreme' for any reason), including by gleaming and wheel contact area cleaning; and then taking steps to remove any buildup of crud on the 'improved' surface or enhance conductivity. In the interest of fair disclosure, my opinion is that once properly gleamed (and perhaps any residual pits filled with cuprosilver from a pass with an old silver coin) the track should not need persistent top-dressing to be free from progressive arcing damage, only periodic PM cleaning)