Photos added to previous post.
Wayne
In most instances, the trick is to make the water "look" deep, rather than be deep. An exception might be something like Mel's pool, with swimmers underwater or at least in the water, or the pond, where you might add fish or underwater details.
Most naturally-occurring bodies of water aren't all that transparent to any appreciable depth, though, so making the water deep, usually with successive pours of clear "water" products, is both costly, and unnecessary.
Most of my layout's bodies of water are rivers, and they consist of a well-supported plywood river-bottom, with an approximately 1/8" coating of Durabond-90 patching plaster. It contains a catalyst which will cause the plaster to set in approximately 90 minutes, regardless of how thick or thin it might have been mixed. There are other versions of Durabond with faster setting times, too, but I prefer the extra working time to create some "motion" to the water's surface, usually using a putty- or drywall knife.Once the plaster has fully cured (I prefer to leave it for a day or perhaps overnight), I use ordinary flat interior latex paint to create the appearance of the water's varying depths.A day or two later, I apply Varathane water-based clear, high-gloss urethane - three coats in the manner specified on the label.
This not only provides the appearance of "wet", but also offers good protection against scratches caused by dust or the placement of tools, materials, and cameras on the surface of the "water". I think the most common item placed on the water by visitors is cameras, and is done with my permission, as the surface stands up well to such treatment.
I would like to offer some photos, but photobucket appears to be unavailable at this time.
EDIT:
Here's the riverbed of the soon-to-be Maitland River (somehow transplanted from flowing into Lake Huron to a location on Lake Erie) before the flood...
...viewed more-or-less at water level, the scene looks similar to what I see when I look out over Lake Erie, with water stretching to the horizon...
...but an aerial view pretty-well blows that illusion...
...and a different location...
...which becomes Chippawa Creek, although not all that similar to its namesake
This is Negro Creek, and much like the real one, not all that visible unless you're aware of it's location...
Its riverbed is a simple depression in the Durabond plaster-on-screen landforms, and the underbrush helps to disguise the fact that the "water" isn't all that level.
This is supposedly a view out over an inlet of Lake Erie...
...but I think it looks at least a little better when viewed from above...
I have one more river to add, but have been putting it off for some time due to the challenge of adding a forest to the mostly too-vertical landscape, as it's a long reach-in (about 4' to the left and over 5' to the right)...
...although the recent acquisition of a topside creeper should help that situation. Both bridges, like all others on the layout, are removeable as one-piece units.
Thanks for the helpful and detailed responses. Including photos makes the effort much more doable. Great work everyone!
Track fiddler Those are some great looking effects Mel, Henry. I hope Wayne chimes in as well. He's some kind of wizard at this sort of thing too. TF
Those are some great looking effects Mel, Henry. I hope Wayne chimes in as well. He's some kind of wizard at this sort of thing too.
TF
Another use for Athearn caboose ladders.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
If you are trying to create a bridge scene, you need negative elevation. This is 5" of foam. The water is no more than 4mm deep. Modge podge.
I don't know what POP is
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
It depends on how deep your looking for. I was looking for an HO pond for my layout that had depth. I went with ¾” center depth using Sculptamold then used several layers of Woodland Scenics Earth colored flocking. Dark in the center tapering to lighter at the shore line. I used Parks Super Glaze for water.If I was to do it again I would add some fish in the pond.The swimming pool deep end is about the same depth as the pond, the water in the pool is Magic Water.
The swimmers are in the last pour.
When working with epoxy keep the pours to less than ⅜” deep and 24 hrs between pours.Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Does it make sense to make lakes, rives, etc. look deep by adding addtional foam underneath the current 2" foam subroadbed? If not, how you make a waterbody look deep and realistic? What colors to use and where/when apply them? Also, is POP sufficient to seal the foam before adding paint, rocks, and the water?
I've read plenty online about making waterbodies and like the cloudy appearance made. One thing I notice is not many carve the water too deep. With 2" of foam, and help here, I have the ability to create some cool looking water.