Lastspikemikeor it just wasted effort?
It is not wasted effort if it looks better for the builder, modeler or layout owner. I did notice an improvement over the plastic so I made it standard practice.
When I was with the Federal Government I was often tested for my ability to observe and remember as my security clearences kept increasing over the years. I did quite well in that area and that fact haunts me everytime I enter the trainroom as I notice all the things I need to make better. At least I don't have to look under my Rapido equipment, thanks Jason.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I guess it must be my lighting, the plastic windows look OK to my eye. Most of my structures are close to the edge of my layout so that also makes a difference. The only windows more than 24” from the edge are my roundhouse, yard office and passenger station and they appear as regular windows, day or night setting.
Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Lastspikemike...In photos of prototype taken from a distance you can't see glazing unless there are reflections (that is after all the point of windows) and plastic glass isn't going to provide those....
Actually, plastic "glass" does provide reflections, but in many instances, it's not reflecting prototypically.
Here's one example...
...while this is a bit more acceptable...
...while this one's reflecting the fluorescent lights of the layout room...
I'd say that this view isn't too bad, though...
Wayne
I use Tichy windows with the supplied precut Styrene glazing, .01” thick. I’ve had very good luck with Tichy windows and doors.For windows covering I use City Classics Windows Dressings.
wvg_cawhile the ngineering glass is 5 thou, cover glass can range from 5 to 8 thou depending on manufacturer .. check the listing first, and cover glass is way less expensive then specialty glass ...
The Ngineering glass is also somewhat limited in size so cover glass may be a better option in some cases regardless of price.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
actually the ngineering glass -may- be the same thickness as cover glass ..
while the ngineering glass is 5 thou, cover glass can range from 5 to 8 thou depending on manufacturer .. check the listing first, and cover glass is way less expensive then specialty glass ...
hon30critterNgineering sells glass for that purpose. I believe that it is a bit thinner than microscope slides but I could be wrong.
Dave, I didn't know about Ngineering glass. I have and use their products and will order their glass when I next place an order. Ngineerings glass is a third thinner than cover slips.
I have always used clear plastic sheet from Evergreen for building windows.
However... The folks at Fine Scale Modeler Magazine had an article fairly recently about how to use glass for glazing, and that will be tried on the next building I construct.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
[quote user="wvg_ca"]
more realistic glazing is accomplished by using glass rather than plastic ...
if you want to use glass, microscope slide material [the cover glass] is often used, cut with a carbide scriber ..."
If you want to go that route, Ngineering sells glass for that purpose. I believe that it is a bit thinner than microscope slides but I could be wrong.
Here is the listing: Scroll down.
https://www.ngineering.com/other_detail_stuff.htm
If you need something bigger, here is an example of larger, blank microscope slides:
https://www.homesciencetools.com/microscopes/accessories-slides-kits/slide-making-supplies/
MicroMark sell scribers:
https://www.micromark.com/search?keywords=carbide%20scriber
One project that I used it on was for the cab windows of my HO McKeen Motor Car. They look pretty good if I may say so:
Be aware that it takes a bit of practise to get the glass cut properly. I'd suggest buying some extra glass to experiment with. The best results are achieved by taping the window glass to a perfectly smooth surface like a piece of 1/4" plate glass, and using a metal straight edge to guide the scriber.
I don't think I have ever used the plastic windows as they don't look good and I try to finish the interiors to some degree. I use microscope cover slips, they come in many sizes and if you order the none sterile ones they are really cheap.
Here are two windows, one with the plastic, the other with the slide cover
(on the right).
In a photo like this, had I used the chunky plastic stuff, it would have stood out big time.
if you want to use glass, microscope slide material [the cover glass] is often used, cut with a carbide scriber ...
I always use very thin glazing material. If the kit contains the thick clear plastic, I don't use that at all. The thick plastic just hides whatever is in the interior, and runs counter to what I'm trying to do.
For storefronts, I might decal the glazing with a store name or something like "Sale!". For homes or hotel windows, I like the City Classics window shades or Venetian blinds.
I usually cement my glazing material in with canopy cement, which dries clear.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
When you build a detailed interior for one of your foreground buildings, do you install the plastic glazing material, or do you install the windows without it?