Long and short of it is we have no room in the house to build a layout. Garage is off limits as I build my cars there and welding/grinding/bodywork/paint/engine overhauls are not giving away to a layout!
I would guess his room is 12*12 or 10*12 and she has mentioned making a loft bed for him. I was going to get some half shelve units and would have 2 on one wall and 3 down the other with another on the same wall his bed is on.
This gave me an idea at least for the larger grouping to be able to build a shelf type layout on that side. A ceiling loop is more or less out due to ceiling being sloped to outside walls. Now having a loft bed would clear additional room as well.
Do not want a 4*8 and no good space to put one. Was thinking of making some type of hopefully larger diameter loop under bed area with some switching industries on the longer branch that would for from bed across doorway and over the the half book shelves and maybe end in a roundhouse with turntable.
Mostly thinking out loud but I am decently handy to do such a thing. Looking more for thoughts and opinions. It would be nothing exotic nor detailed to the nines due to my son is 6 and his little bro is 3(they both love trains). My older boy is definitely good with his stuff and has his own P2K U25B with sound. He has also handled all of my engines/rolling stock with the exception of my UP turbine and FEF-2. He can set up the phone to run at the club with JMRI just about on his own and is about there using the Zephyr on our glorified test track.
Like I said I was thinking out loud and seeing what some folks thing or what they might do. HO is mandatory, while I wouldn't mind N, I get more than frustrated dealing with small pieces in HO and we already have a sizeable investment as well as belong to a club where we run at when I am off of work.
The hardest part would be to do it and yet make running passenger cars and steam engines pleasible. He likes UP just like me and thinks Challengers, Big Boys, turbine and the double engine diesels are awesome. So larger radius curves are a sticking point.
Thanks for ideas in advance.
Your dilemna is one most of us old timers have fought with.......
In my case, moving frequently always meant that there was a house with a layout room in my future, which kept me placated while I made models for future use.
If there isn't a new place in your future, you might want to try an "around the room" shelf layout. If you bridge the door opening with a lift out section, it could be continuous running. If not, you could have an industrial switching or a lengthened loco terminal.
Yes, its all pretty frustrating, and as I said, many of us have been there.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I have a similar sized room and I have an HO shelf layout running around the room with a liftout across the door. The shelves are 12-16". I also like full sized passenger cars and big UP locomotives. To get the maximum radius curves I run the track at the back of the straignt section and on the front in the corners. It works.
The track is 50" inches off the floor so there is room for a small desk and a couple of bookshelves under the layout. When the grandkids come we move the desk out and put a couple of twin size blowup beds on the floor. They think it is the neatest room in the house!
Around the wall shelf style will be hard to do.
One corner walll has closet door and another one has the room door. Also has a large and low window. Dresser situation does not help any......
On the other hand, I can suspend belief for lift out sections by the doors as long as I make them bulletproff functionality wise.
Hmmm... wish I could get some time to figure out some of the layout planning stuff, would help me to show u guys/gals the whole room.
South plains district?
http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/2485/IMG_22031.jpg
I'm not sure how high of a loft bed you were planning, but maybe just raising the bed so that there's 3 or 4 feet of space under it would give you room to roll a layout under there. It would be more of a roundy-round than shelf, but there are creative ways to disguise an oval trackplan, such as a scenic divider.
Steve S
A friend made a bed that was something like this. It had two rows of drawers on the bottom which made the bottom bunk waste high for his young kid, the whole thing was ten feet long. This allowed for a table at the end of the bed up top for things like a lamp, clock and a place to put your book and other junk down. The lower part was for the MRR. The layout was 4' 6" x 10'.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Measured the room best possible with what was in the way lol
10' 6" wide and 12' 4" long, not perfect measurments but rough ones. Main door opening is 33 inches with trim, closet door is 31.5 with trim. Half bookcases I was going to be getting should measure in about 42-43inch tall. Assuming I build on some pine and use styrfoam as base over that 48 inch range for the layout level. Above level also clears the dresser that I don't think mom would let us get rid of lol.
Now to figure out how to do the bed issue..... Hmmmmm. I could go over existing, probably not best idea, but going under would mean it being high up.
I'm going to change my sig to train lover, father and idiot We both get a kick out of large engines though, so I'm kind of stuck at needing larger radius curves!
Choops South plains district? http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/2485/IMG_22031.jpg
I do like some of the ideas in there and keeping a main line run thru it would give us our loop well.
Not sure how much I can go out and 18 inches starts to creep into the room, but I will keep going on ideas and talking out loud since this won't be happening for a mth or two.
I want some operations as I do find it enjoyable from time to time and he has done it with me at our club we attend as well. I do need to keep a main loop as we like to run stuff too.
I think too many people envision a layout as some kind of loop arrangement. Having recently been bitten by the operations bug, I would recommend some form of a lengthened "timesaver" shelf layout along one, or possibly two walls of the room. This way the layout can function as both a model and a game. You don't have to start out with a complicated operating scheme but a few industries with approriate freight cars (with car cards--think of them as game pieces) and a small and slow switching loco would make the layout fun and challenging for the kids (and adults) to operate. Add some sort of timer and you get a new challenge. Add more industries and even more challenges keep interest in the layout. Best of all, the "timesaver" style layout keeps both the benchwork (in this case basic shelving 12 to 18 inches deep) and the trackwork simple. A few structure flats against the wall(s) and some smaller structures along and between the tracks and you have a fully functional layout. Just make sure the layout height allows easy access for all of the kids in your household. I would recommend about armpit height for the shortest child.
Look up "timesaver" layouts if you don't already know what I'm describing.
Hornblower
hornblower I think too many people envision a layout as some kind of loop arrangement. Having recently been bitten by the operations bug, I would recommend some form of a lengthened "timesaver" shelf layout along one, or possibly two walls of the room. This way the layout can function as both a model and a game. You don't have to start out with a complicated operating scheme but a few industries with approriate freight cars (with car cards--think of them as game pieces) and a small and slow switching loco would make the layout fun and challenging for the kids (and adults) to operate. Add some sort of timer and you get a new challenge. Add more industries and even more challenges keep interest in the layout. Best of all, the "timesaver" style layout keeps both the benchwork (in this case basic shelving 12 to 18 inches deep) and the trackwork simple. A few structure flats against the wall(s) and some smaller structures along and between the tracks and you have a fully functional layout. Just make sure the layout height allows easy access for all of the kids in your household. I would recommend about armpit height for the shortest child. Look up "timesaver" layouts if you don't already know what I'm describing.
Around the room lets me keep a loop, we both like to run stuff and that would be as long as it gets.
Completely intend to make some switching sections and what I can manage to fit in as a yard without encroaching upon his room.
Habing issues trying to get SCRAM to work as I am completely unfamiliar with it and am working 12/14 nights again 12 hrs at a time. Might try and get some better measurements before work tonight.
Around the room will require 2 lift out sections. One for entry and one for the closet. That will be a requirement or mom will kill me lol
"A friend made a bed that was something like this. It had two rows of drawers on the bottom which made the bottom bunk waste high for his young kid, the whole thing was ten feet long. This allowed for a table at the end of the bed up top for things like a lamp, clock and a place to put your book and other junk down. The lower part was for the MRR. The layout was 4' 6" x 10'."
That is a cool idea. My son would love that... thanks for planting the seed of an idea!
Steve Hunter
I make 2x4 ft. modules. They are easy to make and move around as needed. They can even start as a diarama. I do not have space or many power tools any more so I take the plans to home depot and have them cut all the wood and just assemble at home. The big advantage is the standard size and I can configure them many ways. An example to look at would something like the Beer Line in MRR. It also allows for easy expansion as needed. My current layout is something like the Oklahoma & Western RR from one of the 2008 issues. My office were everything is setup is a 10x10 room with layout, desk, file cabinets, a dresser and a large rolling toolbox.
Loop for constant running will be a requirement.
I am going to do really try and work operations in as well as possible industry wise and see what I can come up with.
Downloaded SCARM, so I am going to try and learn how to use it and one of these days soon I need to take accurate measurements in the room for door access and bed clearance,etc. Then I can at least get basic dimensions in SCARM at that point(once i figure it out)
Worst thing will be to figure out configuration of base loop and bridge placement since I will need one for the access door and one for the closet door.
If anyone has some good links to SCRAM for idiots it would be appreciated :-)
I am off the next two nights, so come on 4:30AM Wedns. I will get some exact room measurements and include all doors, windows, bed, etc.
Then I will try and get a track plan started and have you guys beat my brains out so we get an awesome product in the end lol
Now I am asking for some help, I have some ideas, but haven't even figured out how to put the basic room into SCRAM.... I get 2 nights off every 14 days since end of March(it lets me pay for this stuff with no tome to do it lol) This will be HO scale.
I have some room measurements so maybe someone can make a quickie room shot and contribute their ideas while I try and figure out SCARM in my free moments.
Looking into the room from the door, it is 12'4" long and 10'6" wide.
The door/frame opening is 42" off the wall from the right and door itslf would need 29 inches to clear the opening on right wall(looking in from door). Same wall also has the light switch located 40.5" from the wall the door is located on. Constrain here is the bed located in the corner that is 84" long(will be changing because I will be getting my old bed which is 6" longer than standard)
Looking in from the door, to the left is 84" wall for the 126 total run on the door entrance side of the room.
Rear wall is 45" (looking from entrance to rear wall)from the corner to a large window which is 50"wide including trim and 31" from windo trim to the wall. Part of the wall on the 45" section needs 31" clearance from the corner to make the closet door functional(cannot be given up). Also there is a dresser that covers the lwer part of the window and part of the 45" space to the left of the window.
Left wall viewed from the door is total of 12'4" long and has a closet located 38" off the rear wall(includes trim).
Looking in, to the left will be two book cases(short half style) and the same along the left wall, but three half book cases will fit there. Height will need to be 44" to clear those as they are needed.
These are not perfect yet, but pretty close, I had a 6 yr old assistant and they have trashed my tape measure so it doesn't lock.... 25 footer is in the garage.
Closet door and entry door will have to be removeable bridges as it has to be functional. Left of entry door to closet door can be 18" pretty easy as bookcases should be 15" deep or so already and 18" from corners should give me 30" radius curves easily. On the straight sections is should offer us some storage/yard options as well.
Right wall will need to hug the wall as close and minimum space as possible as it will offer vertical clearance above the bed but I want to minimize intrusion there with exception of keeping a 30" radius curve thru the corner.
Rear wall(looking in) will be limited by headboard area, but I figure some extra could be spared there if need if someone has ideas that would fit in the window area above the dresser. This would be short as it will have to curve towards the bridge for closet door access.
I guess that is about enough to make my head explode. My time is limited severely so I am trying to do planning and designing now and get inout from folks smarter than I in design to make the most of what we have. We need one loop as we both want to see continuous running, but want a couple industries(flat building ahoy on this one) with some switching and was thinking some type of yard arrangement on the sections that could be larger to the left and down the long wall run.
Thanks for reading all that, I hope it is coherent
[quote user="JEREMY CENTANNI"]Closet door and entry door will have to be removeable bridges as it has to be functional.
Are these bifold doors? One possibility, that might sound radical, is to construct the mainline track (nothing more) into the closet, angling it to the back wall, even if it means going thru a wall or two. If there will be clothes hanging in front, simply protect the trains with some sort of barrier. Afterall, this section will be "hidden" (maybe a tunnel?). That way, you won't need a removeable bridge section.
Stick with 30" or bigger radii if you can. Your big equipment will look better.
Mike
LION was a cub once. him had a 4x8 in the bedroom of him. It was against the wall, but I could pull it out to work on the far side.
LION eventually sold those trains (him should never had done so) an bought a printing press instead. Him bought more train when him was in the Navy, and then when him moved in with parents again for a time dad got wise to me, and limited me to some book shelf tops in the basement. About 10' a 90 degree turn and then another 9' feet. On the ong edge I built a four track passenger terminal, with a single track on the curve and two tracks on the short end.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Sometimes just building some car/structure models will be a big boost for that future layout - while giving you stuff to keep those MR genes occupied.
Nah, we're going to be doing this!
I am working an immense amount of hours until the end of the month. I need to figure out SCARM so I can get into exactly what I can and cannot pull off in the space provided with a little more certainty.
Also as soon as my next off day, they 6 yr old will be building a P2k gondola kit with me, so I will see whare his skills land.
I plan on teaching him every bit along the way from benchwork and wiring to the scenery. He also has a 3 yr old sidekick, who I am 100% positive will be right there as well
I just need to get the plan together, so when it comes time to do benchwork I can start rolling. In my head I have it about 85% figured out and keeping the room useable as well.