My next project will be building a livery stable and I plan to do it with popsicle sticks and coffee stirrers. Lately my structures have been dusted rather than weathered, meaning the places were rather new. The boom and growth really only started 5 years ago. But the livery stable has been around since the town was still Dilderd's Junction. It only became Rock Ridge when Rock talked the people of the town how it should be re-named after the lumber mill he was going to build.
All that's to say is, I'm going to beat it up a little.
So here's the plan, as I drew it.
I'm thinking I'm going to change the roofline from a 30 degree pitch to a 45 degree pitch. To tell the truth, I was originally going to have it at 45, but when I did the math, it placed the peak off my paper. So rather than start over, I tried it at 30. I think 45 will look better. What do you think?
I haven't decided whether I'm going to build all the stalls or just the front one on the right, There's no way anyone will see the rest of them.
First stop, the mini-table saw to size the lumber.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Chip, To my eye 30 looks better, but the steeper slope of 45 looks at home in snow country.
Regards, Peter
Well, it's not snow country, hmmmm.
Chip, can't go wrong either way
HO-VeloChip, To my eye 30 looks better, but the steeper slope of 45 looks at home in snow country. Regards, Peter
I like the 30 degree slope better personally, but either will look good.
Are you going to have a blacksmith shop (possibly converted to a tack shop if the scene post dates blacksmithing) next door?
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
High-pitched rooflines are more typical of snow country, so consider your locale.
I like some interior detail in structures, but scenes you can't see are just extra work. You might think about whether the building might ever be viewed from another angle.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
hon30critterAre you going to have a blacksmith shop (possibly converted to a tack shop if the scene post dates blacksmithing) next door?
Either next door or across the street. This will be the front of the layout on the industrial street. The frieght house, the retail lumber outlet, and the cattle pens are across the street on the rails. I'm hopiing to get a Bear Wizz Beer brewery if I can make space.
MisterBeasleyI like some interior detail in structures, but scenes you can't see are just extra work. You might think about whether the building might ever be viewed from another angle
Only if I move it, then it will be harder to see in.
I live in South Florida... even 30 degree roofs seem way too extra steep to me.
Looking forward to another of you amazing structures.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
I think the 30-degree roof is sufficiently impressive, slope-wise.
I couldn't help but chuckle when you ran into the oldest problem in the architecture bidness: getting the design to fit the paper.
You might want to watch 'The Music Man' (old version with Robert Preston, not the modern remake with Matthew Broderick). Marcellus Washburn works in the livery stable right across from the tracks.
Good luck.
Robert
LINK to SNSR Blog
Kevin--thanks.
ROBERT PETRICK I think the 30-degree roof is sufficiently impressive, slope-wise. I couldn't help but chuckle when you ran into the oldest problem in the architecture bidness: getting the design to fit the paper. You might want to watch 'The Music Man' (old version with Robert Preston, not the modern remake with Matthew Broderick). Marcellus Washburn works in the livery stable right across from the tracks. Good luck. Robert
I miss my drafting table. One of the things I had to give up when we moved to a smaller house. I'll see how available the Music Man is.
It's settled. I'm going with 30 degrees. Couple interesting things happened today. But wait, let's look at the picture first.
The first thing is I changed the design. Honest John added those three back stalls recently when his business started growing. So, the back isn't full barn, it's an add-on.
That's why the back isn't framed. I have to put on the siding before I can frame the add-on.
I have sort of a strange problem with the horse. I can't glue him to the layout and drop the livery over him because his head loops over the fence to look outside. Anyway, I have to figure it out before I put the hayloft floor, or I'll never get him in. At least that was what I thought as I was wrestling with the problem away from the structure. When I was staining the wood I noticed that even though I built the fence all around where the horse goes, the front and side were wide open because I haven't put the siding on yet.
Speaking of stain, what you see is an experiment. I wanted to try using a burnt umber wash at various strengths, and since no one is going to see the framing anyway, I figured I'd do some good testing. I think I like the thinner was better.
There was a problem though. The artists acrylics I was using was probably 15 years old and was not in great shape. It didn't thin well with water just broke onto clumps that I had to smash up like pancake batter.
But the interesting part is that the wash disolved some of my wood glue bonds. Towards the end, it was coming apart left and right. I think I got all the parts that came loose with CA, but I'm going to have to double-check things before I move on. But I got to thinking, I use vinegar to soften the glue so I can easil scrape it off my glass workspace. I'm wondering if either the pigment or medium is acidic. I've never had a problem before and I've used lots acrylic paints before and never had a problem. I've never tried a diluted wash before.
I something occurs to you spit it out. I may not use it, but I'll lock it away for future use somewhere.
Hi Chip,
The frame looks pretty authentic.
Have you considered staining the wood before assembly? Once the stain is dry it likely won't affect the glue joints, and you won't have any spots where the stain can't soak in because of the glue.
hon30critterHave you considered staining the wood before assembly?
I have now.
Edit, having thought about it, I have done this in the past with things like trim etc. You can't see the pencil marks for cutting with dark paint/stain.
The only wood kit that I have pre-stained was my Campbell Talc Factory. Pre-staining worked out very well for me.
It did not have the roof on it yet when this picture was taken.
SpaceMouseYou can't see the pencil marks for cutting with dark paint/stain.
How about cutting the lumber before staining? That will cover all of the end cuts too. You will need to keep the parts sorted. I would suggest doing a chart showing all the different sized pieces and where they go. Then you can match the stained pieces to the chart before starting assembly.
You may want to do the staining/assembly in stages, i.e. cut the frame members, stain them and then assemble the frame. Then you can use the assembled frame to measure the siding etc....
It will take a bit longer but the staining will be much more even and the fit will be better.
If you are going to paint the building (as opposed to staining) then I would just build it and let the paint cover any marks. As you mentioned, different coloured trim parts, if any, can be added later.
The only reason I stained the interior of my livery is because I wanted to try out the stain using acrylic paint and water. Normally I just spray it down with Dullcote and call it good. If I want to stain another interior (not paint) I'll find a way to make adjustments--like use CA instead of Elmers.
It was an odd experience.
I chose this picture to show progress because it has teeth. Not Dracula or Woldfman teeth, more like Howdy Doody or Mortormer Snerd teeth. It's a Howdiclops. The short right tooth is a horse's nose. That's about all you're going to see of details. You won't see the ladder or the stable fencing.
I spent the morning yesterday working on inconsquential details. You do get to see the boom for the block and tackle. I was mistaken when I thought I had some yellow static grass. I was going to make a few hay bales and decorate the hay loft before I put the roof on. I ordered some. Won't be here until sometime next week. Guess I'll have to do everything through the hay loft door.
By noon, I was done for the day.
Today I framed the roof and put up the siding. If the doors look odd, it's because I haven't trimmed them yet.
Tomorrow I'll frame and side the addition. I'll also build the workbench area and put on the doors. We'll see how far I get. I expect it will be done on Thursday.
Hi again Chip,
I like what you are able to do with simple materials like coffee stirrers.
Chip:
White glue, Elmer's, LePages's, etc are water based, and therefore water soluble. Thats why many of us pur ballast down that way. YELLOW carpenters' glue is not water soluble, therefore better for what you were doing.
hon30critter Hi again Chip, I like what you are able to do with simple materials like coffee stirrers. Dave
Dave--Thanks.
David--I don't think I've ever used white glue on a layout. I use Elmer's Wood Glue--the yellow stuff. But you make a good point about white glue.
So I built the addition. Before I even started I realized I was going to have to plaint the walls first. Actually, I only needed to paint the wall where the additon was going, but I got really involved in it.
I took a bunch of pictures of it, but the lighting was such that the walls looked like they were painted by Matisse working through dry heaves. Luckily, my wife took the thing outside and put on our wheel barrel--standing up against the wall. And she was able to take a pretty passable picture.
Hey look. You can see the hay loft ladder just below the right-most ceiling joist. No one else will ever see it.
Tomorrow I just have to build the workbench area which will be coming off the beam on the right wall. I also didn't get around to building the doors for the front opening and for the hayloft. And of course I have to do the roof. Should finish tomorrow as planned.
SpaceMouse the lighting was such that the walls looked like they were painted by Matisse working through dry heaves.
That is the best descriptive text I have seen in quite some time.
The building is wonderful.
I don't suppose I should tell you that my day job--more like, I hit it pretty hard 3-4 months of the year--is writing. I was actually got advanced degree in writing. I taught it for a while, and wrote a lot of articles as part of my business, but I didn't really get into doing what I wanted to do until 2008 forced me into early retirement.
There was a time when I was quite a good writer.
Then about 15 years ago I took a position that required my to write 100% factual and use no unnecessary adjectives.
My writing became bored and mechanical. I am trying to improve, but it seems all my creative writing juices have fermented and gone sour.
SpaceMouseBefore I even started I realized I was going to have to plaint the walls first. Actually, I only needed to paint the wall where the additon was going, but I got really involved in it.
The contrast between the fresh paint on the addition and the faded paint on the original building is superb! What a neat detail!
Can I make one small suggestion? Your fascia boards are on an angle. In reality, fascia boards are perpendicular to the ground. That is so eavestrough can be mounted on them. Perhaps consider mitering the ends of your roof trusses.
I scratchbuilt a couple of structures with the fascia on an angle before I realized that I couldn't install the eavestrough properly. Even if you don't plan on installing eavestrough, the roof line will look better IMHO. Not a big deal.
By the way, it's probably not worth trying to correct them. I tried to do that on one of my buildings (styrene) and ended up with nine stitches and a permanently numb index finger tip as a result!
SeeYou190 There was a time when I was quite a good writer. Then about 15 years ago I took a position that required my to write 100% factual and use no unnecessary adjectives. My writing became bored and mechanical. I am trying to improve, but it seems all my creative writing juices have fermented and gone sour. -Kevin
If you want to write, and you don't have to by the way, you just start writing. It will come to you as you write and pretty soon you'll be back on track.
Dave--Did they use eavestroughs on barns in the 1890's? That's not the facia, by the way, it's the rim joist. The roof extends another eighth of an inch. I'm thinking since angling it was easier, that's what this guy woud have done.
I'll think about it until tomorrow.
That's right-- Suprise! --I didn't finish. I was going to hang in there 'tll the very end, but I didn't want to rush some of the fun stuff. I have about 3 hours of work time before I have to make my weekly Wally World and other places shopping run.
No picture either. Anything I take will just be a spoiler.
Besides, I'm just burnt out for the day.
See ya tomorrow.
SpaceMouseDave--Did they use eavestroughs on barns in the 1890's?
I'm not certain about barns specifically, but eavestroughs were pretty common at that time. They often fed into a cistern where the water was stored until needed.
SpaceMouseThat's not the facia, by the way, it's the rim joist. The roof extends another eighth of an inch.
Okay, I just learned something about barn construction! I wondered why it was so thick. I know plenty about residential roofing but I've never worked on a barn. I should stick to what I know.
hon30critterOkay, I just learned something about barn construction! I wondered why it was so thick. I know plenty about residential roofing but I've never worked on a barn. I should stick to what I know. Dave
You convinced me. Now I have to figure out what an 1890's eavestrough looks like. I bet I'm going to be sorry I did. The guy would use the water for the horses.
SpaceMouseNow I have to figure out what an 1890's eavestrough looks like.
I suspect that a small town livery stable would have had wooden eavestroughs, maybe with a liner of some sort to reduce the leakage. They could be tricky to make in HO.
I did a Google search of 1890's eavestroughs and I'm not going to duplicate them anytime soon. Most are carved out of a single piece of lumber with a semi-circular channel running down the middle. I decided I wasn't going to figure it out on this particular barn.
SpaceMouseI did a Google search of 1890's eavestroughs and I'm not going to duplicate them anytime soon. Most are carved out of a single piece of lumber with a semi-circular channel running down the middle. I decided I wasn't going to figure it out on this particular barn.
I hear you! I spent some time searching the scale wood suppliers to see if anyone still made 'U' channels in HO scale but I couldn't find anything. The best I could suggest is to glue an 'L' shape of the proper size to a fascia board, but I could see that being a huge exercise in frustration.
Besides, who's going to notice that there aren't any eavestroughs?
Keep the creativity coming!