I use a 50/50 mix of water and Isopropyl alcohol for a wetting agent as it wicks into the ballast instantly. I then apply a 50/50 mix of matte medium and water. I have used both white glue and matte medium on my layout but prefer matt medium as it always dries flat. I have had several ground cover applications messed up because the white glue dried glossy instead of flat (not always but sometimes).
One tip I'd like to share is using contact lens solution bottles to apply your wetting agents and glue mixtures. These bottles give you the control of a pipette but will store enough wetting agent or glue mix to complete an entire project. Most of us know someone that wears contacts. Ask them to save their empty solution bottles for you. Bottles for hard contact solutions tend to be smaller and handier for tight places. Travel size bottles are good for tight spots, too. Most of these bottles have a tip that can be gently pried out/off of the top of the bottle for filling. The tips pop right back in/on and rarely leak, even after several refillings.
Hornblower
dknelsonBack in the old days Model Railroader used to recommend photographer's developing liquid as the wetting agent.
I think you mean Photo Flo, which is still around. It was the last step of the film development process to prevent water marks on the negatives.
One diluted it 1:200 so a 16 oz bottle would make 100 quarts or 25 gallons. That would make it the most cost effective solution you could use.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I use carpenters' glue. I wet with the usual drug store 70% iso and spray it, not dribble it. I then dribble on a rather thin mix of the glue, water, and two drops of detergent. I do sometimes get more of a crust here and there, but it has never affected my results. To soften if a repair is needed, or if you need to alter super-elevation, just pour a wee bit of water, wait-two-three, and then gouge away the ballast.
I prefer the matt medium. White glue will soffen when you go back and use water based scenery ways, matt will not but since good scenery is a layering proccesess, I go matt.
I use isopropyl alcohol straight for wet water. I mix white glue 1:4 with tap water. I apply the alcohol with a pipette and the glue in the old glue bottle I mix it in. Spraying just makes a mess.
I like the other IPA, India Pale Ale, to lubricate myself while ballasting.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
dk, do you use the Scenic Cement as it comes without thinning or modification? I suspect so, but thought it best to ask.
Deane
I also use alcohol as a wetting agent but avoid adding more water - the more alcohol the faster it dries. 70% already has water in it (evn 90% has some); WalMart's very inexpensive isopropyl alcohol is very inexpensive because (I learned once I got it home) it is 50%!
Back in the old days Model Railroader used to recommend photographer's developing liquid as the wetting agent.
I myself use Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement for ballasting. I suspect it is something I could make myself, and cheaper, but it works for me. To apply (both the cement and the wetting agent), I get medicine droppers or plastic needle-less syringes real cheap at an unusual store we have in the Milwaukee area called American Science and Surplus (one is in Chicago too). More control than a pipette.
Dave Nelson
After placing the ballast, I used a "wet water", alcohol and our hard tap water, to wet the ballast, then applied the white glue/water/alcohol solution to set it.
The ballast turned out completely glued, and does not have a crust on the top, and loose ballast underneath.
It still "digs up" easy enough if changes are needed.
Mike.
My You Tube
rrinker Isopropyl and rubbing alcohol are not the same thing - don't use rubbing alcohol. It contains oil - nothing will adhere. It's hard to give someone a rubdown with isopropyl, too. Need the oils.
Isopropyl and rubbing alcohol are not the same thing - don't use rubbing alcohol. It contains oil - nothing will adhere. It's hard to give someone a rubdown with isopropyl, too. Need the oils.
Alton Junction
I had to sections ballasted on my last layout, one with matte medium and one with white glue. I heard no difference in sound. SOme say matte medium is more 'flexible'.
I always use alcohol for wetting. Around here we have hard water, a couple drops of soap in the water doesn;t work, I tried that first, two layouts ago, and all I got was a crust on top because it didn't wet anything but the surface. When I used alcohol, it soaked all the way through.
I dilute the glue with 70% alcohol too. It seems to turn white PVA glue a little bit rubbery, so that could be why it was no different than the matte medium - my white glue didn't dry to a rock hard mass either.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
As much as I loathe starting another thread on ballasting, I am going to do it anyhow.
After a lot of thought and research, I have decided to go with Scenic Express #40 Ballast for my new HO scale layout. This is a departure from my past practice of using Woodland Scenics Medium Ballast.
My unresolved questions are (1) whether to use white glue or matte medium and (2) what to use for a wetting agent. On my prior layouts, I have used a water/matte medium mix (4:1), preceded by a spray of 70% isopropyl alcohol. I am leaning toward this same procedure on my new layout, but I am interested in the pros and cons.
So, two questions.
1. - Why not use isopropyl alcohol as a wetting agent? Is there something better?
2. - Which glue makes more sense and why? White glue or matte medium?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Rich