I have finished my FSM ore ramp and decided to just lay flex track on it rather than just the rails (tied of rails coming loose over time). Just looking for sugestions on the glue to be used, was thinking just white glue as water can fix any extra glue, area is only about 10" long.
White glue or adhesive caulk -- HOWEVER those are rather permanent methods of laying track, and should you ever move or want to change your layout you are going to want to preserve that FSM structure and may not want to be tied down to the flex track that you fastened to the wood.
Thus I would strongly consider some removable/"second chance" method. Perhaps some of these lightly tacky glues such as are used to fasten figures to layouts (but make them totally removable) would be strong enough to hold the track in place but make it readily pulled up. Perhaps some strategic spikes or small wood screws into the wood would provide just enough holding power. Or some combo of a few spikes or wood screws plus lightly tacky glue.
Again my suggestions are all based on thinking ahead to removing the track while preserving the structure.
Dave Nelson
Rrebell,
I agree with Dave Nelson's way of thinking and in those types of circumstance's I use #0 round head wood screws, which also work in plastic. On My double track swing bridge I use them to hold the Bridge track in place two on each end and one in the middle, bridge is 22'' long, works flawlessly. I use them for fastening buildings to the layout, removeable interiors, ground throws, You name it. Everything on My layout, is removeable. These are what I use now, was using the same kind from Perfect, but have become hard to find.
http://cir-kitconcepts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=166
Take Care!
Frank
Just got back ability to reply. The idea of screws would have been better before the structure was built, would have added an extra peice of wood. Still may be able to do it though.
rrebellJust looking for sugestions on the glue to be used
"I just acquired the Mona Lisa. What would be the best glue to attach a moustache to her upper lip?"
Sorry, but this just makes no sense to me at all. Why would you put all that effort into building something as nice as a FSM kit and then glue flextrack to it?
You'll thank yourself in the long run if you just attach the rail like the kit maker expects. It'll end up as a much better looking model. Use the "goo and soldering iron" technique like is used to hold rail to wooden trestles. It's been discussed here before.
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Carl, a Sharpie would be easier for the mustache...
rrebell, I would go with the screws idea, with a slight twist. (Yes, pun intended!)
What it really important is alignment, not holding power. Small pins through pre-drilled pin holes will maintain proper alignment, while remaining all but invisible when removed. You could even make you own pins, from fine gauge piano wire, just make a tight fit, and maybe just a drop of glue on the top to hold in place, very easy to hide, whether left in place, or removed later on.
Another option would be the smallest rail spikes available, then you could do stripped rail, with just a couple small spikes to maintain alignment inside the building. Again, much easier to hide the small holes than to fix a glue mess later on if it gets moved.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
Rrebll,
With the new suggestions....why not go whole hog and use this type of adhesive for the rail and their ''Ultimate tie plates'' no need for a soldering iron. Something to think about.
http://www.proto87.com/product2244.html
I would use Hob-E-Tac or equivalent for the moustache!
i like Shoe Goo. It adheres well and remains somewhat flexible but not rubbery like silicone. (It's very handy around the house and pool for repairs. I've used it for insulating and repairing abraided wire).
but more importantly, you just need to glue a few spots (you don't nail every tie, do you). You can use a razor blade if you need to remove it.
greg - Philadelphia & Reading / Reading
Just got back from vacation. Yes, I understand about doing thing the way that looks the best but since the trackwork is somewhat hidden in the building and this being an operating building, a lot of the structures were built or kitbashed to fit this layout and the layout is modular so who knows if I will ever care if the building is removable. Last the kit in question is easy to build and a replacement is less than $100, in fact I looked for this kit already build but never found it except for a dio. The track I am using is Shinohara code 70, so it is not like I am plunking down Atlas code 100 (not to say there is anything wrong with that track, just looks too bulky.
rrebellThe track I am using is Shinohara code 70, so it is not like I am plunking down Atlas code 100 (not to say there is anything wrong with that track, just looks too bulky.
How about bridge flex so you at least get full thickness ties? It is available in code 70.
Don't need the double rail though.
rrebellDon't need the double rail though.
The guard rails come in the package unattached. You don't have to use them.
carl425 rrebell Don't need the double rail though. The guard rails come in the package unattached. You don't have to use them.
rrebell Don't need the double rail though.
rrebellNot with Shinohara code 70.
I was thinking Micro Engineering.