Hello from Australia :-)
After many years of wanting to build a model railway I have no jumped in and bought the Hornby DCC starter pack and built my first table.
After much research and deciding what I want from my railway I came up with a single loop and a few sidings to switch trains, pick up freight and also a siding at the top of the layout where a train can wait for another train to pass.
i love the North American railways so I'll loosely base it off that.
The double engine house will go to the far right double siding, with a concrete plant in the middle long siding. The siding that comes off the middle one on the middle of the layout will have a passenger station / goods yard connected to it.
The siding on the right is unfinished but I'm thinking about a coal mine that connects to the mountain I want to build.
im planing to build a road that comes from the bottom left and connects up to the possible coal mine and concrete plant.
its fairly basic, but for me creating the scenery will be best part!!
i looked at doing a double loop, but with only a 4x8 space is tight.
What do people think? Any ideas are most welcome :-)
it will be a slow build as it's quite costly here in Australia. The starter set was $350 and the cost of rolling stock is quite expensive unfortunately.
The illustration isn't showing up, so it's hard to comment.
Ed
Oh no! Hopefully this works
" alt="" />
Paul280981 Oh no! Hopefully this works " alt="" />
Uh, nope. You can't use HTML in a Forum post. Please view the thread "How to post a photo to the Forums" at the top of the MR General Discussion Forum before trying again.
--Steven Otte, Model Railroader senior associate editorsotte@kalmbach.com
Last attempt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5MYoq0cexxPbHNUd041MUVCeWs/view?usp=drivesdk
The link pretty much has to end in a picture extension, not an html address. I see you plan on using photobucket. There is an extensive thread on Photobucket here as they have upped their charges for subscribers to post links to another website. If you are not happy paying for that go to Imgur.com
Welcome to the forum, we look forward to seeing your plans. The first 10 posts are moderated to make sure you aren't selling us Russian brides.
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
I took the liberty of inserting the picture from your link by copying it and pasting it into the boy that opens when you click on the icon depicting a mountain and a sun.
Your layout is a typical beginner´s design on a 4 by 8 table. While certainly not a bad start, the design has a few issues, like the passing siding being a bit short any a rather "square" appearance from lining up the track with the benchwork sides.
If you just want to play with trains and make a first venture into learning the skills necessary to build a layout, I´d say go for it! If you want more out of building your layout, I´d suggest to get some typical intro literature, like they are available from our host Kalmbach.
Thank you for your help!
Trying to get the picture up has been a pain to say the least.
Yes the passing siding is a bit short. It probably needs to be extended around the corner.
I had planned to make a more complex layout, but I'm not overly skilled and decided to settle on something a little easier. Unfortunately I've ended up with the dreaded race track oval but hopefully with a mountain and scenery it can blend the track a bit more.
I tried to sell my two cents worth, but no one would give me a plug nickel for it.
I don't have a leg to stand on.
Sir Madog I took the liberty of inserting the picture from your link by copying it and pasting it into the boy that opens when you click on the icon depicting a mountain and a sun. Your layout is a typical beginner´s design on a 4 by 8 table. While certainly not a bad start, the design has a few issues, like the passing siding being a bit short any a rather "square" appearance from lining up the track with the benchwork sides. If you just want to play with trains and make a first venture into learning the skills necessary to build a layout, I´d say go for it! If you want more out of building your layout, I´d suggest to get some typical intro literature, like they are available from our host Kalmbach.
Well there you have it. Some advice I can agree with. Pictures of Ulrich's modeling looks like real life photographs from Switzerland railroad workers.
I would have to back him up. Do a little more research before you dive in. You will thank yourself.
OK, well, I go for what you have. View blocks can make this look bigger. Just look at some MR's project layouts and what they have done. This will help with making things seem "bigger", and your track following the edge of the table syndrome that some don't like.
Ulrich did this on his small but fantastic layout!
It also gives you a chance to learn scenery techniques, changing the landscape on each side of the view block/deviders.
This looks somewhat like my 4'x8', in 1968.
Don't think of your siding as a passing siding, but a place a swicher can work, and be off the main. You could make it longer with curved turnouts.
Go build! and show us your progress!
Mike
My You Tube
Hello Paul,
Check your messages,,, it should help you!
Cheers from Melbourne
Trevor
mbinsewiUlrich did this on his small but fantastic layout!
Since Mike mentioned my little layout, here are a few shots to give you an idea of it.
The layout is nothing but a tail-chaser with a dead-end siding on a 3 by 5ft. "table"
... and here is a more recent picture of it, about halfway through the construction.
From an opersations point of view, the layout is a complete bore, but it was never intended to be more than a sort of stage for my trains, albeit one that looks as realistic as I am able to create with my limited skills and dexterity.
If that's "limited" skills then I may well perpetually run the Plywood Pacific. Small that layout may be, but it looks absolutely fantastic.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker If that's "limited" skills then I may well perpetually run the Plywood Pacific. Small that layout may be, but it looks absolutely fantastic. --Randy
Thanks for the kudos, but there is nothing really special about this layout - no scratchbuilt structure, no hand-made trees, everything either built from kits or bought ready made. No special materials involved - all things sourced from DIY stores or hobby shops. Trees are of the inexpensive "bottle-brush" kind, slightly improved by clipping them to shape, coloring them and sprinkling fine WS Turf over them.
The only really difficult part was painting and weathering the bridge and the chapel.
What really makes the difference is the coherent look of the entire setting, which came from planning the scenery first before fitting the track plan into it.
This was the plan:
To the OP - maybe this is a message for you - develop a vision for the setting of your layout first, than prepare the trrack plan!
For a simple track plan, like this one, using a CAD program to desin the layout may appear as the absolute overkill, but I am a visual guy who needs to see instead of just imagining it.
I would consider putting the siding on one of the end curves. That way it can be used as a runaround track for the industrial spurs on either side of the layout. As it is, you can only switch the spurs on the lower end while traveling in a clockwise direction unless you want to go all away around to the other side to do the runaround move. It looks like your end curves are 22" radius so you could either use 18" radius sectional track or flex track to put a siding inside on of those end curves. That later would be my choice to create a 20" radius siding. You could put the turnouts into the siding on the straight sections if you don't want to go with a curved turnout.
If I were to build a 4x8, I would consider putting a two sided backdrop down the middle length wise to create the illusion the railroad runs between two destinations rather than just going around in a circle. Each side of the view block could represent a different town.
Wow!!
that is amazing and something that I'm aiming to achieve long term. The idea of the tunnel and hiding the track to give the illusion of depth I something I'd like to achieve.
I'm still trying to figure out how to post pictures on the forum but once I do I can post up the track plan.
Its basically a two loop oval with two sidings. One on each side of the inner loops. Nothing exciting but room for Walthers Sugar Rifining kit on the left, Walthers Railway Express Agency building to the right and a two loco engine shed on a far right siding with room for a water and coal tower.
So finally figured out how to post images!
Basically I could not justify paying nearly $75AU for the fill version of any rail so I did it over two files.
I made the inner loop come in a bit to break up the race tack look, but also to allow the tunnel to be extended on the outer loop and plant trees between the two lines - if that makes sense!
I've watched a tonne of videos and still want to base it loosely of the Norfolk Western / Nickleplate lines.
Eventually I'd love the Bachmann Berkshire loco and I really like the GE ac6000 locos - even though they ate from 2 completely different time periods!
I would not let the time period bother you too much as long as you are using older equipment on a newer period For example I run a occasional 0-6-0 excursion on my layout set loosely in the early 80's but would not run an HHP as it wiuld look out of place.
Joe Staten Island West
Paul280981Basically I could not justify paying nearly $75AU for the fill version of any rail so I did it over two files.
You could do the whole layout in XTrakCad or SCARM, both are free.
The jog-in of the inner loop creates potentially troublesome s-curves at what looks like your minimum radius.
Operationally, you might find it more interesting to have the two spurs of the inner loop branch in opposite directions so that there is some variety in switching movements.
Good luck with your layout.
Byron
Layout Design GalleryLayout Design Special Interest Group
Paul280981
The reverse curve effect will be pronounced for the top right turnout/point and the front/bottom crossovers. Could I suggest that the top one become a Right Hand point and that it replaces the small curve.
If you are using Hornby points or radius 1 curves for the inner track, the reverse effect will inhibit the Berkshire or AC44 and you will get a lot of derailing for the movement across them.
I am not sure how to post pics on this site but I suggest you reverse the turouts so on the inner track, the order from left to right would be
LH turnout - LH turnout - RH turnout
while the outer track would be
RH turnout - LH turnout so that the turnouts become part of the curve.
That should ease any problems with bigger locos getting around your curves.
Sing out if you need a drawing to clarify,
Cheers
Hello Trevor. Thankyou so much for your help! Can you please supply a drawing? It would be of great assistance :-) I haven't bought any siding track yet.
im thinking I might do away with the "S" curve for the inner track.
I've slightly edited my layout. I decided to get rid of the "S" curves and just flatten them out.
I looked at where my points are located too. Both trains will be going clockwise I think because it works in well with my sidings. Trains backing into either of the two sidings will have 335mm after backing up from the r607 turns.
on the lower siding the first piece of track in the Hornby r628 which then has a right turnout into the engine houses. I've edited that by pacing a piece of straight track to allow the bigger locos to straighten up before backing in.
i think should allow my bigger locos to get around?
I have sent you the diagram as you asked for. Did you read the article I sent you the link to? The basis of the layout was to use set track curves as you have but Peco flex track for the straight section along with Peco points. The Peco small radius points are approx 600mm radius as distinct from the Hornby points which are sharper than 400mm and will not be helpful to running bigger locos eventually when you get a couple! Also you can slightly offset the "straight sections" so that the track does not look so geometric- in fact by putting in a very long curve instead of a straight, the layout will visually look bigger. The flex track will also work out cheaper as well!
I have been rebuilding my own layout with set track curves as the track has been recycled a few times and the old flex track finally started to get to be a maintenance issue. Using mixtures of set track curves and nothing less than second radius, I was able to mimic the types of curve I had with flex track. If you check out my website, (www.xdford.digitalzones.com) the "S" curve at the back was a must have for me and many people find it hard to believe from photos that the layout is as small as it is... However it is your railway and you are free to cherry pick all the advice you get here to best suit you!
Hello Trevor,
I did look at Peck and that track does seem to be the most realistic and best available for any layout.
I just bought a few Hornby turnouts yesterday though! I went with hornby because that's what my starter pack was, and also.after looking online the Peco turnouts appear to need excess wiring and the use of insule frogs which for a novice like me looked very complex
I found a fellow Australian who runs the big GE AC6000 over Hornby points. So hopefully I'll be OK!
I do like the flex track though
This forum has a wealth of information which has been - and will continue to be extremely helpful.that I'm greatful for.